So, in the course of searching for the fuse which may have blown causing the failure of the old Kenwood radio/cd player, I noticed I was missing one of the two ‘brushes’ part CAC2864 , located on the transmission gear selector quadrant, and when I touched the one which was still there, it disintegrated in my hand! Fortunately, the part is still available. My question is this: can anyone recommend the proper method to install these brushes? Thanks
Mel R.
Here is the Series 2. Remove the shift knobs, then two small screws, and the quadrant indicator comes off.
As I recall, the brushes were just glued on the edge of the hood. You could try glue here, or you may find you have to remove the center console panel. On S2 remove some screws and the storage compartment comes out first, then there are some screws to remove the switch panel. Next 4 nuts to get the shifter cover off. Then there are 4 pop rivets to drill out and you can get the shifter hood off.
That’s fine for the series 2, but on the late series 3 there is only one screw in front of the top of the panel. The rear of the panel is held on by the cruise control switch, which, according to the series 3 service manual, somehow clips on to the metal bracket under and behind the 'PRNL section.Thanks anyway
Mel R.
Mel,
I have removed and replaced these brushes (CAC2864) a few times now on my Series III saloons as well as dealt with issues with the cruise control switch (DAC2748). Suffice it to say that the removal and replacement of these brushes will be more complicated than you might think. The Cruise Control Switch (DAC2748) is held in place by a small plastic clip (DAC 2209) from beneath as detailed in the drawing on the Jaguar Heritage site: https://www.jaguarclassicparts.com/uk/part/DAC2748
In order to get the brushes (CAC2864) out you will have to remove the cruise control switch (DAC2748) by removing the small plastic clip (DAC 2209) that holds it in place and the small screw that holds the plastic PRND21 panel (CAC4770) in place. I have done this a few times and it has never been pleasant or easy. You will have to remove the ski slope first, which if I remember correctly requires removal of the radio and shifter “T” in order to get access to the small plastic clip (DAC 2209).
I have used some two part epoxy to bond the new brushes to the plastic cover (CAC5350) and let it sit over night before trying to reassemble everything.
Good luck.
Regards,
Paul M. Novak
1990 Series III V12 Vanden Plas
1990 XJ-S Classic Collection convertible
1987 XJ6 Vanden Plas
1984 XJ6 Vanden Plas
1969 E-Type FHC
1957 MK VIII Saloon
Ramona, CA USA
Paul
Thanks for the warning. I’ve already ordered the brushes. They should be here in a few days. Despite the dire warnings you have given me, (which, please believe me, I really do appreciate), I’m hoping to not have as much of a nightmare as you described for the following reasons: 1) The brushes appear to run the length of the ‘PRNDL’ quadrant with maybe a small amount extra. My interest in this project came about because I noticed there was no brush on the passenger side of the quadrant. It must have disappeared some time ago. As for the driver side brush, as soon as I so much as touched it, the brush practically disintegrated and came off the channel, where it appears to have been glued on in a substandard manner some time ago by the previous owner. Of course, now the sight of that gapping show where at least one brush used to reside is not tolerable. Now, I know this may seem unorthodox to you, but here’s what I discovered today: When I removed the small screw on the front of panel CAC4770, I found there seemed to be a sizable amount of free movement, so much so that I was actually lift the panel to almost 45 degrees without feeling like it would crack. I have no issue with removing old brushes, they are already gone. Holding panel CAC4770 up with one hand, I was able to reach in and clean the channels of CAC5350 where the new brushes will go. With the use of two part epoxy you described, I do think I can do this without having to remove the ski slope, radio, and cruise control switch. Do you see this method as a realistic possibility for me to get this done in an easier manner, or do you think I’m still missing something here?
Thanks
Mel
Mel,
Looking back on this I believe that I ran into two problems. The first was how to avoid breaking the plastic PRND21 panel (CAC4770). It is very thin, particularly on the right side, and I worried about breaking it if I bent it back. The second was I needed a way to clamp the brush in place in order to hold it for the epoxy to set. I found the disassembly made the removal and replacement of the brushes possible without breaking the PRND21 panel. Of course your way may work perfectly fine.
It is possible that the missing brush from the passenger side fell down inside the shifter quadrant and is just sitting there awaiting discovery.
Good luck.
Regards,
Paul M. Novak
1990 Series III V12 Vanden Plas
1990 XJ-S Classic Collection convertible
1987 XJ6 Vanden Plas
1984 XJ6 Vanden Plas
1969 E-Type FHC
1957 MK VIII Saloon
Ramona, CA USA
Since I’ve owned the car eighteen years I’ll assume it’s resting comfortably somewhere without doing any harm. Two new brushes installed will look better in the end than one new brush installed next to an old rotted one. I will take your advice and be VERY careful with the installation of the new brushes …thanks again Paul
CAC2864 brushes arrived via priority mail yesterday. Heeding the warnings , I approached the task of installation with great caution. First, while carefully lifting up CAC4770 panel enough to access the metal channels upon which the brushes must be attached, I used steel wool to remove all traces of glue which must have been applied to them some years ago. Then, using a Q tip, I applied a thin coating of cement so it would not ooze out of the sides or top. Using my index finger, I pushed the metal bar of the brush unit against the metal ridge, holding it in place for several minutes. I did each side separately. When done, I carefully brought CAC4770 down, making sure brushes were lined up properly. Finally, when done, I reattached the small screw on to the front of CAC4770, feeling confident both brushes are now held firmly in place. Once that was done, I cleaned up the wood, rubber, chrome ash trays (fortunately I do not smoke). Now the center console along with the transmission shifter console look brand new. I’m pleased it turned out so well, and I’m even more pleased I was spared from the task of having to remove the console, cruise control switch, and radio. Thanks again for all your help.
Mel R.
Pardon me guys, I am glad to find this discussion! I am in a bit of a fix. I am attempting to start an '85 XJ6 which had its selector linkage disconnected from the trans prior to being shipped many miles to me. Why the vehicle was not merely put on neutral is beyond me. The seller is unresponsive in what is going on.
Anyway, I pulled her ("Lady’) up on to my ramps and squeezed my ample torso under it to observe. I could see the linkage had been disconnected at the trans connection. I gave up after an hour of fighting to reconnect to the linkage. The challenge was to reach in, line up the flat areas of the cable end with the trans connection and push them connected once again. My struggling grasp was unable to succeed even with my helper inside gently moving the selecter handle. In fact, I never even noticed the cable end move in any way. I concluded either the cable itself seized or was disconnected at the other end too.
So I remove the center console plate and looked around. Couldn’t see where the connection was and figured I needed to remove the complete selector mechanism.
This is where I am now. I can’t get the mechanism loose from where it’s mounted. For fear of damaging anything I decided to reach out here for help.
Suggestions very much appreciated!
Don
It has been a couple of decades since I was that deep in to that part of my car. My shift cable broke. In my drive during the replacement of the engine and transmission. i got a “heavy duty” cable from Johns cars in the FW area of Texas. AKA broken Kitty…
Yes, the lid is known to Jag nuts as the ski slope. That is the panel round the shift tower. Yes, you man need to remove the shift tower to access the clevis on the end odf the cable and the gland nuts that secure the housing to the shift tower.
Aye, i suspect the cable busted and as such they did a work around to get the car in neutral.
So, you are in for a cable replacement.
Carl
Thank you for that, Carl. I will proceed assuming I need to replace the cable since I’d need to do these steps in any event. I’ll also begin to seek out a new or good used cable.
Don,
there is an abundance of stories in the archives around non-starting situations due to a misplacement of the gearshift lever in relation to the inhibitor switch (neutral safety switch, allowing the car to start only in P or N). In many instances wiggling the shifter was able to get around the inhibitor switch. I’d suspect that someone - not knowing about the inhibitor trick - may have removed the gearbox cable instead of the inhibitor switch.
Just in case you need some illustration (this relates to SII cars, but should look quite similar on your BW66 though): this is the lever unit on BW65 boxes :
Maybe I didn’t read carefully enough but it seems your connection at the shifter is still on, but the connection at the gearbox has been removed? I haven’t been there and happy to not have any scars, but I’d guess you might have to dig in from top and remove the gearbox cover? Others will chime in.
Good luck
Jochen
75 XJ6L 4.2 auto (UK spec)
