Swapping ser3 tanks into my ser2 car. External single fuel pump. The main 1/2” supply hose from the tanks have a short metal pipe to bridge the muffler bay. Two hose clamps, a very short piece of hose to connect the pipe to the tank main outlet, and its in a tiny gap between the body and tank. I can fit it all in there but seems less than desirable with potential for leaks and chafing. Has any one had problems just running a single hose to the main outlet from the fuel manifold in the trunk? A piece of heat wrap in order in the muffler area. Damn fiddly jags! 
Also, the holes in the ser2 body are positioned for the early FI ser2 tanks with the return port being rear of the supply, the forward hole lines up fair with the main supply line, but the hole for the return being rearward of that, necessitates the hose now being run up and over the supply line, making an uncomfortable bend to the rear hole in the body. Then, the return hose has to cross over the supply steel line to enter forward, the hole in the trunk, as the 1/2" steel line is bent so as to be hard against the rear of the trunk hole. So, I see a rework coming here but maybe some of you guys that have been here already can offer better suggestions?
When I did this job I kept the original configuration.
Hose under the muffler didn’t seam like a good idea.
If you use good hoses and proper fuel hose clamps, not those horrible worm clamps, the potential for leaks is very minimal.
Uncomfortable indeed…!
I would rather make a new and correctly placed hole on the body.
And you want the rubber grommets to seal properly to keep potential odours out of the trunk.
Aristides, from what I can tell on my series 3 car, the return looks like it goes forward from the tank through the rear fender well and over the muffler near the rear cage and into the car near the main fuel line at the front wall of the trunk. There, connecting to a vent manifold/valve. Am I seeing this correctly?
My biggest fear with these cars is the vent circuit. A stuck fuel valve can cause fuel to back up and fill the vacuum canister to overflowing. I marginally got it solved on the series 3 at one point, but have seen the video of the freshly restored XJC parked and on fire at the passenger front fender well. No mistake what caused this, the car was a total loss. After a few hundred dollars spent on new lucas fuel valves I just don’t trust them.
No mistake as to the fuel source but I have to wonder what the source of ignition was?
Cheers
DD
With my series 3, I walked by the car one day and got a big whiff of raw fuel from several feet away! Smell lead straight to the pass side front fender where fuel was pouring out, car turned off. Hot day too, fumes everywhere, wouldn’t take much to explode.
That time I traced it to a leaky changeover valve. Next time it was the check valve in the air bleed valve. Also anytime a return valve misbehaved I ended up with fuel dripping from the front fender. Got tired of my daughter coming home from school smelling like fuel.
After trying cleaning and flushing some of the valves I sprung for all new changeover, return valves and a new bleed valve (I think that’s what its called). Still had smell from the C pillars, car is static now. I use it for reference, nice interior.
Aristides, would you have a link to the hose clamps you’re referring to? I’ve tried parts house FI clamps but not really happy with those either. These worm clamps are orig jag and do seem better at least than the parts house worm type or FI clamps with the rolled edge, and they have a rolled edge like FI clamps. I would love better at whatever cost.
You don’t have to follow the original routing, just find what is the easiest and straightest way to bring the hose where you want it, make a hole and fit a sealing grommet.
The hose clamps I used:
They don’t have to be something fancy, but the worm clamps bite on the hose and they also don’t put uniform pressure.
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Just a link for future researchers, these fittings are very hard to find but often needed for jag fuel tanks.