Series II Fuse Block Replacements

Anyone have recommendations for replacing the fuse box on a 75XJ12C? All of mine have been partially melted over time - particularly the 50 amp slots- and do not hold the fuse very well.

Thanks
Tony

which fuse box under the dash or bonnet?

Here in North America
Try David at Everydayxj.com he may just have a used one. EverydayXJ.com is my primary source for pre-owned parts. He’s a great guy, and more often than not goes way beyond any other vendor to help get your Jag back on the road.

Another source would be Jaguar Heaven in California (USA).

UK
Jag spares (David Manners inc) good bunch of blokes. I purchase stuff from when I’m looking for Non Federal car parts.

Thanks for the reply. On a 75 the only fuse box is under the dash. I was actually thinking of a more modern fuse box that is not subject to melting. I’ve bought 3 xj12s from 74 and 75 and all three have fuse boxes that are not in very good condition. Not sure I’d want to replace with a used one at this point. Short term, I might just put in inline fuses for the two 50 amp slots.

Go to jaguarclassicparts.com find the part number and try SNGBarratt.com or motorcarsltd.com, or XKS.com or until UK davidmanners.com

Sent from my BlackBerry 10 smartphone on the Verizon Wireless 4G LTE network.

I bought some nice bakelite ones. Good quality, don’t look half bad but obviously require some terminal crimping. I was surprised by how good they are. They are for isuzu trucks or so; I’ll look them up. My requirement was that the glass fuses can still be used, which I later gave up for the lights that have spade fuse relays. The ones under the dash can look whatever they want, as long as they don’t melt and are safe… They are made by Chin Den.
They just (just!) fit (2x6), but the flasher relay had to be moved by a bit, RHD S3. The other side is still original.

Granted, the originals should last if you find them in good condition and take care not to get them to melt… I’d say at least ten years before you have to look at them again, and I bet rewiring is no fun with them. Rather rewire them nicely. Also get a nice backing plate so you don’t get the screws or terminals contacting the metal behind the fuse boxes.

David

1 Like

Tony,

granted, 50A is quite something. OTOH my under dash fuse box in a 75 car is as new. So maybe melting or other forms of deterioration are rather the consequence of abuse (think of that modern stereo, aircraft landing lights or just the perceived need to compensate for deterioration in wiring and contacts).

All in all the standard fuse box doesn’t seem to suffer from design shortcomings. YMMV …

Jochen

75 XJ6L 4.2 auto (UK spec)

Obviously, I don’t know what might have caused the issue. I have some other electrical issues I will be trying to track down besides trying to get the Delanair unit to work. I don’t have any fans on any setting but as I was running through the tests and looking behind the fuse box, I happened to press on the 11 position fuse bracket on one side and my fans on Defrost mode started running. I had already cleaned the contacts so I think that confirms I have an issue in the fuse block. I may just try to replace those two for starters.

I did take a look at my 74’s box (which is currently out of the car) and it does look OK but it also does not have any 50 amp circuits. It does seem like the gauge of the wiring to the Delanair is a little light if it is supposed to carry up to 50 amps.

Thanks
Tony

Thanks for the lead. I’d love to find a box like in my 59 Porsche with screw down connectors for the wiring instead of crimping on leads but don’t want that style of fuse. This box would be better than the blades ones I’ve found. At least you wouldn’t have to worry about the wire working loose from the blade. In any case, I have not found a fuse block rated for 50amps. Many top out at 30 and there are a couple of 35 amp circuits on the car.

Thanks again
Tony

They are thermoplastic and can break, the brass gets brittle in severe cases and they deform. Also, the fuses are hard to get out in some cases, especially with brittle glass tubes. The box I posted gets rid of most of these shortcomings (and it won’t mind 50A, which could be the blow rating with 35A cont.). If you clean (scrub!) the contacts and carefully bend them inwards you will have the fans running again.

Fuse holders with spade connectors for the wiring could be soldered so the spade doesn’t slip off at any chance - but there are many spades in your car and none come off by accident. I also prefer blade fuses, but I like the glass ones for some reason… and dind’t want to introduce FOD.

David

Where did you find this?

I went through many searches until I chose these. Maybe check chin den, they have these on their page, and find a part number if you can’t find them on ebay right away.