Starter would not turn over. No click, no nothing. Checked for voltage to the starter relay and had 12.5 volts when the key turned to start. Check operation of starter relay (after market 45 amp). Was working just fine using a 9volt battery. After unplugging the fuel pump relay and the coil from the distributor, hooked up a remote starter switch to the Brown lead to the starter relay and the White with Red stripe lead to the starter solenoid. Turn the key to on and operated the remote starter switch. Nothing happened. Double checked that there were still 12.5 volts.
Had this problem before and it was the White Red lead connection to the starter solenoid which I soldered to repair. Been work fine for over a year as I recall.
Decided the starter had to come out again, so pulled the air cleaner and dropped the right down pipe which as you know have the big catalytic converter built into it. Once the down pipe was off was able to reach in and wiggle the White red lead to the starter solenoid. Reinstalled the starter relay and turned the key. Engine turns over. Have not removed the starter. Intend to do that in the morning if the temperature is below 85F but would like to ask which starter is most reliable. Current starter is a Bosch reduction gear.
Why???
I had my share of travails on my “lump’s” starters!!! Yes, several!!!
The architecture is similar. In the last repair, I added a wire.
Attached at the solenoid as the R/W. that goes back to the relay.
My backup crank feature. Long enough to reach the battery+ post on the firewall. Bare end covered with a wipe of tape.
I can crank if the key to relay to solenoid circuit goes TU!!!
Carl. . .
…wiggle the White red lead to the starter
solenoid. Reinstalled the starter relay and turned the key. Engine
turns over.
It’s possible your problem is merely that the pinion gear isn’t adjusted
properly. The pivot for the lever on the solenoid is an eccentric bolt; you
loosen the nut, turn it around, and retighten the nut to adjust it. Disconnect
the lead from the solenoid to the motor so you can energize the solenoid
WITHOUT energizing the motor. With the solenoid energized, measure the
clearance between the pinion gear and the hard stop at the end of its travel.
There’s an acceptable range; adjust the eccentric bolt to the wide end of that
range. This will ensure solid electrical contact when energized.
Make very sure to perform this adjustment on any new/rebuilt starter you get,
too. Don’t trust the supplier to have done it right.
Current starter is a Bosch reduction gear.
That’s generally considered the best. That doesn’t mean they last forever,
though.
– Kirbert
Been distracted for some time since original post regarding this problem. Between being surrounded by water and dodging tornadoes now have time to get back to fixing the Jag.
I was wrong when I said the starter was a Bosch. It is not , it is a Lucas. Just today I received a remanufactured Bosch starter part no. SR9492X.
Will be installing it this weekend along with new starter relay. This time will use a new relay described as Skirted Rely w/Resistor 30/50A 12V DC (1 MIN). Bought two of them since cost was only $4.89 each.
Will check to see that engine turns over with new relay and starter before reinstalling the down pipe.
Another problem was addressed while the starter is out. I found two of the four bolts of the transmission spring support stripped. One is a 3/8-24 NF at the rear and one is a 5/16-24 NF at the front. The 5/16" one at the front required the removal of the bracket which was not too hard to do except for one of the bolts barley clears the shift cable.
Having a machine shop fabricate the new nuts from 3/4 inch steel key stock. Having them made a bit longer in length. After they are made will take the parts to the shop and have them tacked to the plate as they where originally. To get the old stripped nuts off a Drimmel cut off wheel was used to cut the tack welds and then a chisel.
Wont have this done until next week.