SIII Won't Fire Up

Checking grounds first is the best advice possible and I am trying to find them all and clean them all.
I once found a ground issue where the connector and bolt to the chassis were in pristine condition (no corrosion, good connector, tight), but I disconnected and cleaned anyway, and when I bolted the ground screw back on the chassis, the problem was solved.

Helps to be well grounded!

Michael King
Purchasing
EAR Professional Audio Video
2641 East McDowell Rd, Phoenix, Az. 85008
800.473.6914 602.267.0600 fax: 602.275.3277
www.EAR.net

Ok, here’s a dumb question. How many keys do you have on your key ring? Back in the 80’s I had a series 3 daily driver. I had about ten keys on the ring and big jaguar fob. After a couple of years I developed an intermittent electrcal fault. It turned out that the weight of the keys bouncing up and down had loosened the cylinder and caused an intermittent short. Is your ignition switch hot? Is the key warm when you remove it? Could be the problem.

I’m anal when it comes to keys (and other things apparently) :laughing:
I have a car key or two if required for the E and a house key. Maybe a key fob. I “hate” big bundles of keys and therefore have about 5 house keys, one with each set of keys for my cars and motorcycles. Never thought of it being an issue like what you’re describing, but it makes sense.

Key rings, one for each vehicle and as few non car keys as possible. For the E-Type, two keys on a Jaguar key fob. For the other cars, each has the car key and a house key on an individual, plain key ring. I recall reading a warning years ago about big wads of keys and other stuff on key rings damaging ignition switches and I dislike carrying bulky things in my pockets.

Time for an update on Big Red’s ignition woes, found the problem. I installed a new Crane amp, it worked for a few minutes and died. Since I was confident I checked every logical failure possibility (shorts, voltage and resistor readings, etc.), and I wanted someone to give the car a good perusal for the next long trip, I took it to a mechanic in Phoenix I’ve never used before (Joe, the “E-Vent” sponsor). I bought a Pertronix unit and coil, and had them install it. Fired right up, then failed!
Ok, I’ll make this long story short: It was the tach!
The tach had some intermittent component shorting and was somehow killing the ignition amps (diagnosed as electrical failure by local shop that doesn’t repair them). Car runs great now, all good and I will send the tach in to one of the usual suspects (suggestions welcomed). Not Lucas’s fault, Smith’s fault! Man, I just never suspected the tach (or the Spanish Inquisition!) Thanks for all your comments and suggestions on this from a while ago.

Good morning Mike,
Glad you got that sorted! I’ve sent my tach to Moma’s in New Mexico and I’ve used Nisonger’s in New Your(?) as well. Moma’s cost about 225 IIRC earlier this year and it works well now.
Cheers,
LLynn

Hi Lynn-Thanks so much! I contacted Mo-Ma and will send in on Monday. They replace the whole circuit board and there will be no need for the in-line 10k resistor. Damn, its weird driving without a tach!

Michael King
Purchasing
EAR Professional Audio Video
2641 East McDowell Rd, Phoenix, Az. 85008
800.473.6914 602.267.0600 fax: 602.275.3277
www.EAR.net

Hi Mike,
I was pleased with them so I hope they do a good job for you! The first time I had my Tach done I took a picture of it, printed it and mounted where the tach should be. Yes it’s weird driving it with out :wink:
Cheers,
LLynn

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I never knew about MoMa. My speedo needs to go in and was planning on sending it to Nisonger. MoMa is 3 hours from me. A whole lot easier.