Good choice. Torx drive is the future.
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me too, recently built a harwood deck using SS Torx
my bespoke front fence, the sun & rain works the old nails out, they get SS Torx with an impact gun
the 50yr old hardwood Oz Eucalypt framing timber in my home is now too hard for any hand driven nail, has to be pre-drilled, the drill bit gets very hot
I use those too but not stainless. I like that they give you fresh bits in each box. One of the rare uses I have for the torque setting on my cordless, to stop the screw disappearing into softwood.
The similar blue masonry screws are less success full IME.
Erik did his deck decades ago.
There are lots and lots of very high-tech, high-strength aeronautical and military bolts made from stainless alloys. You are never going to see these in a common threaded fastener catalog. If you know what you are looking for, you can find them for pennies on the dollar as military surplus on eBay.
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That’s all I use, any more: best thing, ever!!!
Bodark (Osage Orange) is like that: there are fence posts of it, around Oklahoma, 100 years old, still good, and harder than the hubs of Hell.
You can machine the stuff, when it’s old!
For years, you couldn’t get screws like this at all, at least not without a special order and paying through the nose. Then for years you could only get these screws with square drive heads. Square drive is actually pretty good when done right, but on the SS deck screws the square holes weren’t deep enough. With only a couple of mm of the tip engaged, I’d probably wallow out 1 out of every 10 or so since the SS isn’t all that hard. I have about 10 wooden footbridges on my property and they are all decked with those square drive screws. I had to rebuild four of them after Hurricane Michael, and that meant backing a coupla hundred of those square drive screws out and then screwing them into a new deck. Yeah, I ended up having to hacksaw a slot in the tops of a few to use a screwdriver to get them out. I eventually figured out that the only reliable way to put them in was to drill a pilot hole first; it takes twice as long, but at least I didn’t wallow out any more square drive holes.
EVERY. METAL OXIDIZES…Ok now all you engineering wannabes should also understand the “table of dissimilar metals” so you understand which materials work together best…ss does oxidize and it varies with the ambiances. .such as near oceans and other environmental situations.
The SF Bay area’s Bay bridge was opened in 37. Demolished a couple of years ago. Perpetual paint job from day one. a partial failure in an EQ lead to it’s replacement. A boondoggle, but it seems OK, we hope…
And the famous GG. also 37 vintage. At last the district got enough money for a complete paint job. The ocean side badly needed it…
Hard metal means increased brittleness. Grade 8 not always the best option. …
I’ve bins of hardware grade. OK in a lot of places, no way in others!!!
Watching a truck mechanic taking a big Cummins apart. so many bolts busted… Too little and no antiseize…
Why did Fannin bust his sword across his knee as the Alamo was overwhelmed???
Carl
I have a keen appreciation of the table of dissimilar metals. To utilize it, you also have to understand the physical conditions that those tables were prepared from, the difference between stable and unstable oxidation and the relative mass and surface area of the two items in question. The table in and of itself is not the final say so.
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But it helps…there are a lot of people unaware.that there is such a thing as corrosion differences…too much over engineering for just a car.