SS100 at Gullwing in NY - any thoughts?

[quote=“Rob_Reilly, post:57, topic:349952, full:true”]
Terry, I’d love to see this picture if you can scan it and if it is not under copyright.

[/quote

Hi Rob,

In Barry Price’s book he shows this photo of the 2.5 litre DKV 120 with a rather obvious cut and paste to extend the bonnet length. He suggests this was a car used to experiment with IFS. Perhaps true but not very likely when this photo was taken.

DKV is a Coventry registration from December 1938 yet the car has the narrow waist line chrome. I suspect it was a prototype for the 1940 cars although it still has pleated seats.

I wonder if Terry’s photo has wire wheels?

Peter

Curiously , the fog lamps are painted [ black?] and appear to be FT 57s , I recall tractors used FT 57 and were painted : >(

No the MKV prototype has disc wheels as per MKV just a MKIV body shell

“silver-black” leather I have only ever seen one perfect match of this in 30 plus years and it was made by Connollys to an Australian order. Done properly it is a true masterpiece

Terry

John Clucas has had it done recently for his SS100 . You could ask him for a look.I’m sure he’d oblige.
it does have some drawbacks [ the original ] in that the silver wash tends to wear off leaving the wearing faces more black.

"silver wash tends to wear off " the reason it does that is that the leather doesn’t have the grained pressed deep or heavy enough into the hide if it was the same depth as the old 30’ 40’s 50’s “Antique” grain Connolly leather the silver is well below the surface and much less prone to wear off

Great advice all. Thank you.
I’m familiar with the “wash-off” problem on two-toned leathers. My Mercedes 280 Cabriolet has cognac (tan/brown pebbly) leather which looks great until you use a strong cleaning product and wipe out the darker color.

I’ve contacted the resurrected Connelly company about silver-black and will post what I hear. I have some original Jaguar paint and leather samples for comparison. The pigskin color is attractive too.
Dave

Greetings All,

Dave, are you looking for an SS-badged block or an early pushrods Jaguar logo’d one?

Hi. I’m looking for a 3 1/2 block with the SS logo cast on the exhaust side. The original block in #39064 was replaced about 1960 with a Mark V 3 1/2 block and internals. The head seems to be original. Ideal would be an “M” engine number.

Back in the 70’s when I was restoring my 1948 3 1/2 DHC, Rich Foster and I drove around rural England for a week buying up old parts from dealers and service shops. We still owe our wives big-time for dragging then around. And British Air likely still has us on a screening list for trying to carry on a dismantled 150S head… Rich bought his SS2 on that trip. But I still have a few pre-war parts like bearings and gaskets - I guess I knew I’d someday have the time to do another restoration like this.

Dave

Rob, the 2.4 used Solexes, but not like those.

The cam covers look odd. The edges are more sharp like a corner than the rounded edge we’re used to seeing. Even the missing stud covers didn’t look like this. Notice the cover is flat across, not curved. Maybe it’s just the picture?

Odd.

Good Luck, I’ve seen while cars bought for the block’s logo!

Thanks to a lead from Ed Nantes, I’ve acquired 3 1/2 litre engine #M202E.

Has anybody seen an SS100 tank made by Classic Metal Shaping? The previous owner had a new tank made for #39064, and it doesn’t have any ribs.

This forum is great! Dave

I have seen repro tanks . of varying quality.

Many claim to try and improve on the original but I suspect they are trying to simplify the manufacture

The last one I did [ for the LW car] was an original , It had been dented in the ribbed face.
They are basically held together with solder. We melted the solder out progressively and separated the two main halves . There was a bit of corrosion in the botto of the tank proper which then had anew piece welded in . WE ended up making a new ribbed rear face [ and side panels which were also beyond repair .

The trick with petrol tanks is that when made or metal [ modern ones are plastic] they used turnplate a heavier gauge version of tin plate . Unfortunately as th e major car manufacturers don’t use it , it’s not available. [ here at least ]
The coating aids soldering and retards corrosion.

before assembly , I took the sparate parts to th e platers and had them plated with cyanide copper , a thin coating

This made soldering a breeze and ensure a thorough flow and also will hep with internal corrosion .
It was easy to re- assemble and I’m happy with the result

One needs to make sure any repro tank has the correct fittings
The drains and filters are the same as XJ 6 S1 and the sender unit has the 3 BA captive threads and importantly the side panels have the reinforcements for mounting the rear mudguards.and tail lamp[s]

. Also the feed pipes for both sides of the tank
left to their own devices it’s likely some of this will be missed .

Hello

Re a SS100 petrol tank there is a good article by David Gardiner on the All Metal Shaping web site
http://allmetalshaping.com/showthread.php?t=9410 that shows the rebodying of a SS100 & the building of a petrol tank.

Cheers Peter

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It looks like very nice work . although looking at the humps infront of the driver and passenger , I wonder if the windscreen will fit ,. I had some pics from a UK owner who’d had a 100 skinned , possibly the same car, and I commented on the same issue. Later the humps had to be reshaped. It’s the hardest part of the panelling as the metal curves in two directions , but one convex and one concave.
The tanks looks really good and seems to have been done carefully to get all the bits right . I recall seeing one were they’d neglected the stiffening ribs at each side and the weight of the number plate and tail lamp crackedthe panel very quickly

There is a post on the XK list about someone having difficulties with a repro XK tank because the maker didn’t bother to use the original BSPP fitting.
With the ’ humps’ on my new car , I got lazy and cunning. i measured up a 100 and realised the humps were a geometric shape. In other words they could be metal spun
metal spinning would normally require the use[ making] of a collapsable former , but as each hump only covers 90 degrees , I said them well just cut the pieces off. Much cheaper and the former can be re-used to make more .
Starting with 2mm alloy it ends up about 1.6 mm when spun but the spining makes it hard . The end result only needed to be trimmed around where it meets the ’ flat’ scuttle panel a nd eased in and welded

I now have them spinning up cycle guards alloy for me which will only need to be cut to length, the ends shaped and the edges wired. Swage lines already spun in

The same company also spun me up SS backing plates in mild steel , and in alloy…

Regarding SS100 unusual coachwork look on this Pycroft Jaguar SS100 !

What’s the story on this special-bodied SS-100 which was at Pebble Beach in 2013? (At that time it was a part of the North collection located in Maryland, US)

.

Ron

It looks similar to this by Saoutchik
In this case it seems yet more alligators have made the ultimate sacrifice to SS steering wheels
Where’s PETA when you need them?

It would be interesting to know what the brownish car is and whether it came with only aero screens and no roof and whether the object behind the rear wheel is in fact the handbrake .
Rear parking sensors would seem to be a useful addition . and it would seem to be a big stratch to reach the boot itself with any sort of suitcase.
And number plates . who needs number plates esp as there seems no where to put them.

This car has been around like this since the late 1960’s I found an old add for it in Hemmings.

Whilst fitted Saoutchik badges I am not convinced they actually did it - no early history
there is/was also an SS90 with similar style body work and in addition to the 2 SS100’s pictured there is at least 1 further car that looks like this terry