Soft-top (boot) hold down straps - Does any one make/sell them?

Actually, the illustrations in the manual were more helpful than the instructions.

In particular - note how that rear corner sticks out. That forward most section of the top is pushed rearwards, does not get tucked in & forward.

It is easy (possibly even logical & obvious) to tuck that section in & forward - but that puts a lot of bulky top in the area where the straps should pass thru (and where we stow our duffels bags for travel).

That piece sticking out at the corner get folded back against itself when the hood stick cover (top boot) is installed. Or, as the instructions read:

Complete the folding of the hood material rearwards and fold in the corners.

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philip
you are missing the chrome rings for the pass thru hole.
ed

Not for long, they are scheduled to be here on Thursday.

Thanks for pointing that out! I’ll try out the different folding when I see the car this weekend. I need to replace the plastic bushings in the steering column that just gave out last weekend. The steering wheel is very floppy without them. Fortunately, an easy job and only $8 for the bushings.

This brings up an issue I have been wondering about on my S2. I cannot pull that corner back, as it is attached to the frame as shown in this photo.

Should I cut the top where it is attached under the seal? Where was this flap supposed to be attached? I am assuming my top was either installed wrong or made wrong, but I certainly wish to be sure before I cut anything. It does work as is. Do others have theirs attached like mine? Is there a reason, better sealing? Would this cause more or less drumming, as mine does drum quite a bit.

Yours looks okay to me.

The ‘corner’ that gets pulled back is from a section well forward of that (over the window).

Here is my old top folded incorrectly. The dotted line shows how that section should be pulled back forming the corner that sticks out:

Done correctly it looks awkward to my eye - but fits under the stick cover and leaves more room behind the seats.

George, mine is not like yours. My original photo probably does not show it very well. Mine cannot be pulled out per your green line, as it is attached to the rail at my added red line. Yours is only attached near the corner near the latch.

David,

I never throw anything out.
As before, my June 1966 OTS was obtained in 1975 with 18000 miles from new, from original owner in Wales who only registered car for the four-summer-months each year, stored in a heated garage the other eight-months.
Whist in England I went over car in minute detail re anything not 100% original, or needing replacing, so bought everything needed from a Jaguar Spare Parts outlet in London - factory parts and second-hand parts only, pre the days of aftermarket reproductions.
One of my two hood straps was broken, with the broken off end still attached to its bulkhead stud, so I sought to buy a new one, and clearly wanted it to be identical to the other unbroken strap. Attached picture is of my original 1966 broken strap-end:-

Now memories can be funny - I recalled this as being a pale-mid-green, but re-seeing actual strap would say more just a mid-green, but to try and show colour better in photo are accurate samples of three XK greens, pastel-green, sueded green and BRG, none really close, but some indicator of shade.

But no way would I call this DARK GREEN as you advise.

Indeed in 1975 when I ended up purchasing TWO new straps, all that was available in factory packaging - albeit a replacement part made 9 years after my car was built, only BLACK was available, so that’s what I purchased and they are still fitted to my car. If there had have been GREEN ones available, even DARK-GREEN, I would have preferred them.

So if the collective Suffolk, Turley and Swan worked their from 1964 and they are adamant DARK GREEN, there must have been a second supplier/source or whatever also supplying the mid-green as was fitted in June 1966, or maybe there memories have ‘faded’ (to use a pun).

Per chance - do you have any (hard) evidence of DARK GREEN straps?
But I do accept that my BLACK ones dating 1975, although genuine factory spare parts, may well not have been authentic/original during E-type production - haven’t really looked into this issue of colour since 1975.

Roger

Hi Roger

You are correct - I should check my notes rather than rely on my memory. The leather used was a green which I think Jaguar referred to as ‘Suede Green’ code VM 3510 (VM = Vaumol) used from 1935 to 1974. My lasting memory was peering into the box of straps that Stan had made up which made them look a dark colour in the absence of good light.

Your original is obviously correct as I have seen it on many cars but further research may prove it to be a different colour to VM 3510. An original leather sample book would help…

Regards

David

David,

AS accurate as colour shades are with Leather (not the consistency of paint, but tend to be in die-lots) I agree, you have pretty well nailed it - re the actual colour shade being - SUEDE GREEN 3510.
The actual leather grain of the hood-strap itself is not the heavily textured Vaumol Luxan grain, but is a very smooth pressed finish as is evident in photo with its pressed-in border.
The following photo shows to factory CONNOLLY Leather sample books, the one showing the green side I date from 1964, the one showing the identical labelling I date from 1961, but I have about six more of these books from 1950s/60s and the Suede Green colour albeit not 100% identical, is pretty consistent, and as per photo pretty good colour match with my original 1966 strap end.

I guess the only residual question is was SUEDE GREEN 3510 used exclusively 1961 to 1974, or was there age related colour changes or options colours.

Roger

Reading through this thread has brought out the paranoia in me. My hold down straps were broken when I got the car 9 years ago, so I’ve never had functioning straps. At speeds up to 70 mph (I would never exceed the posted, legal speed limit…), I’ve never had the folded hood, with or without the hood bag make any upward movement. After reading some of the above comments, I got to thinking that if Jaguar thought that they were necessary, then I should have working ones in place. However, cheap SOB that I am, it makes me wince to think about spending $65-85 for a couple pieces of hardware that I’ve never needed and only can be seen when the hood is up and fastened in place. I had some scrap leather lying around, so I made a couple of straps, using the hardware off of the broken original ones. It took about an hour of my time, which is pretty worthless when you get down to it, and I now have functioning straps that give me the piece of mind even though they wouldn’t meet concours standards.

Me neither - maybe Bernoulli was wrong? Nah.

Nice work to get a functional and not half bad looking solution.

my original vs the remake as close as my shop could do.
it will probably stay in this position until it dry rots like the original did.
I never use them. the parade boot is always on and it uses the tenax studs already.

Interesting (to me anyway) that the ‘at rest’ LTD stud on yours is down on the edge of the header and not up on the main part (like many pictures and the illustration in the manual).

Mine is like yours in that regard:

I was thinking mine was incorrect but seeing another with that same configuration suggests there may have been variations.

my 69 series 2 is also down on the edge.
ed

Same place on my '67 Series 1.

This is replying to a somewhat old thread, but the information here was very useful to me. I’ve been putting on some pandemic finishing touches lately. The car (1E10177) has not had hood straps (BD.20660) since I bought it in 1978. It had what I am pretty sure was a replacement hood when I bought it, and I had that replaced in 2004. I bought a pair of new straps from Moss and installed them. I saw no way they could reach the LtD studs, and an internet search brought me here. The great insight was the correct way to fold the hood when lowering. It’s right there in the Driver’s Handbook, page 30. RTFM, what a concept. With the hood stowed as directed, the straps connect just right.




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Yes, the manual is a good place to start, but often the last place we look.