SIII Connecting Rod Bolts/Nuts- 3x Questions

E-Type
1

I’m still tracking down some hard to find parts (rare or expen$ive, or both) for the restoration of my Series III.

Me and at least one other lister are stymied in our search of the subject items.

Question 1: I have connecting rod bolts and nuts I kept from an engine rebuild I did in 1986/87. Can theses be safely reused? i.e.: are they torque to yield (one time use) or good for another go?

Question 2: I did find some a few years back but I received a mixed batch. These (photo immediately below) are known to be correct, they are Con Rod Bolt C33271 for 5.3 V12 models up to 1975 and are what I know I need:

20210502_151105
20210502_1511053024×3024 1.07 MB

In that shipment the vendor included what they called “New Inventory” and these looked like these:

20210502_151131
20210502_1511313024×3024 1.06 MB
I have come to understand these are Con Rod Bolt C43809 for 5.3 and 6.0 V12 models from 1975 onwards. These are significantly shorter as the photo below shows.
20210502_151149
20210502_1511493024×3024 789 KB

So (finally), question 2 (which I suspect I know the answer to) is: Can these “New Inventory” bolts safely be used in a 1972 Series XKE V12 engine?

Question 3: Anyone know of a vendor selling the Con Rod Bolt C33271 for 5.3 V12 models up to 1975. I’ll need 24 nuts as well.

They gotta be available out there – restoration shops are still working on V12s, aren’t they? The answer is out there – thanks in advance for helping me find it.

Craig

1 Like
2

If they are the same size as Chevy rod bolts, you can just use Chevy rod nuts.

3

Small Block?
Big Block?
??

4

I do not recall there being a difference: if so, small block.

5

I’m no expert on the V12, but as the con rod bolts are NLA you’re stuck with what you have.

I (see above disclaimer) can’t see how a different bolt could work.

You can stretch test fasteners; ask your trusted machinist his/her opinion on the best way to check yours.

WRT nuts I would use whatever ARP has in the correct size.

We have closed up shop, and a lot of our inventory is gone. If you want I can ask Chris to see if we have any used bolts; we would not have new ones.

6

I have never seen them, but my concern would be the different lengths. That means different rods to me. For Chevy 454 LS7 rods you could get knurled shank and ground shank rod bolts. The ground shank were more accurate and expensive.

Agree on ARP nuts. Ford or Chev had variations from 11/32" to 7/16"

7

Had a quick look on ebay: Your short ones look like from a XJ6

8

I found this small article on-line and IDs the bolts

9

I can’t see your article :slight_smile:

But here one can also see a bit more:
https://www.scparts.co.uk/sc_en/company-profile/press-release/2019-july-22-con-rod-bolt/

10

Thanks Dom – I managed to neglect to include the link. That’s the article.

11

Interestingly, when you search the SC Parts site for C33271 nothing comes up.

12

Andrew

I had the same confusion. After playing around on the SC site – expecting them to follow through on their intent to reproduce the bolts – I finally found it/them. Now – why would they go to the expense of reproducing them and then NOT use the Jaguar part Number??

After I pulled myself up off the floor and caught my breath, I tallied the damages. Since I have 10 new connecting rod bolts I only needed 14 more. But needed all 24 nuts

|## Con rod bolt

|## Con rod nut

The total comes to £323,57 (without VAT) – today’s exchange rate is 1.39; therefore $450 total. EGADS!!

The search continues . . .

13

NEW QUESTION:

I attended the Hot Rod Nationals in Pueblo on Sat 26JUN21 and traveled with a friend. We were discussing my engine rebuild on the way and he rekindled an old memory. I rebuild the engine in 1987 to cure several oil leaks and 2 exhaust leaks. Connecting rod bolts were available them – and I replaced them all. Now – while that was 34 years ago, I only drove the Jag for 2 years before taking it off the road for a re-paint (and here we are decades later). I don’t remember my mileage in those 2 years but 12,000-15,000 seems reasonable.

Q: Am I worrying about a whole lot of nothing?? {I realize using 24 new bolts/nuts is ideal, but $450!!!}

14

…yes!

Use them…they are perfectly OK (if they are not TTY bolts).

15

I would then only clean up the engine without opening it!

16

Dominik – I wish I could agree with you, but the car’s not-so-recent history is pushing me in a different direction.

My Jag last ran under its own power in 1991 or 1992.
From1990-1993 my Jaguar was stripped to bare metal, all body work done, and primer-ed – no paint.
From 1993 to 2008 it sat in a non-temperature controlled storage garage in Phoenix. HOT and DRY
From 2008 to 2021 it sat in a non-temperature controlled storage garage in Colorado Springs. WARM and DRY.
That’s 18 years in Phoenix
That’s 13 years in C Springs
Total = 31 years

If I were to try to start the Jag, it may start but I suspect it would leak from every seal, gasket, hose and/or orifice – I’d have a rainbow of fluids under the car. And while – so far – I have not found any evidence of chewed/gnawed/damaged/destroyed wires, I have plenty of evidence of rodents being in residence.
Hence the total tear own and rebuild. It’s all good fun – – I learn something new everyday I’m out there.

1 Like
17

I see where you are coming from! :slight_smile: