Spot Welding Instrument Panel Weld Nuts

McMaster-Carr calls them weld nuts.
They hold the side cubby boxes to the main panel.
They seem to be spot welded in place. One has come off.

I have a good MIG/TIG machine, but not a spot welder.
I had an idea to drill a hole or two and tack weld it from the back side.
Or I could buy a spot welder.
So how would you chaps fix this one?

Is the “weld nut” threaded right through?
May be possible to insert a short stud, with thread lock liquid applied, drill the plate and fit a nut on the back, rather that applying too much heat with welding.

If welding is not a option , try 3M panel bond

Tig weld,1/16" electrode. Minimal HAZ.

Excellent, several great ideas, I knew this group would have new ways to skin this cat.
The weld nut is indeed threaded 2BA all the way through. I will drill the hole and attach it with a screw from the back side. I will practice my TIG welding on some scrap before deciding if I want to try it on this panel, being aware of the heat affected zone. Otherwise bonding with 3M or JB Weld are options.
My new wiring harness from Rhode Island Wiring has arrived, so I’ll be starting that phase soon.

I’m getting ready to purchase a wiring harness also. I’ve looked into Rhode Island Wiring and I’ve recently been told about Auto Sparks which seem to be about $400 less. Is there a reason you went with RIW?


As I bought the same at least five years ago (albeit sonewhat different for a coupé) I will be very interested to hear how you think it compares to the original cables, connectors etc.

I have not installed any of it yet, and I am planning to add the wires necessary for a tow bar (I have one original extra I got from Stoneleigh) and as I have very few original wires to compare with.

Talking about the instrument panel, did you also get new wires for it?

AFAIK that work was not done by Jaguar at the time, but the whole panel arrived with instruments and wiring from Smiths Ltd ready to be mounted onto a car.


I had previously bought a wiring set from Rhode Island for my XK120, and was very happy with the quality workmanship and the included instructions. People on the XK forum also speak highly of their quality. I don’t have any other way to compare side by side, and I’m only going to do this once. So I decided the people that charge the most probably do the best product.

Ok, that’s reasonable. What harnesses are you getting? What was the total?

The “2BA Holding Screw from the Back with TIG” method was successful.

I bought these harnesses:
0724 Dash engine headlight
0725 Dash engine body
2102 Flasher unit
2098 Door switches
0731 Rear turn signal
0726 Taillight
0730 Reverse license lights
total $1779

My original instrument panel wiring is good so I didn’t get a new harness.

HI Rob,

Great! Nice success with the TIG welding and thank you for those photos! :+1:

I was trying to buy a complete original instrument panel with instruments form Stoneliegh a couple of years ago, but the guy seleling thjem was moving abroad (to the Middle-East IIRC) and wanted to sell ALL the MKV parts he had. It would have been ok otherwise, but I had no means to get the stuff transported, only what I could fit inside my suitcase. Anyways that was also a complete instrument panel, like yours, with original wiring. The only part I really wanted was the lighting switch handle/lever as I have a new repro XK120 lever (different) and a later MKVII switch complete with lever, as well as an original spare MKV switch but no correct lever. I did get the correct chromed slotted screw from Cordell a few years ago.


Thanks for the wiring list. Real nice job on the tig weld, I wish my welds were as precise as that!

Hi Rob, great to see weld result. You might want to check gently the other posts. All four Mark V dash panels in my possession have at least one of the six posts detached (upper left post detached on all, plus others).