So Is It R-12 or R134a?

Hi Guys,

Well, after enduring 95+ temps here the past week w/o a.c. in Harlem at risk of my own health, I finally decided to try to resolve the issue of her only blowing hot air on my own :sweat:

I checked online first and found rave reviews for the popular “A.C./ Pro” recharge kit that I had seen for sale in W-M and all over the place in other stores. I plunked down $38.00 and set out to work on Harlem with it. I won’t mention how my first attempt with that bottle went, other than to say I think I ended up launching the first R134a missile in my neighborhood (thank God I had my reading glasses and gloves on at the time!). :roll_eyes:

Anyway, after returning to the task with another bottle of A.C./Pro and $25 more later, I did a much better job, although I’m still not “feeling the cool.” (yet) :frowning:

Before returning to check the low side pressure tomorrow one final time and see if I need to add more (or a bottle with leak detector additive), I happened to call my tech to chat with him about my rocket launching episode. However, when I told him I had put in the 134a, he was speechless. He claimed that, after inspecting my a.c. system a few days ago, it clearly had a label attached to it that said “R-12 Only”. I responded that I could not see how that it is possible Harlem would have an old R-12 system, as (1) per federal law, all cars sold in the U.S. beginning with '95 M.Y. MUST use 134a and not R-12 and (2) the connector on the A.C. / Pro unit will only attach to a low-side connector of a system that uses 134a. Moreover, I had seen no such sticker when I was working with the system. :astonished: The tech offered to drop by my office tomorrow and show me the sticker which he said he saw.

I’ve checked online with several different refrigerant manufs’. and auto parts stores’ websites, and they all show the 2000 XJ8 uses 134a (and approx. 23 oz. of it + 6.75 oz. of PAG 150 oil).

So which is correct??? :thinking:

Pretty sure 1991 was the last year Jaguar used R12. Maybe 1992. Either way, not even the last of the XJ40’s used R12.

Also, since R12 and R134a systems use different service hose connectors, the fact that the DIY R134a kit even hooked onto the service valves says that R134a is the juice to use.

Thanks for the reply, Win. :smile:

Well, I take it that my system must have a leak in it, as when I went to put the second can of AC /Pro into her (after I launched 80% of the first one inadvertently into near-earth orbit :roll_eyes:) I found that the system’s pressure (low-side) was back down to square one again (“0”). A few seconds of pressure on the trigger and she was up to the red zone, but then the pressure very slowly would leak back down and, after a few minutes, be to the yellow zone. I would put more in to bring her up to red, and back down again she’d go, over and over and over. :confounded:

Dilemma now is do I buy the cheap $10 leak detection kit (glasses and UV penlight) + R134a w. leak detector in it at W-M. and look for a leak, or (2) just go right to the AC / Pro stuff that claims to include “heavy duty” sealant in with the R134a, one which will even supposedly plug up metal holes in the system, if any? :confused: That latter stuff makes me a little nervous about whether it could cause some damage to the system, frankly. :thinking:

Think your system is leaking too badly for any of the easy seal products plus many react with moisture and can plug up contaminated driers.

So, go looking for an oil stain on the a/c components. The escaping freon will carry compressor oil out as it flees the system.

Also, a dishsoap and water solution will often show leaks if there is any pressure left in the system.

Common places for leaks are the joints between components, seal at the pully on the compressor and rock damage to the condensor. Less common is a failure of the evap coil.

The dye works very well for detecting leaks if you don’t have an actual leak
detection device (sniffer).

The service fittings are also common leak spots.

FWIW Ikeep mine running all the time, always have on any car and other than a clutch freezing on the current X300 I’ve never had top top up or had a failure.
It keeps everything lubricated and I believe avoids problems.