Just to verify, this is correct way to go?
As Paul said, they’re cad.
Phil
He said the one from the radiator is black
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Also don’t move the steering side to side with the spinners off, unless you watch the wheels. They will come off.
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If you are worried about getting it correct, you might want to replace the hose clamps also. The judges notice them pretty regularly.
I’m not worried and would only have my car judged to give me a guide list of what to work on. I’m in the process of changing clamps, but questioning my sanity.
The Jubilee clamps recommended are of a much higher quality than what’s on my car now. I ended up with an S2 set and am waiting for an S1 set. The band clamps for the vacuum and brake are another matter. They are in difficult locations, are not always easy to work with, and fit so tightly on the hoses before clamping down. Spreading them and trying to rescrew the fastening screw with such a tight fit is also near impossible. I’m not sure the band clamps are a functional upgrade, just a “correct” upgrade.
The issue is my engine bay is way off the rails. The bay is black for one, should be body color. Engine block, water pump housing, radiator pump, steering column, all painted grey and should be black. Exhaust manifolds white. Head is not painted gold. I’m repainting the exhaust manifolds, could paint the left side of the engine block, rad pipe and water pump housing. Right side of the block is out of the question to refinish w/o taking of the intake and carbs.
Then there is the age of many components. So, where am I going with this? Hanging a little new jewelry on an otherwise worn and poorly dressed woman? I think I have to step back, decide what might make me happier looking in the engine bay, but nothing short of an engine pull and serious detail is going to make her sparkle like the pretty ladies.
Not to mention the amount of money “those ladies’” command…
The Jubilee clamps are of high quality but will get deducted in a show. FYI, the early Jubilee clamps had a round 'cheese head" like the Cheneys. As brand is not required anymore in JCNA, clamps meeting the spec are useable without deduction. It all adds up and no use spending a lot on something that would be marginal compared to the rest. There is a JCNA class called Driven where the engine compartment and trunk are not judged. This allows stuff like Headers, Webers and other modifications to not count off.
Thanks. I know the Jubilees have the hex head rather than screw only for ease of installation. I went with them because they are closer to correct, are not perforated and preferred by some and that when I got them, they seem like a really substantial and nice clamp. For $24 for the whole cooling system it seemed worth the effort.
In your S1 4.2, how is your battery held in place? I would expect a battery frame around the top with threaded fastening J rods and fasteners (nut, wing nut, etc.). When I check SNG and XKs, the battery frame shows the rods (not J shape) on the ends. Mine are on the side and the J rod anchors do not look like a modification, attach to posts incorporated into the metal battery support framing bolted to the car. My battery top holder is clearly not correct. I have a plastic tray that sits on the metal battery support framing. Fluid can drain out of a hole that connects to a tube (mine missing). Having found a pic on the web, I looked and do see that I have the anchor points for the rods the vendors offer on the ends rather than sides. Did Jag offer the option of side or end mount?
The originals are J hooks. There is a catch for one welded on the inside of the sill end cap, and a louver cut for the hook on the bulkhead side. The problem is that the original metal frame for the top doesn’t fit many modern batteries. I use an Optima battery and found a purpose made base plate that locks the battery in place. The base bolts to my battery mount. This is a case of do whatever works for you.
I had my local sheet metal shop bend some 20 ga strips into angles that I mitered and welded to make a hold down. An angle grinder and crinkle paint covers a multitude of welding sins.
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As far as original, helmet style terminals and don’t forget there are spiral washers under the wing nuts.
Those are some beautiful looking engine bays!
My question is still, did the stock battery support allow for mounting on the sides or ends (different J hooks depending on side or end)? I’ll take a picture next time I have the battery out.
The original lower mounting points for the “J” hooks are at the mud shield and the bulkhead only.(front and rear) The V12 E-Type had them on the sides. (left and right)
So, I’ve got the mounting points front and rear, like you describe. However, I also have the additional mounting points for the sides. At some point, someone must have replaced the battery mounting frame (what the tray sits on) with one from a V-12 which would explain how I have both in an S1 4.2.
Thanks.
My late sII has the mounting holes on the sides.
LLoyd
Wherever space and time interact, there is information, and wherever information can be ordered into knowledge, and knowledge can be applied, there is intelligence.
Pavel Mirsky, mid 21st Century Russian General
You’re thinking that this is an original set-up for some other Jaguar?
Looks like a generic battery hold down to me. Maybe this one:
In my initial post on this subject, I stated this is clearly not a correct battery hold down. What does seem to be correct from another Jaguar is the battery floor structure that allows me to use SIDE J hooks on the provided anchor posts. So far it seems that was not a feature of an S1 4.2, but was in the S2 and V12.
What you posted is what I have. It would have been nice if the PO had left me the two tabs that the J hooks should go through!
Really nice looking, Dick.
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