SS Vent Windows

The vent windows are held in place by these brass frames tucked in to the doors.


It doesn’t look to me like they ever had any chrome on them.
Is that right?

The window frames are chromed.
I had a time getting the glass out of them, 85 year old hard rubber, tried a razor blade and a very sharp knife, wasn’t getting anywhere, until I realized I could get a screwdriver into the end gaps between the glass and chrome and gently pry them apart. The chrome frame is flexible enough if you do it gently.


The glass is marked TOUGHENED and some other half faded words …LT TITE.

The posts are held by 2 screws but I couldn’t get them loose, so I’ll see if the plater can work with them as they are.

Yes, the frames were always bare.

Peter

This is a long shot suggestion Rob, but does the half faded wording actually say GILT EDGE as well as TOUGHENED on the glass. Here is a photo of an SS Vent window I took in the UK when I was comparing it to my MK IV:

Yep, that’s it. Gilt Edge. It’s on all 4 door windows and the rear window.

The front windshield is Triplex.


I don’t know and couldn’t find a decoding for all the marks here, but I’m pretty sure the 55 means it was made in 1955.
The 2 dots above the E in TRIPLEX might indicate the month or quarter.
The heart means British Vehicular Safety with the letters BVS arranged artistically.
If anyone knows what some of the other marks mean, I would love to hear it.

Grace’s Guide says Gilt Edge Safety Glass of Staffordshire was a subsidiary of Lancegaye Safety Glass of Wembley, until Lancegaye was taken over by Triplex Safety Glass in 1939.

Got my chrome back from the plater.
The square ends of the pivot shafts on the vent window frames had too much plating on them, wouldn’t fit in the square holes in the crank mechanisms, so I had to take the belt sander to them.

Putting the vent windows together with new rubber from Worcester.
Remember there is a left and right window frame.
I opened the package and realized it did not include the rubber piece where the glass tucks into the C-Frame.


So I made my own.
Cut a sheet of rubber .059" thick x 1" wide x 19" long
It tucks into the C-Frame channel. It bunches up at the corners, so you have to cut 3 notches at the bottom corner and 1 notch at the top corner.

Tuck it in but don’t trim it yet. It bunches out where the lower shaft is attached.
Now the next step is best done in the kitchen sink with a couple of inches of soapy water. Dunk it, then push in the glass while making sure the rubber doesn’t get out of position.


If the rubber tries to sneak out in places, look in the kitchen drawer for a metal spatula to push it back in. The excess at the bottom is trimmed off with an Exacto knife.

I trial fitted my vertical channels because there is a left and right twist to the top mounting tab.
The rubber seal for the vertical channel is also best done in the kitchen with soapy water. Remember there is a left and right side. The curl turns inward, so the glass touches the outside of the curl as it closes.
At first I tried pushing in the seal with a screwdriver but no go.
So I thought, the factory guy doing this job all day every day must have had a better technique. It has to slide in from the top end. So I tried.
But there is a rivet near the top of the channel poking through both sides. I can’t figure out what this rivet is there for. There’s one at the bottom too. Maybe it’s supposed to hold the felt on the roll-up window side. I tried to pull the rubber seal past it and no go, had to give up. So I ground off most of the rivet on the vent window side with a thin die grinding wheel. Then I was able to pull the rubber seal in with long nose pliers and dish soap.


As you pull, a property of rubber called Poisson’s Ratio comes into play. As you stretch the rubber it reduces the cross sectional width, making it easier to pull. It springs back with the help of the dish soap when you’re done. Then you rinse it off.

The vent window seals from Worcester are left and right, to allow for the opening of the vent window

and are molded to fit in the brass channel, but not around the curve. There are ripples. I’m thinking they need a notch cut here.

What do you chaps think, cut a notch? Has anybody done this before?

There is also molded into the rubber what looks like a drain groove and a hole in front of the pivot hole, with a corresponding hole in the brass channel below it.
Anybody know what that is for?

I decided to cut notches in the outer edge seal. This is best done with an Exacto knife and the window closed.
I think the groove and hole must be a water drain.

For installing the glass in the frame, an alternative method is to wrap the rubber over the glass, then push it onto the channel. That worked better for me with the second one. You have to get the glass inserted far enough so that the edges are in line with the ends of the chrome channel.

Yes, the hole in the recess is to trap water to help prevent it from running inside when you open the quarter vent. It drains into the door so check that it can continue through into the door. Unfortunately it helps promote the door to rust. Make sure the drain holes in the doors are clear. It is a shame the moulded curve is not accurate enough. I didn’t cut or trim the lip and will live with it. The problem I have is that the rubber is a bit too ‘full’ and it is difficult to close the vent completely. I think it is another dismantling task.