While I had my steering rack, rad etc out, I decided it would be a good time to update the flexible front brake lines as one seemed to been worn. Also probably time to replace that old fluid anyway. I did them quickly attaching the upper line (at frame bracket) first, letting it drain down the line to the connection at the wheel. I assumed (or maybe hoped) this would minimize the air in the line. When I went to bleed (manual not pressure) I continue to get air even after putting about half a litre of fluid in the reservoir. Even tried pumping up brakes quite a few times before releasing the bleed screw. That just seemed to “foam” the fluid. No leaks that I can see. Brakes were working fine - no leaks that I could see, but did have to top up fluid every once in awhile.
I’m not able to drive or even start the car just yet as rack is on it’s return trip from Coventry West and rad isn’t in.
Any thoughts or advice?
Hi Bob,
I have never been able to bleed the brakes on my S3 without using a pressure bleeder set up. IIRC I was able to bleed the fronts with and assistant pumping the brakes but the rears were another story.
I made my pressure bleeder set up and you’ll find lots of ‘hits’ on this topic if you do a search.
Cheers,
LLynn
It is also possible that you have indeed bled the air from the system and the bubbles or foam you are seeing is from air that comes in around the loosened thread of the bleed screw. You might tighten everything up and see how the pedal feels.
If still not good then, as Lynn says, a pressure bleed is in order.
I keep it simple and use a bicycle inner tube though there are other set-ups both factory made and home made (e.g. garden sprayers).
Interesting
I’ll give it a try. Seems simple enough. What could go wrong?!..
Take Care
Bob Burnyeat
PS
How do you regulate the pressure? I read 10lbs or less is appropriate.
Take Care
Bob Burnyeat
I just add air until the tube inflates a bit. I did stuff towels under the reservoirs just in case one of the hoses came off under there. None did but even with DOT5 it would have been messy.
I used zip ties to secure the tube to the reservoir. Helped to double over the end of the tube (make a ‘cuff’).
Bob, I just replaced all three flex lines and had to ask for help too! For me, the fronts were easy, it was the backs I had problems with. Like was already said, be sure the flex lines and bleed nipples seal. What I ended up doing on the backs was remove and clean the nipples and while they were out, it gravity bled some. Put the nipples back in and it bled like a normal car. I did do the final bleed with it running per the ROM.