x2 on that one,
the stud often wants to screw out, then scum falls down in the hole, but better than a broken stud
Doesnāt sound like there were many threads to turnā¦ in fact it sounds like what I feel in my situation. I can remove the acorn nut due to what might be friction in the head, but the stud will not take torque either way. I am certain that the stud is threaded in, and broken. Didnāt take much to get lose either!
But +1 on pull it out if possible.
David
I am pretty sure it is broken. I tried to pull it out this evening but after it comes up about 2 inches it gets lodged and difficult to move. I sprayed a bunch of penetrating oil around the top of the stud and will let is soak and try again this evening. I am guessing corrosion of the stud has caused it to swell a little so may need some persuasion to remove. I was thinking putting on a couple of nuts and leveraging them from underneath as I rotate it with a ratchet. Other option would be lite taps with a slide hammer.
Jay
Hi Jayā¦a friend recently had a stud snap like yoursā¦he didnt want to pull the engine till winter and to continue to use it through the summerā¦he pulled out a couple of core plugs and could see the stud snapped just above the threaded holeā¦his stud though came out unlike yours thats stuckā¦his tempory fix was to use a new shortened stud that went back in through the head and in far enough into the water chamber so that he could fit a washer and nut in through the core plug holeā¦then torqued downā¦ist working okā¦
I managed to extract the broken stud part with a little leverage and penetrating fluid. It looks like it has broken right where the screw thread begins at the bottom of the stud. The original stud would have been C-29033 which is 12 11/16", so it looks like there is just under an inch that broke off.
I took a look for the core plug but it looks like that particular one has another fitting inside which looks like it might just unbolt with some persuasion. Is this on all xke engines ? And I am assuming its alright to remove this to gain access ?
Thanks
Jay
Iād be tempted to pull that plug, clean up the stub in the block, with a dremel, reinsert the broken stud and mig weld it up. Add some kroil, And try to back it out.
The hex plug in your picture take a heater element for harsh climes.
Looks like corrosion.
I would consider inspecting all of them.
Marco
Were it mineā¦ Iād just drop the engine, strap it to a pallet and mail it to Dick Maury in Georgia.
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That was about the most satisfying thing I did to my car. I put mine in the back of the truck and did a road trip; convincing myself I was saving the freight cost. 
.
thats gonna require at least a couple of first class stampsā¦
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The engines in these old collectables get rebuilt more often than they get a tank of gas!
Yes.
I have two broken studs by now. The one I know about and the other I found about today. The new addition has been fixed with a bolt; I assume a threaded rod from above had a washer and nut put on via the frost plug and was then pulled up and shortened. Seems like it held up for at least 10-20 years, who knows. This is the endoscope picture up the welsch plug hole and we both immediately recalled this thread!
This certainly proves that although definitely not the right way to fix this, it can be done. Some know-it-all E type owner I debated last year is finally proven wrong
told him that the short studs and a timesert could be done if the old stud cannot be removed. He said, no way, impossible, the block is fundamentally different, wonāt hold up for a single mile! And so on. Iād still fix it properly if it was my not-so-shabby E.
Nice work around David. As an owner of a long stud block, itās comforting to have a solid plan ābā.
The youtube video series āmy junk xke engineā deals with a broken stud and he makes it look easy. This is a good series to watch if you are planning on rebuilding the engine or just curious about how things go together.
Hi Jay, I am sure you have received more advice than you can handle!. However just located my copy of Jaguar Journal ( JCNA ) volume 57, Number 1, and in it on page 44, Mr Monte Edwards describes how how he fixed 3 broken studs with help from some āmembersā of this forum.
The hex plug that is in place of the freeze plug. Is that a normal thread or a left hand thread ?
I tried to remove it earlier today with a home made hex bit made from a welded nut and bolt, but it would not move even with a 3 foot extension and the bolt sheared. I am guessing I will need an impact driver to remove it so want to make sure I unscrew it the correct direction. Is a 7/8 impact hex bit the correct size ?
Jay
Mine is a 15/16. I will note that I was never able to get that plug out, even with the air impact. I didnāt get as far as using heat because I got the studs to come out before I resorted to that last step.
Dittoā¦
When you say, āresorted to the last stepā. Do you mean pulling the engine and having it rebuilt or am I not-interpreting incorrectly ?
Even with the engine removed I cannot see how I would be able to see anything without removing this plug somehow. Hopefully somebody has managed to get it removed and can shed some light on the process.
jay