With all due respect… on a streeter, is this reinforcement really necessary?
I cannot recall any significant flexure of an E Type tub that was in good shape: Tweety suffered the slings and arrows of a few years of hard competition, as delivered, with no cracks or flex points.
From a seller? I’m sure it is…
Undoubtedly, it will do wonders for the mental dyno…
And don’t keep those photos just on a single computer. Burn them to DVDs, put them on an online picture service, buy a second external HD, or buy a NAS. Hard disks and SSDs die, laptops get lost or stolen.
Hello Paul,
I should have qualified my statement and have edited my previous Post accordingly. We fit that brace as a matter of course when working with OTS cars. The turret of Coupes and 2+2 car is a very strong structural member and these cars don’t really benefit from the internal sill brace. But you can definitely notice the difference between OTS car that have and don’t have this brace fitted.
Chucks configuration is a vast overkill in my opinion.
Regards,
Bill
That, I can buy. It also would greatly increase the strength of the jacking points.
and how do I know what good advice this is?
had I opened the rockers, I would have done some kind of extra bracing…the one I am familiar with looks line an additional brace similar to original ones…right over the jack point.
Streeter? jacking up the car for the first time after purchase told me it would be a good idea.
Was it as-factory, no internal rust? I jacked plenty that were new…never saw any significant flexure.
I’m not arguing against doing it: if it floats yer boat, go fer it!
All I’m saying is, as delivered new, in factory shape, the bracing Jaguar designed was adequate.
It looks less of a repair and more of a lifestyle change.
Think of it like like a full gym workout and you get and e type out of it at the end as well.
From the look of your pictures, you may be best off fitting one of these.
Here is one I did earlier. Once you get stuck in, it really is no big deal.
It doesnt take that long either if you know where to cut!
James
Very nicely-done rotisserie!
I carried out extensive panel replacement on my ‘62 Coupe and what I found most helpful was a Practical Classics book "E-Type Jaguar Restoration’’ which describes the total stripping and rebuild of the bodywork of a series 2 Coupe, done by Colin Ford in England. The pictures alone were a great help in ascertaining what to cut out and the book is well worth its cost just for the article on bonnet rebuilding.
Another great help were the restoration pictures on Classic Jaguar’s website where they comprehensively chronicle total rebuilds of each car for their customers.
The Practical Classics book is out of print and the asking prices vary enormously but here’s one that seems reasonable
https://www.sportsandclassics.com/parts/jaguar/jaguar-xke/practical-classics-jaguar-e-type-restoration/
Thanks Wigg.
It helps when a friend has an E type jig to enable the shell to be checked first.
Mind you, if you fit the whole floor section with the chassis legs and inner sills (as above), it will not fit if your car isn’t straight. It should just drop straight in to the bottom of the door posts.
This is one I did years ago and now sold to another member doing a roadster. I remember starting it on Saturdary morning and finishing it on Sunday lunchtime. The balance point was good, so you could swing the shell through 360 degrees with one arm and insert a locking pin with the other.
I also had a square section piece that joined the engine hoists together along the floor to make pushing it around the workshop easy.
The workshop is very busy.
What you cannot see is the internal bracing which connects front and rear bulkheads with the door posts.
It didn’t flex a bit.
