I may have to remove and replace a stub axle. From what I can tell after looking at the Bentley Manual it’s a taper fit into the carrier and secured by a Nyloc.
Does anyone have any tips they could share on separating the the stub axle from the carrier?
A press and proper shoes is your best bet.
You can wail on it with a BFH, but isn’t the best way.
After reading folks’ struggles with removing the axle stub, I was preparing to make a trip to a friend’s shop to use his press. Luckily an overnight soak in PB Blaster, a little heat, and three good whacks with my 4# mini sledge, and it dropped out!
RobY
And hearing protection! Man these things make a loud bang when the let loose 
Why might you have to remove it? For me the only reason to remove it is if the inner race of a bearing has been rotating and carved metal out of the spindle
Dennis 69 OTS
The mud shield prys off and can be reused. Leave the nut on to retain the axle when it releases, and apply a lot of pressure. With pressure on it heating the area on the upright that holds it is helpful. As said if you are not going to replace it leave it be.
Good advice all, thank you.
Bingo. I’ve ordered the parts and when they arrive I’ll pull the hub and see if the stub axle is damaged.
I can tell the outer inner race was rotating because the “D” washer has as path cut into it and the corresponding face of the inner bearing race is worn away where it cut the path. If I have to replace the axle, I’ll have the parts in hand, if not I’ll have yet another spare part.
Sometimes this happens if the bearing is tightened too much and no end float is left.
Dennis 69 OTS
Put it in a big press. Put a big cardboard box full of rags under it.
Wear hearing protection and stand well back.
BAAANG
SNGB do sell tapered spacers that fit over the stub axel inbetween inner and outer bearing…shims are used to obtain correct end float…but you effectively clamp the bearings in place so no chance if them spinning on on the stub axel…Steve
Yesterday I made a tool. Copied a design our own Nickolas, Nick Saltarelli, provided me. Thank you very much Nick.
Procure a 2" ID black steel nipple at the hardware store, I bought a 12" but a 6" one will work nicely.
Cut it down to 4" long. Smooth the cut end with a Dremel tool drum sander.
Weld grade 8, 7/8" washer on one end.
On top of that I welded two 13/16" washers, keeping them concentric.
.
.
The left over nipple showing the size of the washer to be welded on.
The finished tool. The picture is deceptive, the overall length is 4-3/8"
In place on the stub axle. In this picture the axle has already been removed; I stuck it back in loosely to show how the tool is situated. The shoulder of the axle would not be showing if it was fully seated. I used a few smaller washers as spacers and used a grade 8 nut to help extract the axle.
.
I tightened the nut to 130 ft/lbs and smacked the other end, where the red arrow is pointing, about 3 times with a 3 lb. drilling hammer, then tightened the nut a bit more. A few more solid whacks with the hammer and the axle popped out of it’s hole. I didn’t have to take the car apart and carry the assembly to the hydraulic press. 
Last night I gave both side a shot of PB blaster. Did it hep? Beats me, but it couldn’t have hurt.
Steve are ones SNGB sell for an E Type. If so do you by any chance have a part number?
Hi Terry…yes E type… C19423U-A is a single spacer and shims…C19423U is a kit…two spacers, shims, inner and outer bearings, d washers, and nuts…also discussed here …Steve Removing Spindled Hub - #23 by MGCJAG
Thanks Steve. Interestingly the spacer for the MG is $12.59 at Moss, but 78 pounds at SNG. The bearings for the MG and E type seem to be the same. I’m going to see if I can find some used ones here, and see if they fit.
I wouldn’t be surprised if the MGB parts would work on an E-type.
If my memory serves me, both the inner and outer wheel bearings are the same. The main question would be the distance between the wheel bearings, but that could likely be accounted for with some simple alterations.
Interesting, given that E-types are heavier and use 52 mm splined hubs while MGs use 42. The hub size is supposed to relate to the inner bearing diameter it will accommodate. Maybe 52 hubs weren’t necessary, at least on E-types?
The bearings Jaguar used for the front wheels are common to many cars. When I’d go to my jobber and ask for them by bearing numbers I’d often get the statement “Oh trailer bearings you mean.” Ubiquitous as they say. Used even by Ford in the period. Jaguar, thankfully, did not want to re invent the wheel.
That tool is a really neat idea. You could just use a piece of 1/4 steel I suspect for us non welders.
Nick came up with it. He showed me the pictures and gave me dimensions. All I did was follow a blueprint. It did work well. Good thing too. I really didn’t want to break the ball joints loose. I didn’t even disconnect the brake caliper. I just unbolted it, and the bracket that carries the union between the flex and hard lines and hung it off of the upper A arm with a piece of wire.
