Side repeater (sidemarkert?) lamp: removing and replacing

1988 VIN…529827 One of my side repeater (sideflasher or sidemarker) lamps is disintegrating and producing an intermittent bulb failure warning, so I will have to replace. I can see how to remove the outer glass (two small screws) but not the rest. How do I remove the whole fitting?

Is this the one in the bumper or in the fender? Bumper one just pushes out IIRC, N American models don’t have fender indicators so can’t help you there sorry.

No. I mean the one high up in the body. About waist height just forward of the front door. Maybe it has a different name? BTW I’m in Australia. UK variant I believe.

Alan, I do not know the official name for the unit you are describing but ‘side repeater’ is enough to tell me you are referring to the unit mounted in the fender (wing) that flashes along with the turn indicator (turn signal for us Yanks). Our North American spec cars do not have those; in lieu of the lamp units we have leaping Jaguar emblems. Perhaps someone that has those repeaters can verify but I am guessing the unit is accessed from the back (inner) side of the fender, after the fender liner has been removed.

A picture (or two) is worth a thousand words:

That’s the place (on the wing)! But ‘remove inner liner’ as you indicated in the other thread is seems totally impractical. It is not removable. It is solid inner body part forming the engine bay! Still not sure how to remove and replace. I’ll take a photo tomorrow. BTW I’ve never tried putting photos on here. How do I do that?

The inner fender or fender liner is plastic and removable, take the wheel off first.

Thanks Larry. Is the side flasher body secured from the wheel arch side or can it just be prized out from outside the car? Maybe I don’t need to remove wheel, or maybe I can just raise the car. I have a good hydraulic jack but at my age I’m not sure I can manage the wheel.

If you can get to the fasteners without removing the wheel, all well and good.
If you do have to remove a wheel, sit with your legs either side of the wheel to be fitted and raise the wheel on to the studs with your thighs. these wheels are heavy, for sure.
Before you remove the unit for cleaning, just get some contact cleaner spray and give the fixture a good bath. When wet with spray, insert and re-insert the bulb a few times - maybe that will be enough to get it to work again.

Thanks for the suggestions. You are an optimist Larry! I would guess you are not 82. Sitting on a floor is beyond me, as is the rest of that procedure. I can sit on a chair but no go the floor! I’ll follow the rest. My bulb seems to be held in with gunge (maybe a previous bodge)! Best hope is to find a replacement. How is it fitted in?

The black plastic part of the wing side repeater is a push fit into the wing/fender. It has springy plastic tangs which compress as it’s pushed home then they open up to hold the unit in place. To remove it, take off the orange lens, then put masking tape along the two vertical sides to protect the paintwork then use an old credit card or thin blade to slide behind the unit and compress one of the springy tangs at the same time pulling the unit towards you. The tangs are located where the two straight sides are shown at the hole in the second picture.
Be aware the plastic tangs become very brittle with age and are likely to snap off.
There are NO replacements available for the wing repeaters AFIK, at least here in the UK there isn’t. My bulb holders were totally corroded away and un-usable so I had to 'adapt ’ them using parts from old Ford number plate lamps I had lying around. Also both springy tangs broke off so I had to remove the plastic wing liner and use home made plastic clips held in place with a cable tie to retain them. Not pretty to look at but completely out of sight.
Another member I spoke to used double sided tape to hold his in place following the same problem with the snapped tangs. I hope this helps you. :grinning:

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Thanks. Very helpful, though from memory fitting is chrome bezel. Also see my post about ‘gearbox rotary switch’ which may not exist in 1988 or UK/Aus models

I’ve managed to acquire one quite good side flasher and have had to scrape off the remainder of the old rubber/neoprene? gasket on the back of the chrome bezel. What can I use to replace it?

You can either use some polyurethane caulk (preventing it sticking to the wing by greasing the surface first) or get some sheet rubber or similar from a craft store and cut out the shape - you can even use a bit of old innertube scrounged from your local tire or bike shop.

Thanks. Inner tube suggests something really thin. Sheet rubber sounds better, but what thickness? I would suspect at least 1 mm thick? What is the best thickness (say of the original if anyone has one) I imagine that is quite critical if the press in fittings are to work properly.

Try some paddling pool neoprene/rubber liner? Or two pieces of inner tube, rubber cement the pieces together and then cut to shape?

Sorry all. Have accidentally started a new topic re fitting without removing trim and also thickness.

In the separate thread I opened in error, I was asking if anyone had successfully replaced their side flasher without removing the wheel arch trim, and if so, how. I have now done it successfully. A full update follows:
I managed to detach the old flasher from the wing with a blade and mallet. There were no mounting posts, and no small fixing holes in the car. Only the centre hole for the bulb part of the flasher. The flasher had simply been fixed to the car body with some sort of adhesive. For the moment I left it hanging. I now detached the connector inside the bonnet and passed a brightly coloured cord through the little slots in the female connector (flasher side), now pulling the old unit right off the car with the cord attached (and safely secured under the bonnet – pulling it through prematurely is not what is wanted!). Now I threaded the outside end of the cord through the female connector of the new replacement and pulled the cord back through to under the bonnet and reconnected with the car loom. Thus I was able to avoid removing the wheel arch trim. The only problem with this procedure is that the rubber grommet for the underboot hole is very difficult to recover (tweezers?) but in my case the hole was very smooth with no rough edge to rub on the wires. I am now awaiting some JB Weld RTV gasket paste to complete the installation.

Well done Alan, good to take those precautions.