The tool has a taper lead in so it squeezes the seal into place in a controlled manner as it enters the seal space. The crankshaft does not have a taper.
With the crankshaft as a guide I suppose you must just fit the shaft in place and tighten up the seal bolts. To my mind this would likely extrude some of the seal material into the closure place which would not be good.
As they say YMMV
OK, thank you all, it looks like we have covered the sizing and cutting aspects.
What about the sealant to put in the groove that is supposed to stop the seal from rotating if I understand well.
Since the rope bits will have been soaked in oil, what sealant will work? The Holden video says “GM sealant” and my local shop has no idea what this is
Given the relative friction of the seal against the polished and oily crank journal vs. the seal pushed into the channel where it resides I can’t imagine the need for any sealant act as an adhesive to hold the seal in place.
Agreed that the seal has three sides being gripped against one that is lubricated so the likelihood of the seal spinning is microscopic in my mind.
Again, done properly, it works fine.
Can we assume you have removed the crankshaft sludge traps when you cleaned the crank?
Curiously, I have fitted a rope seal to a Holden V8 per the video (no special jig though). Have not yet had to do the job on a Jaguar. Paul
No real difference…
Well yes if you have as much experience as you apparently do.
However most of us may only do the job once or twice and are hence on a steep learning curve, notwithstanding all the videos and on-line advice. The factory tool does not require skilled labour just follow the shop manual
Either way works: we can agree on that, and I have no issue with those who choose either one.
However, even the mandrel requires experience to do it properly. That method, done improperly, can as easily result in a leaky rear main, as does the crank method can, if done improperly.
My only issue is the ofttimes-communicated message that the sizing mandrel is the only proper way to do the job. I’ve talked a couple list members through the process, on the phone, of using the crank-install method.
It’s not that difficult.
Ok then, this leaves us with one question: sealant on the areas where the two rope seals half meet. RTV? Yes, no, what type?
When I am sure I have the seals seated, and trimmed–if needed–I use a schmear of RTV on the rope ends (no gobs: just a thin film), and make sure to seal the chamfer of the main cap with RTV, too.
A very thin smear of RTV on the inside edge of both halves. I’ve seen hundreds of seals that have turned in XK and V12 Jaguar engines.
At the works, they did start to use a small dab of some thing red maybe Hermatite, on the rope seal more latterly
Yes, the seals turning in the housing seems to be a possibility. The Holden video advises to put adhesive sealant inside the grooves of the two halves. Is this what you are referring to?
I would think that something rubbery would grab on the seal whether it adheres or not. A thin coat of rtv maybe which I think we added.
So on inspection of the parts this morning, I found two reasons for concern and would like some input for the braintrust here as to the best ways forward.
1- the rear most bearing journal has two tiny nicks (see photo) . They are barely perceptible to the index nail, and I am thinking of either leaving them alone or file then down to tiny depressions to make they do not protrude and push the bearing out of its fully seated position.
2- straight out of the plastic wraper in the Mahle box, one of the bearing shells is quite marked and in my view is not usable as is. I need to get a new one. Very annoying and disappointing. Would love your thoughts.
Yes just ease the nicks so that they are below the mating surface.
That bearing looks nasty send it back!
Also, in one set of 7 shells , all have grooves, in the other 7 only the center one has a groove. I suppose the grooved ones sit on the top side right?
I suppose it depends if the shell has an oil feed hole, or do they all have them?