engine trans ready to go
any suggestions how to fix this? i broke one of the vacuum fittings a while back, never bothered with it, probably why the heater didn’t work? now that there is room, i’d like to make it right.
one line went to heater valve, one line went to vacuum canister in top middle firewall, and the other to the drivers side of the big can on firewall. is this correct?
Interesting to see that area of the bulkhead unobstructed by the battery tray.
Your car is an S1 and mine is an S 3. Might be different in detail.
But, in operation, they share the Delanair climate control Vacum operated in part. The can assures a supply of vacuum during low vacum engine operation ie acceleration.
So, that round plate once had two spigots. One has a hose and the other nothing. What is in the cabin in the form of a hose that formerly connect to the other side of the missing spigot ?
And, lastly, since the systems are so similar, a hoe diagram for the S3 should guide.
Search the J-L archives. some of us posted diagrams.
Sure looking good!!!
the round plate had 3 spigots, more of just 3 hoses passing through.
i removed the plate and put in vacuum line couplers. will need to remake the plate to cover the hole
on the ground, doesn’t seem to sit too low with the king -30mm springs and no shims
time will tell, i suspect it’ll settle after being rolled around a bit and driven.
no real progress this week, had a driveshaft made, 50.5" from tailshaft to diff flange. driveshaft shop said to go 3" tube vice the 2.5" called out in Andrew’s conversion manual due to length.
was busy trying to replace an inlet port shut off motor on a mercedes ml350. still in the midst of that mess
not much progress this week either. got the radiator in and a few small bits done.
spent the better part of one day fiddling with the transmission cable and linkage. my was butchered to fit the ford AOD trans and i was too lazy to pull the one from my parts car.
got the linkage connected finally, but it’s pretty rough shifting. need to go back and adjust it or pull the other cable.
one step forward, a few back. had to pull the engine and trans back out over the weekend to install the trans cooler lines. i could not get my hands and a wrench in to tighten the lines. i am not using the funky factory clip in line connections.
I left mine in place on the donor engine transmission package.
However, when I got to attaching the free ends o the radiator, I hit a bump. Two long and twisted back, I cut each one, just short of the radiator, but still horizontal and no upward bend as needed to reach the ports. I double flared the ends. found two 90 elbows. A barb in the other end of each elbow. Now, to the ports. I fund a transmission oil cooler install kit. Fittings plus a short length of tubing. But, with a nice flare to hold hose. Using my tubing bender, I made 90’s of them. Now, add in two lengths of transmission oil compliant hose. Clamped. Very tidy and afford the flexibility to accommodate engine movement . Even my picky son said “slick”.
Simply wished to say …WoW…
Some swap and project!
Must be nice having garage space like that!
Personally I’d renovate that engine bay a bit though.
I’m a big por15 fan.
Great looking car though!
Thanks for sharing.
can’t wait to see this on the road, What a great thread yo have going.
pro tip for XJ bonnet R&R single handed.
use the engine crane, have a few long bolts handy to mate the bonnet to hinge, as angling it is tricky with the short bolts, draw it together, sub short bolts
30min job, no more begging & waiting for a reluctant helper
thanks to all for the views, advice, and kind words!
not much to report this week as i spent a couple days fussing with the benz project.
got the transmission cooler lines attached and a few other bits.
went back to the shift cable and linkage as i didn’t like the way it feels. no luck there, going to have to pull the cable from the S3 and use it. does it come out easier from the top or bottom?
dropped the rear subframe in prep for a rebuild. nothing to see there except 40+ years of neglect.
i have new rotors/calipers, matching -30mm king springs, new bilstein shocks. awaiting some rebuild bits for the rest, diff seals, ujoints, and the like.
hope to start on the wiring soon.
at 108 degrees progress is slow. currently investigating putting in a mini split ac system
Great work on a really nice car. And a great shop to work in as well.
As I recall, the guy that helped me with the heavy stuff had a day job. Worked in a transmission shop. So, when my cable parted in the drive, he made short work of installing an improved version, sourced by me from Johns Cars. The inner cable a bit long. A tubing cutter cut it neatly to length. He fed it in from the console opening. It has performed nicely, ever since.
As to installing the bonnet. a past J-l lister had a neat tip for the adjustment. Now, I see it as an aid in the installation as well. Remove the grill. Much better access to getting the hinge bolts started.
That will be one fine lump.
once again not much to report, struggling through swapping the fuel tanks out for the S3 tanks.
the passenger side tank cover screws were all but rusted in place, most broke the heads off during removal. the passenger side had a plugged up drain hose that did not extend past the fuel tank cover like on the driver side.
and it looks like the trailing arms were happy in their location and did not want to be removed, i see deep creep, heat, a big pry bar, and a fair bit of cursing in my future…
pic of the old vs new king springs. supposed to be -30mm springs?
i’m no foreign ruler, but me thinks this is more than -30mm.
perhaps it’s a compressed measurement they advertise?
The yellow one is compressed. The dirty one is extended.
Do some research. An inches to metric formula.
Use your tape and measure. Compare.
Buy a metric rule.
Call King and talk to the tech support guy.