Hi. Prior to the car restoration all the power windows worked. Unfortunately now nothing works.I’ve checked the fuses located under the steering wheel and loose wire at the switches. Does anyone have any guidance ? Is there another fuse I should be looking for ?
Any help is appreciated
Kes,
Welcome to Jag-Lovers. The usual reason for window problems the the Series III cars is tarnish or dirt on the window switch contacts due to disuse. The usual remedy is disassembly of the switches, cleaning the contacts, and reassembly. I have done this dozens of times over the past 20 years on my SIII XJ6s and XJ12. I know that the Series 2 cars have different switches but the principle is the same.
If you search the Jag-Lovers archives you will see that window switch problems come up all the time.
Paul
Kes,
away from home I don’t have a wiring pattern available, but I seem to remember there are thermal breakers in the circuit, triggered by an overly high mechanical load. Are the windows moving freely in the felt channels? Are the winder mimics installed correctly?
Good luck
Jochen
75 XJ6L 4.2 auto (UK spec)
Thanks for the advice. The windows all worked until recently although slow compared to modern cars. I’ll recheck the fuses again as i find it unusual that none of the switches work.
Kes,
How long did the restoration take and was the car protected from moisture the whole time?
Paul
I agree. I’d check for power at the switches (in the console) and at the thermal breaker (on S1s it’s located behind the left footwell kick panel trim, at least for LHD cars).
Embarrassing question to ask but what actua fuse protects the window motors ? I’ve visually checked the box above the footwell… They all look ok
As mentioned above, I believe they are protected by thermal circuit breakers, not fuses. IMHO.
There is a window kill button (switch) on the consol. Was this tripped by accident?
Phillip
Kes,
Attached is a picture of the two Electric Window Thermal Cut-Outs (C44001)
, circled in red, in my 1987 XJ6 parts car. In the LHD Series III XJs they are located outboard of the fuse box beneath the glove box. Removal of the underscuttle is required to access them. They are easy enough to test with a multimeter as they are normally closed. They open when they overheat and then close again when they cool. They are very reliable, much more reliable than the window switches which in my experience require occassional disassembly and contact cleaning to keep them working properly in my Series III saloons.
Paul
1 Like
Thank you … the help is much appreciated
Thank you Robert
I’ll be tackling this problem on the weekend… 
Regards
Kerry
Please excuse any brevity and/or typos in this message as it was sent from my iPhone.
I did try that but the switch is broken so I connected the two wires. I’m assuming that wouldn’t cause my issue ??
Regards
Kerry
Please excuse any brevity and/or typos in this message as it was sent from my iPhone.
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It sure could, Kerry - but have you checked the ‘master switch’ as Phillip mention…?
The layout is rather complicated, it both prevents conflicting operation by passengers - and restricts simultaneous operation of several windows…
Permanent connection of wires defeats the purpose of the lay-out - but actual results depends on which wires were connected…
Thermal fuses/circuit breakers are used, and cut power under overload - either as a window’s movement is restricted by frame friction, or two or more motors are activated at the same time. Resetting of the breakers takes some time - and they will break again if the load is permanent…
Since the windows did not work at all after the restoration; was the window wiring and or windows involved? Ie, disconnections may not have been properly reconnected.
Dirty switches may require cleaning, as Paul says - and as he also points out; ensuring free glass movement and correct alignment,. And indeed
A crude start is to check if windows move when power is applied to the motors. Sorting out whether problem is mechanical or electric - might be a long row to hoe…
But restore that switch operation - or a least don’t connect two wires permanently…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
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Hello, I am new here and am new to owning my jaguar xj6 series 2.
I am also currently trying to fix my windows and don’t know where to look next. I have read all of the responses and they have been helpful. Both of the circuit breakers have power, but my switches are not getting any power. Where should I be looking for problems next?
Thanks, Jacob
Hi Jacob,
Both spades of the thermal circuit breakers must have 12v.
If you see 12v only in one side it means they are broken.
Try to short circuit them to see if it makes any difference.
Aristides
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After power verified through the circuit breakers as prescribed by Aristides, Jacob - verify that there is also power through the windows’ master switch…
It is strongly advised that a test lamp is used to verify that power is passing - a multimeter may register voltage even if connections are to dirty to pass adequate current.
If there is no reaction to any switch operation, including ‘local’ ones; it strongly suggests that there is no power reaching any switches - it would be unusual that all switches are too dirty to operate. With stuck windows, but power generally available, one would expect some window reaction before the thermal fuses cuts out due to overload by stalled motors…
However; the window switches also provides ground for the motors, and wiring is further complicated by having to avoid conflict between the central and local switches…
It would be unusual for motor failures - but at some stage access to motors may be required for power checks and possible jumpwiring.
Concentrating on getting one window working by switch operation - checking for power and connections at the switch, may be productive…?
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
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