Some mk7 enquiries

Thanks for that John. , I’ve had a link to a company in Swansea , which is about 40 miles away , closer than New York , but I will have to wait and see .

I had no idea you were not in the USA. You might want to add your location information to the Jag-Lovers forum website.

its a dual mechanical oil pressure/temp gauge…is the oil pressure gauge working ?

if so, cheaper to get repaired

I wont operate a vehicle without critical gauges, like a plane !

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Thanks for that Tony , yes I’ve seen a WhatsApp live call , so was able to ask questions at the same time sills are good as is all of the underside . I have agreed a price . Yes the oil guage is working.regards Ken

Hi Tony , the cylinder head on the mk7 I’m buying has been changed , numbers don’t match . Is this a disaster ? Bit disappointing !

No, I would say it hardly matters on a MK7 at all, in terms of value, although a completely unmolested original car is best of all imo, make a difference if it was an XK120

Let us know the number and we can tell you where it came from. Might even be a plus.


B 9004-7

Many thanks

What do you think of this paint damage??
Regards Ken



Oops, a lot of filler came loose, probably is started rusted underneath.
Does not look good with so much filler.

This is often the result of the rubber sunroof drain tubes rotting away . Consequently the water is drained into body and rots out the C post and surrounding area big style.

ARGGGH I’m on the window ledge ,. Ready to jump !!!

It’s a standard “A” head from another Mark VII.
Mark VII engines ran from A1001-A9999 and then B1001-B9999, so that one was the 17,003rd down the line.
They made 16805 through 1953 so that one was in Jan or Feb '54.

The suffix -7 indicates the donor engine had 7:1 compression flat top pistons, but that doesn’t mean anything for you; the suffix on your block serial number would indicate what pistons were and still may be in it. It is a stamped number located by the oil filter.

Better peel off that flaking paint and at least dab some damp proof primer on it to stabilize it until you can begin the body work. It’s nothing that can’t be fixed, just somebody didn’t do it right before.

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Many thanks Rob , you are truly a mine of information , guess I can climb in off the window ledge !

red flag, that is filler over a wide area, I cant make out where it is?

I forgot…yes, the sunroof drains can be a real mess

I personally would want pics or appraisal of inside the sunroof, if the deal has not already been done

Thank you Tony , money has not changed hands yet . I will look into that !:thinking:

essential…the sunroof drain structure is integral with the roof structure and has 4 tubes brazed on to the drain box, which run 4 x 6ft rubber pipes down the A & C pillar

several problems arise

  1. blockage anywhere in the tubes cause overflow

  2. if the tubes at the the top corner are rotted away, that is very bad

  3. where the rubber tube contacts a sharp metal edge where it exits the pillar, after 50years, that will be holes, so water leaks into the area from the sunroof drain

discoloration of the headlining is a telltale sign (but it can be completely hidden)

it cannot really be inspected without a lot of work

It’s not just the sunroof drain pipes. Very often you find that the whole of the sunroof frame is rotton. That’s also a very nasty job.
With that level of visible corrosion, plus a load more which you can’t see, I’d be thinking of giving this one a miss. (Or getting back on that window ledge).
I know, I’ve had a Mk9 for 20 years!

I agree, seen them rotted out.

One guy I know, a retired master panel beater, decided it would be too difficult, and welded the sunroof up instead

Thanks for the invaluable advice , as always guys , going to look into this a LOT more closely :rage:

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