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You need to do the second step as well, Tony; verifying that the pump also runs with the ign key to ‘crank’…
Have you checked sparks - and tried running on the other tank? (Important)
Connect a spare spark plug, triple gapped, to any plug lead, ensure that the plug metal is in good contact with engine metal. Crank engine while observing the spark - if no or yellow, weak, spark you may have an ignition problem…to be pursued…
If/when you get the engine running; observe hot idle rpms; it should be 800, or more, in neutral - and some 1200/1400 when cold…
How log time was the car standing while you were in the shop, and what was air temp? And remember ‘feet off’ starting - if you touch the gas pedal the engine may baulk. However, it is permissible with a crank non-start to floor the pedal while cranking - to ‘un-confuse’ the ECU…
Well Frank I’ve just run through a couple of checks again and now the fuel pump doesn’t come on when in drive or reverse but will run when I open the air flap
Hi Frank I’ve just run a few checks again and now I am not getting the fuel pump to run when in drive or reverse , when cranking the engine it seems like she wants to fire up but doesn’t
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Which means that there is no fuel delivered while cranking, Tony - which certainly won’t encourage starting…
Suggestions; remove fuel relay and short socket white to white/green. The pump should now run whenever ignition is ‘on’ (and in ‘crank’) - try starting.
If stating is as it should be; put relay back and disconnect thermotime plug. Connect a test lamp between plug white/yellow - and repeat the crank in gear test. The test lamp should light with key to ‘crank’…
If so; the fault is likely the ‘red’ diode pack - one of the diodes has failed. Replace diode pack and see what happens - testing it is possible, but may be inconclusive…
In the meantime; driving with the relay socket jumped is perfectly OK as an interim solution. But it removes one of the safety features…
Well I had a surprise today Frank I just got in the car and turned it over without any foot on the gas and she fired up amediatley she ran for about 20 seconds and then died out , this lends me to believe it’s a fuel problem , I was wrong to say the pump wasn’t working in drive as I forgot you had to turn the key all the way to hear it wich it does is there anything I can disconnect ie like the thermodine switch or anything else as there are so many components to worry about
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Then the problem may be that the pump does not work with the engine running, Tony…
Ie; fuel is delivered during cranking, but the flap does not open enough to activate the fuel relay. Same test; short fuel relay between white and white.green - and see what happens…
You may of course also listen to the fuel pump after starting - to verify that it is running. If the problem is that the reed switch fail to connect; it is ‘adjustable’…sort of…
Thank you Frank you’ve been a great help to me over these few days , I have learnt a lot about the xj6 it’s been an education ,
I have ordered a new fuel pump I will let you know how things go
Did you try Franks tip about jumping the red Diode Pack?
Mine‘s always been jumped, so the pump keeps running all the time. If that doesn‘t cure it you can look for fuel and filter, and it‘s easier to jump two pins than to install a new pump!
David
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Coils are much of a muchness, Tony - the CE system fitted to the S3 will work equally well with most coils. However, there are some indication that coils with very low resistance between pos and neg may overload the ign amp unless an external resistor is used…
With aftermarket dist/EI a special coil is sometimes specified/supplied - and such manufacturers advise should be followed…
Pages can be written about coils, but they are just transformer - but different manufacturers use different internals, and play those cards close to their chests…
