My winter project was to install the air conditioning unit in my 1970 S11 coupe. All of the components had been taken off many years ago and stored away in boxes. I’ll share how I have completed the task, not saying this is the right way ,or only way, but it is the way I did it and am very satisfied with the results. I recently completed a 1300 mile trip with 90 degree days and kept cool in the car.
For those working on a tighter budget, my total cost was approximately $700.00 in parts, considerably less than the new kits. Of course there was a considerable amount of free hobby labor involved.
The original fiberglass evaporator needed a lot of fiberglass repair, new vents, expansion valve,thermostat switch and flare to o-ring adapters. I installed a new Sanden SD5H14 compressor, new dryer, all new hoses with o-ring fittings, an inline high/low pressure switch, and a new parallel flow condensor in front of the radiator. Pretty much everything is new except for the evaporator coil. I wasn’t able to find anything that size, so cleaned it well with a A/C flush solvent.
I’m attching a few photos and a line drawing schematic with the part numbers for the fittings from A/C Nostalgic Air.
The only problem I had so far happened within 10 minutes after the original A/C charge. The interior fan motor stopped running. I thought it was a bad motor and so installed the Grainger 3LCH7 replacement motor. The new motor stopped again on the next startup. I then replaced the resistor, same results. Finally I remembered there was a relay on this circuit. I replaced the relay and all was good. Should have started at the relay side first, but at least now I have a new fan motor and resistor.
I hope this helps those who a considering updating their a/c unit. If you have questions, I’ll try to answer the best I can.
Inspiring work. I also have the original A/C which the owner said died about 20 years ago. I found out the relay was bad and after changing it out it seems to turn on a blow although it does not blow cold. I guess the next step is to check to see if the seals are good and it does not leak but my guess is I will end up having to do what you have done and replace a bunch of stuff to get it working properly, so I have bookmarked this and will be following closely.
Do you have a parts list with part numbers and where you purchased them ?
Sorry, but I can’t read most of the writing on the diagram despite blowing it up several times. What, for instance, is the make and product number of the Condenser and where did you get it?
Russ - wonderful post! Easy to understand and very straightforward. The middle setting on my Series II A/C fan switch doesn’t work. Any ideas on how to address?
CU_Man;
It may be your A/C fan (blower) switch is the fault. My low speed fan position did not work and I was able to source a new switch which solved the problem.
You have to remove the evaporator to access the switch. The correct switch allows the thermostat stud (for lack of a better term) to come through the center and the blower switch stud surrounds it.
Some owners have used a new generic 4 pole switch mounted adjacent to the old thermostat switch as the original switch is no longer available.
I have a few photos that may help to give you an idea for repair.
This is the front of the evaporator case, it is upside down. You are looking at the back of the thermostat and the blower switch is in front and not visible
This shows the blower switch attached to the thermostat with two screws.
Another view, blower switch in front and thermostat (square) in back.
Sorry I don’t know where a new switch may be sourced. It may be possible to repair the old one but I have not tried that yet.
SNG Barratt also backordered that part to me.Of course I paid extra for 3 day delivery
It did come in a couple of weeks.
CU
Sorry, don’t think I can help you on the switch problem. I couldn’t find a replacement. Possibly check the resistor on the frame. It’s easy to get to, only three wires to unplug.
Would it be possible to post a few more pictures of the other parts that you have in place so I can get a better idea of the connections and positioning of the various items. Although mine has factory AC it was not put in at the factory but added later and some yobbo with a hammer did a little metal persuasion so he could run the hoses outside the engine frame.
Also was your interior parts for the AC (switch/vents/unit) all in reasonable working order or did you need to perform any fixes before adding the new vents.
What service…I just received the parts from Nostalgic Air Parts…had to call them, they answered as they do not put part numbers on the parts so checking off from the reciept was impossible without Nostalgic describing the part…all here and accounted for. Shipping was some $26…of note this order would fit in a medium flat rate box. Without the dryer it would fit into a small flat rate box…
Be that as it may…got it…
Dave, living here in Phoenix without air/co is somewhat masochistic…yet I have been pondering the Retroair a/c system so I can enjoy driving for that five months of the year. But I also realize there’s more to it than slapping on a kit…relocation of alternator, belts, new pulleys, header tank relocation, etc. I would be interested in all your issues regarding your installation prior to making that decision. Thanks
My factory AC was disconnected when I bought the car (cut hoses, no belts on compressor).
I wanted the best AC experience I could get and the overwhelming response was to install a RetroAir system. Thus my decision. I am holding out hope that we can get it sorted as I’ve already dumped a ton of money into this so you I’m in for the long haul.
Honestly, I’d hold off on the kit until this thread reaches a conclusion.
