Series 3 cylinder head removal

Hi All
I am new to the forum and hope you guys can help

I have a series 3 E type which has recently started to overheat and I suspect a head gasket has failed.
I plan to remove the cylinder heads and need the necessary tools to do this.

I have a machine shop so can easily make these but need some dimensioned drawings of these parts


Can anyone help with drawings please ?



@Dick_Maury may have to hand the dimensions you need, or @Jeff_Schroeder.

You can borrow the actual factory tools from the Coventry Foundation if you are a Patron or a JCNA member for the cost of postage. You can then get the accurate measurements from the actual tools.


Hi Dick

I should have added in the post, I am in the UK


No problem, I do not recommend using the JD40 unless you are on a low mileage/fairly new tensioner. That tool pulls the tensioner straight until it resets. The tensioner usually snaps when this is done. The small plates that hook the cam wheel studs over the brackets work fine and the tensioner is undisturbed.

Try LLynn on this forum

C3993 should be available from the usuals,

If heads have never been off before, imo mostly what you will need to make is a head puller, here is dimensions of mine:
Here is pic of it in action:

If chain tensioner is original and not broken it will be about to break and will break if you breath on it. After you have seen inside and realised you need to totally refurbish everything, do not remove the timing chain guides (dampers) until you have thoroughly match-marked so that you can reassemble without a JD.38 (chain damper setting jig).

JD 40, JD.42, 42-1: can be simplified, easy to figure out what is req’d by measuring, here is pic of mine:

JD.42-2: Pretty much any screwdriver will do
C3993: Buy from SNGB.

The tensioner is around 8 years old and has done approx 5000 miles, any thoughts ?

Thanks All for your input



Anything over a few months old that has been heat cycled is in danger of cracking in two. The tensioner is plastic and forms an arc when released. The tool pulls it somewhat straighter until it latches into place. You might be lucky. The part is rather expensive and the front of the engine has to come apart to replace it. Why not use the two forks and the JD40 tools as pictured in the picture above? That way the tensioner doe not need to change it’s arc at all. Never have broken one doing the job this way but almost always snap them using the other method. Shop manuals are made for fairly new cars doing warranty work. The procedures are written accordingly.

1 Like

your method sound like the best way to go - thanks