Smoke machine hook up to 2003 XJ8


(Brian Ternamian) #1

Gents, I am trying to hook up a smoke machine to my 2003 X308, but I can’t figure out how to do it.

Can someone please tell me what the DIY procedure is?

Best, Brian


(motorcarman) #2

It depends on the machine and the adapters. When I worked at the Jaguar dealer when these devises were introduced, we had a FUEL CAP adapter. Later diagnostic adapters were attached to the PURGE VALVE.

You can monitor the pressure if you have the right equipment.

We were issued several TSBs and required to purchase the ‘smoke-machine’ for diagnosis.

310-09 P0455.pdf (88.5 KB)

Either way you need to have the CCV CLOSED. We used WDS (or later) IDS to energize the CCV (Canister Close Valve) so the system was CLOSED.

You can manually ‘pinch-off’ the hose or use 12V to close the valve.

The ‘smoke-machine’ can be used for other applications than the EVAP system, but that was the main concern.

bob


(Brian Ternamian) #3

Thanks for the info Bob, however I will be using a homemade smoke machine. These usually introduce smoke into the brake booster, but that looks untenable. I currently think I can use one of the load breather (part of full) on the top of the engine.

The gas cap idea is interesting too as I’m guessing it’s not too hard to make that.

Thanks again. Best, Brian


(Brian Ternamian) #4

Bob, as I said before I have a DIY smoke machine and I did try using the part load breather with no joy. Without an IDS or similar I don’t think I can close the CCV mostly because I don’t know where it is. If you can tell me perhaps I can pinch off the hose. Also, please tell me what Jaguar recommended you use to introduce smoke after the purge Valve (again don’t know where it is).

Obviously, I haven’t done this before and hope I can fix it. So, detailed step by step how to would benefit me and others because this is evidently a common problem. If you don’t want to write one up, please point to where I can find such info.

I have a new Jag gas cap on it, but it still shows the codes so I’m hoping the smoke machine idea will show something.

Best, Brian


(motorcarman) #5

First question is “WHAT DTCs are you reading”?
Are you chasing LEAN codes or EVAP codes??
Lean codes will require checking the INTAKE system.
EVAP codes will require checking the Tank/Cap, Purge Valve, Lines, Carbon Canister(s), and CCV.

bob


(Brian Ternamian) #6

Hi Bob, thanks for answering. I’m chasing lean codes - P0171 & P0174. I’m going to more rigorously check the intake system again.

If you know anything about an X350, I have another problem on that one also. The code is for a knock sensor and triggers ‘reduced performance’.

I’ve searched everywhere and it seems that the intake manifold has to come off. the change out the knock sensor/s. However, I found this illustration of the intake manifold and it seems there might just be a little easier way.

Do you (or anyone) think the knock sensors can be accessed through the front of the intake manifold by removing the throttle body and the unnamed part in the illustration below?

X350%20intake%20manifold%20exploded%20view
X350 intake manifold exploded view.jpeg812x756 111 KB

It might (should) be easier then removing the entire intake manifold which I have done on a 2003 X308 and was bear of a job.

I posted this in the EGR valley hose thread, but haven’t received any feedback yet. I thought I’d cover my bases.

Best regards, Brian


(motorcarman) #7

The knock sensor(s) is/are UNDER the intake manifold, not IN IT!!!

Forget using the smoke machine at the purge valve or fuel tank. That is for EVAP leaks.
You need to look for INTAKE leaks or MAFS/Oxygen sensor relationship faults.

You will need to look at STFT/LTFT if you cannot find any ‘false air’ leaks in the intake system.

bob


(Brian Ternamian) #8

OK, on the false air leaks - thanks. I’ll look into the STFT/LTFT info. What are the go-no go points here?

On the knock sensors, I only meant that, perhaps one could access them under intake manifold (as well as the valley hose) from within the hole left when the unnamed part above is taken off. It appears that one could just sneak into the hole and under the intake manifold to remove them with small wrenches. Obviously, I’m trying to figure out if I can get away with NOT removing the intake manifold. In the end, I’ll probably just have to do it and find out for myself as no concrete information has arisen.

On the X308 Jag put the KSs in accessible places removable from outside the manifold so you don’t have to remove it to change them. Were they too accessible and not made enough money for the dealerships so Jag changed it? Otherwise, why do it?


(motorcarman) #9

The throttle assy bolts to the SEALED INTAKE. If the bottom of the intake was OPEN there would be a MASSIVE INTAKE LEAK.

The fault of the P0171/174 or P0172/175 usually triggers when the fuel trim exceeds the ECM control threshold. (about 25% plus or minus)

When resetting the Fuel Trims, you need to pull the ECM fuse or disconnect the battery. Clearing the code will NOT set the trims to ZERO. The ECM still retains the values until power is lost.

The KS nuts and studs can be accessed through the AJ27 manifold 'runner’s to remove the sensors. Remove the nuts and then remove the studs with a ‘reverse-Torx’ (E socket) so the sensor can clear the manifold and pulled to the front of the engine.

Then ‘snake’ the new KS back into place and drop the stud through the hole in the sensor. Install the nut and tight to proper torque.
Early AJ26 have different sensors and do not use the stud/nut mount system.

I don’t think the X350 4.2 KS can be accessed this way.

bob


(Jeff) #10

“Good” fuel trims should be +7ish long and short should hover around zero. common intake leaks are at the front between the throttle elbow and the manifold and at the gaskets between the upper and lower parts of the manifold, these gaskets aren’t available from Jag but they can be had of Ebay, we always keep a set in stock, they are easily serviced when the manifold is off. The gaskets at the head and manifold will leak as well, the best way to handle the leaks is to remove the manifold and do a complete reseal, we usually sell a set of knock sensors with that job as well. better to bite the bullet and just deal with all of it at once and be done with it than to try individual “fixes”. The best way to smoke test a 4.2 is with an “easy intake” test connector from a company called Redline detection. https://redlinedetection.com/collections/automotive-diagnostic-leak-detection/products/easy-intake I have used these for years with good results. Also check the secondary air switchover valve vacuum line and be very careful with the fuel pressure regulator, the nipple breaks very easily.

Cheers, Jeff


(Brian Ternamian) #11

I assumed the individual intake manifold arches are all sealed. There is no reason I can think of for them to be completely filed so you cannot access the valley under them. However some pictures of the underside of supposedly X350 intake manifolds show a "honeycomb’ of plastic just filling the empty area. Does anyone know why that is so?

I do intend to do everything under there when I take the manifold off. It’s too ridiculous a job not too. Was that on purpose? I can’t understand why the top plastic arched part can’t be taken off separately from the bottom part of the manifold? All indications are it cannot. That seems like the most sane way to do things for valley access. Also are the green upper to lower manifold “O”-rings the ones with the black plastic things (locators?) on their sides the correct ones (expensive for O-rings) for the 2004 X350?

I already discovered the fragility of the FPR nipple and replaced the unit. I also discovered that the PCV rigid hose had been fixed inexpertly before and had some small oil deposits on the outside indicating leaking. Could that contribute to my woes - only P0333 code with restricted performance not P0171 or 174 yet. As I said I did this manifold job on an '03 X308 (leaking valley hose) I have so I know it’s not particularly hard, but not pleasant or easy. Maybe that’s by design.

Jeff, thanks for the info and URL for the Redline detection tools info, but since I am not a shop, I cannot justify the expenditure. However, I do appreciate knowing what solutions are out there.


(Jeff) #12

I share your feelings about what makes sense versus the way stuff is built, the difference between a dead skunk laying in the road and a dead automotive engineer laying in the road is there are skid marks leading up to the skunk. Yes the gaskets with the “locators” are for the upper manifold, some are green some are gray. The honeycomb you mention is sound insulation from the factory, some guys discard this as it makes looking for coolant leaks easier. check around, there may be a tool rental that has the Redline tool for rent.

Cheers, Jeff


(Brian Ternamian) #13

The honeycomb you mention is sound insulation from the factory, some guys discard this as it makes looking for coolant leaks easier.

Jeff, by this remark, I take it is no big deal to get rid of it for the same reason/s. Is there any perceptible sound increase - a more pronounced whoosh from the front, say? Dis Jaguar merely do for the same reason the didn’t install a real temp gauge - a sop for their more sybaritic customers?

Did any of the dead automotive engineers change this on the later Jags before they died violent road deaths? Is the honeycomb just placed there or is it connected in some way?

Best, Brian


(Jeff) #14

Hi Brian , sorry for the long wait on the reply, have been two wheeling around central Fl. for a bit. The honeycomb thingy (technically speaking) just sits there unattached, there isn’t any more noise with it out of the way. The way I figure it lets more air flow under there and carry away a little heat. I’m in the middle of doing the hoses under my supercharger as l type, the hose that failed gave up at the part covered by that pad…so no more sound insulation for me either, plus I enjoy the supercharger whine. And no the newer cars still have them as well.

Cheers, Jeff