hi Chaps. I have just removed my SNG Barratt Ignition Amplifier as I suspect it to be the reason that when hot the car misfires and then dies , until I let the thing cool down for 20 minutes or so and off we go just enough to get me home. Of course it could be Coil, or Ballast resistor but experience tells us it almost always the Amplifier. The thing is, I dont want to buy a whole new one if I can test if this is at fault and perhaps buy just the Flux Capacitor!!
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move it away from the heat
Andrew,
Change the module regardless with a GM one and only GM, it’s the only one that’s going to last and see.
If you can find the flux capacitor change that too.
The cost is close to nothing.
Can you please tell me, if you know, the specs of the flux capacitor ?
Yes this always helps.
On the other hand, when it’s mounted on the intake manifold it cools from the manifold that cools from the cold air passing through.
I see that the SNG Barratt Amplifier case has fins. This can be counterproductive as it will suck heat from the hot engine instead of cooling the amplifier.
With this kind of case the amplifier should be mounted outside the engine compartment, and somewhere that has some airflow, like besides the radiator.
If it was me, I would also put a large computer fan on top, you can power it from the amplifier itself.
Best,
Aristides
Thank you chaps. Has anyone got a spec for the GM module please? As this is the SNG upgraded unit maybe the GM will not be compatible with their Ballast resistor etc? Anyway, well worth trying if I can find the correct module. thx I await more information hopefully.
Ignition Amplifier
GM HEI module #10482820 - new number: # 19180771 (recommended)
Aristides
A quick way to test is to carry some ice cubes with you. When it sputters and dies, toss an ice cube on top of the fins to cool it down. If it restarts immediately, you have confirmed that the amp overheating is causing your issues.
BTW, I’m not convinced that the genuine GM amp is any better than any other. They are all a bit hit-and-miss, even the fancy aftermarket versions from Jeg’s or whereever. Choosing a reputable supplier is always a good idea, but in this case if a brand new one doesn’t work, just swap in another until you find one that does work.
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thank you chaps. I will try to source the GM module here in UK. Will report back.
When my Amp gave me troubles I first replaced it with an aftermarket one, only to leave me stranded on the highway a couple of months later… tow truck and all.
Got a GM module and, knock on wood, so far so good.
Best,
Aristides
Andrew,
A quick search of eBay.com (USA) found a seller that has several new OEM GM modules for $5 each. eBay item number 262944775192. No affiliation just passing along cost effective info. At that price one could afford to buy a couple of spares. Ha Ha
Happy Motoring,
Dick
'74 OTS
'99 XJR
1947 Stinson 108-1 “Voyager”
thanks for that. I will take a look now. Hope they are OEM GM!
Be sure to put heat sink compound under the new module (not dielectric grease).
Hopefully the new module will come with a small tube of the correct product.
-Ken
I have used a cooling spray similar to this product on Amazon:
to help localize faulty components.
Cheers … Ole