Hi, I’m back
Well I took the kids to the local annual city festival and in the '85 XJ6 and a woman backed into it with her truck, pushed the 10mph bumper in enough to cause the hood not to open. Any suggestions other than take the front bumper off, and unbolt the front hinge(s)?
Don’t you have to take the bumpers off anyway to pull the shock absorbers back ?
Aristides
Get after the gal and her insurer. Let them provide the $'s to pay a panel beater to do the work.
But, I think the issue is a bit more complex. It usually is, at least in my camp!!
Does the bonnet/hood unlatch at the rear? If not, there is a port under the wings to allow a rod to be inserted and unlatch it.
If that part is OK, but the forward travel of the bonnet is limited by the rearward movement of the 5 mile bumper, more is amiss.
Listers have described "bleeding off’ the supports to allow the bumper to move back and become less prominent and “look better”. The reasoning for my doubts as to the extent of what is amiss.
Other than what is the best, removing the bumper, I have ideas that may or may not work.
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Clamp a chain onto the bumper. Attach the other end to a sturdy post. The electric pole across the road here has served at times, here! Back up the jaguar gently. Reverses the force that did the deed.
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Is there room under the valence for two bottle jacks. One might suffice. One end of the jacvk opn the front cross member, not the radiator support, and the other against the back side of the bumper.
Ugh, why the h… don’t folks look before backing???
In spite of my limitation of movement in my neck, I try like h… to make sure I’m clear before moving.
Shoot, three mirrors are there for a purpose…
Carl
I once saw the monthly accident reports at my Lab. Average 80 percent of the accidents involving lab vehicles was in backing up.
On my '74 XJ12 there are two access ports under the front fenders (UK = wings) where you can reach in and release the hood (UK = bonnet) catches with a screwdriver. I guess they are for if the cables were broken, but it might work in your case.
Thank you all for your response(s)!
I will ultimately end up taking it to a panel beater, but I’ve got to get the bonnet open to start it. I’m not really sure what’s going on under there. The rest of the story.
When it happened there didn’t appear to be any physical damage, other than a scuff and tear in the rubber which caught my immediate attention, and that I guess it just happened because when I got to the car, she came over and apologized. blah blah blah. upon start up a bit of belt squeal (which was sometimes normal, it was the audible note that my little kitten need it’s alternator belt tightened), then it stopped - frequently normal. halfway home I noticed the temp gauge was pegged hot! OMG!! pulled over and tried to get the hood open… fail… finally got her home. and this is where the story began.
I looked on my series II and I couldn’t see anyway to get access to the latch from under the car; other than access to pull the cable, which doesn’t appear to be to be the issue, I’m guessing the pin with the spring that catches in the latch is what is stuck.Of course now the car’s been sitting for a couple of months, and it wont start. Ugh! Looks like the bumper is gonna come off.
Thanks again Gentlemen!
Mark
If unable to open hood, Pry thru fender grommet hole to unlock or
turn to loosen bottom mounting screws from under the fender.
hope this helps
WalterI’m not really sure where your talking about. is through the access panel behind the front tire?
**
If you look in the wheel arch, Mark - you see the grommet(s), below the position of the latching pins. If you have the wheel arch lining, you have to remove that…
The procedure is as you suspect; as the striker pin moves down, a spring loaded striker plate is forced back and then engages in the striker bolt indent. Inserting a screwdriver through the access hole you manipulate the striker plate to release the striker pin - and the bonnet pops. Simple in theory - fiddly in practice…
Alternatively, as a first; with an assistant holding the release lever (to withdraw the striker plate), push/manipulate on the bonnet to possibly release a misaligned striker pin, it sometimes work…
If pooped; you must readjust the striker - after checking the bonnet for any effects from the collision…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
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Ok, I do have wheel arch lining? don’t all cars? Not the stupid chrome bits on the outside of the wheel arch, right? but inside the wheel arch, right? in my head I’m trying to picture this, but I’ll look when I get up in the AM.
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I’m not sure the linings have the access grommets, Mark…so…
If the bonnet has been forced out of alignment by the impact and won’t unlatch - the bumper may also prevent the bonnet from opening. In which case the bumper must likely be removed, or alternatively forcibly pull the bumper as suggested by Carl. In principle, the strut works on friction and rubber - and while damage may require parts replacement, brute force should pull the struts out. However, the struts are meat to react to and impact of some 2 tons moving at some 5 mph - and the motion cannot be reversed with a toothpick…
If indeed the bumper is move backwards to contact the bonnet, I suggest you consider removing the bumper before proceeding…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
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Some time back, the bonnet on my car got stuck closed. Misalignbment. Poking around through the
ports under the wing did not operate the latches.
But, in my case, as it appears here, the cables were intact and the operating handle did pull.
So, I used a small “Tommy Bar” with a shop rag on the
contact point as a lever. In my case along the trailing edge of the bonnet and the cowl. It did not
take much force and the bonnet popped open.
The latches had released, but one or both pins were in a bind.
Carl
Yes, You will have to remove the rubber grommet and find your way into the
latch to undo it.
Walter
thank you all! I found the hole, the spring is in the way, but with some proper fiddling; I believe I can get the hood open. thank you thank you!!
Here is the rubber grommet or plug under the wing that you have to remove.
Here is the rubber plug from the top side. The part above the plug and partly obscuring it in this picture with the small hole showing is what you have to move rearwards. Get a screwdriver in there and push or pry it rearwards.
Here is the latch from the top. The part that looks like a carrot slicer is what you have to move rearwards.
Here is the latch from the rear. The thick channel shaped part connected to the cable has to slide rearwards.
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You’ll eventually manage, Walter…
As Carl remarks; the binding may be so slight that a crowbar, gently applied, may do the trick - but the release lever must of course be pulled…
Incidentally, once you have unlatched don’t absentmindedly slam the hood down - let it down gently to be held closed by the retaining hook. Then go through the adjustment procedure, which is somewhat convoluted as it also involves ensuring that the hood is properly aligned…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
Oh, no I’m not going to slam the bonnet down. I know how these are supposed to shut, and this one did it perfectly. Key word DID 
Awesome Rob! Thank you.
Rob:
Those pictures are an awesome tutorial. Their presence in the archives will help many.
Frank:
A “Tommy Bar” is smaller and flat, but with a curve
on each end, one with a slot. Used for lighter demolition than a hefty crow bar.
Carl
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As an apropos to previous posts - the ‘hang-up’ itself…
As the latchplate is supposed to retract fully when pulling the release handle, maladjusted pins may ‘hang’ but lightly, and a firm push, with the release pulled, through the access hole may free the pins? Actually, the striker pins are notched to accept a screwdriver for normal adjustments, and while this usually entails loosening the locknut - it may still be possible to unscrew the pin through the access holes, releasing the hood.
As sort of alternatives…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
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Here is a shot of me sticking a Phillips screwdriver up through the access hole into the small hole in the latch slider. You could also do it with a flat blade screwdriver levering on the end. The goal is to slide that thing rearwards.
Your problem is most likely a bent latch pin or the hood panel where it is screwed in. Here is a shot of the latch pin.
Hidden by the cup shaped washer on the end of the coil spring is the head of the latch pin, which is shaped sort of like a mushroom. It may be hanging up on the latch slider (carrot slicer).
Let us know how you make out.