So I bought a red 1975 Xj6 3.4L. Manual gearbox with O.D

This is what bonnet mechanism looks like on my S2-74. There is a “hook” (“hake” in Swedish) preventing the bonnet from closing.

/Marc

Thanks Marc,
Haken in German, in my case there were bolts on the radiator and bonnet sides of this part and I tightened the bolt on the bonnet side until it was just tight enough to „lock“ the bonnet when open, but not too tight so it didn’t bind.

Im there, too: maybe a modern autobox would be preferable, for some, but the OE BW?

:nauseated_face:

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The law is an ass, Henrik - but it is still the law…:slight_smile:

Except for the engine, there is no difference between Jaguars - the cars themselves have the same driving performance. The regulation actually deals with two issues; emission and engine power/torque. The first has no regulations for cars first used/registered before 1975, but it’s unclear whether a newer engine in such cars is permitted - bureaucratic simplicity probably overrides common sense?

The second part is quite plain; higher power/torque than that specified is not permitted - even if the cars in question were, ex factory, identical except for engine size. And the inspectors has no discretion in the matter, though the complete rules may offer leeway - with some rigmarole…:slight_smile:

As an aside; there is no ‘correct oil’ for the engines, it is dependent on engine state/wear and climate. 20/50 is no appropriate at -40C…:slight_smile:

Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)

I know it’s a “what if” position for you but check this to be sure at some stage. The 4.2 Etype engine has about 10% more torque that the 3.8 in the same car - roughly up with the displacement. Paul.

Yeah, the 3.4L + manual transmission is nice, I didn’t feel any lack of power at all when driving. So, it is merely a question of “what if” as you say. The 3.4s are rare compared to the 4.2. At least here.

Of course I can’t find the torque figures for the 3.4 again.

and it seems I have the “new” 3.4 :slight_smile:

So far this is merely an academic exercise - Even though I must say I do enjoy doing just that :smiley:

It would be strange if you couldn’t put a much cleaner, much more efficient engine in an old car, or perhaps bureaucratic. What if I want to put an electric engine in? I mean, those torque figures…

They are, and don’t have much to do with the original 3.4s and are instead based on the 4.2 block design with all its flaws and improvements. I think it’s quite a good engine you‘ve got there nevertheless.

The German authorities quote 4198 cc for the 4.2L block and have the idle speed and tyre size wrong. So you‘ll have to work with the government data to avoid crisis :grimacing:

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It would likely fail, Henrik - clean, but too torquey. But fitting a windscreen wiper motor to drive the car would likely be legal in this context - no minimum power torque is mentioned in these regulations…

The power limitations is of course to ensure that the car has the wherewithal to cope with the increased power/torque. It’s rather funny; delivered ex-factory the V12 and the 6 have the same chassis - as I said; the law is an ass…:slight_smile:

Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)

Yeah law may be an ass, on the other hand, there are many asses building horrid things out of old poor cars without any thought on it stopping or turning, just going in a straight line fast while making a lot of noise :slight_smile:

So, fingers crossed, I won’t need to replace the engine. And if I do, finding one might be easier than fighting the bureaucracy :smiley:

1 Like

That’s an understatement, Henrik…:slight_smile:

Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
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Henrik,

welcome to the forum and sorry to be somewhat late to this thread! Just responding to your info that the car was originally blue: this sounds surprising as your interior pic shows a perfect Moss Green interiour period correct with narrow pleats and fitted only to Fern Grey, Sable and British Racing Green cars. Either someone did a very good job swapping out the full interior (as visible in your pic) or the exterior parts where you spotted the blue color aren’t original (Dark Blue came with Russet, Dark Blue or Biscuit interior).

No AC is correct judging from your dials with the temp knob sitting right. You have a very unmolested car with even the twin-axle radio facia still unfettered.

Nice car anyway - go out and drive it as much as you can! These cars suffer more from not being used than from use! Just keep it away from salt, snow and let it dry after use in the rain.

Best

Jochen

75 XJ6L 4.2 auto (UK spec)

Jochen,

Thanks for the note on the colour combinations. I looked the car over in more detail during the weekend, and the thing that led me to believe it was originally blue was the left hand front fender being blue under the sable? green paint. The bonnet likewise. On the other hand, the bonnet has holes in it that perhaps means it is originally a Daimler bonnet I suppose, a Daimler is the one jaguar I have seen that has chrome trim running up the middle of the bonnet up to the wind screen. So, replacement fender and bonnet at least :slight_smile:

Other parts of the car still green does not have blue paint under it.

Some of the carpets are in good condition, others are worse off.

I did some small things to it, like doing a compression test. Cold engine.

highest compression being ~140, and lowest being ~120, the ratio being ~14 percent. According to youtube video wisdom, 10-15% ratio is tolerable.

I will get some cheap leak down test tool and do a leakdown test. Never done it before, might be fun :slight_smile:

A neighbor who’s an old mechanic/race driver figures the engine will be fine with a good service and new gaskets, perhaps some work on the valves/valve seats.

The spark plugs was cleanish in cyl. 2-6. Had black gooey oil in the threads in cyl. 1. (cylinder closest to radiator used as index 1.) cyl 6 had a VOLVO spark plug in it :face_with_hand_over_mouth: The other plugs of some Russian brand I’ve never heard of… Brisk. Will get new plugs, cheap enough from sng barratt.

The cam cover vent hose, no picture for some reason, was full of black grime. I didn’t remove it fully since the tubes going to the carburetors are stiff as wood.

The oil filter is of the older type.

Car doesn’t have an oil cooler.

The car doesn’t leak while standing around waiting for the next outing. But being hot, stopping at the garage door, engine still running while opening the door, the car leaves not a too small puddle.

This is after one week:


The bigger splotch is reddish in color, but smells like engine oil.

And the car is from Amsterdam

It’s all cut off. I will go into the archives and look for a strut solution.

NGK BP5ES are widely available in most auto parts shops!

2 Likes

I tightened that bolt, and did not have the yellowish clip, it was the simplest solution by far and it worked.

No oil cooler is alright and your compression results are good. No real need for a leak down tester but they are fun and can help in diagnosing. Your engine appears to be alright mechanically, maybe a seal thing but unlikely to be a real problem.
The ngk are good plugs. The reddish oil is either steering or your gearbox if that oil is red. Where is the puddle coming from?

Ah, and a very nice dealer sticker. More 50-60‘s than 70‘s

The carbs have a naming scheme. HD is H type (horizontal?) with diaphragm, HS is separate float and HIF is integral float. If the float chamber is there but not rigidly bolted to the carburetor it would be a HS as far as I know. The number is for the size in so many fractions of an inch, 8 is 2 inches and so on.

Cylinder 6 is at the FRONT of the engine, confusing but that’s what they decided for the xk.

Thanks :slight_smile: I will tighten down the bolt.

The slightly red puddle is a little bit to the left of the middle and a bit back. Not so far back as to suggest gearbox fluid. So, perhaps a leak in the servo system…

I will get a larger white tarp or plastic sheet and when I park on it, mark out where the wheels are.

To the left and back could be as simple as the hydraulic hoses to the rack. Good idea, this is what we do to localize drips :slightly_smiling_face:

Maybe you need to substitute the yellow plastic with a washer so it is tighter.

I figure it is a HS8 just looking in the parts catalouge from SNG barrat.

The float chambers are there, on the side… or how to say… On the left side of the left carb and right side of right carb… Perhaps separate, so, HS then…

Adam from the youtube channel “living with a classic” listed a book on SU carburettors, wasn’t too expensive. I guess I’ll need it :slight_smile:

The choke is replaced with a petrol valve, yes. There’s also another petrol filter in the engine bay.

I’ll examine the petrol filter in the boot next time.