Starting the engine after a few weeks

That certainly is s good working hypothesis. FI cars seem to suffer less from this issue, and their sealed fuel system may explain that.

I agree that possibly makes logical sense

There must be a reason

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Had you a P6 Rover, and replaced the Lucas starter–identical to the ones used in S1 E types–you most assuredly would not feel the same. For whatever the reason–my working hypothesis is that the Rover was a high compression four banger–the Lucas starter would constantly throw out just before the car started. After I put the Gustafsson starter on Margaret, her starts have been flawless, inclusive down to -25C.

Nothing particularly wrong with the Lucas starter: they were robust and usually lasted a long time, but hi-torque starters are much lighter, and crank the engine faster, which aids in cold starts.

It could still be down to your choke or enrichment device not being set up correctly…i assume that you keep your foot off the gas pedal while trying to start…Steve

My house has to do me all year round .:grin:

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This is right. If I leave my e type for a few weeks it can crank 6 or 7 times before it fires. Some time ago I took the bell and piston of the rear carb and was surprised at just how long it took for the fuel level to rise in the jet. It’s a series one with the in tank pump - so I don’t get the “tick, tick, stop” of external pumps. Now I let the pump run 20 seconds before start - then it fires first time.


That’s what I do. If you listen carefully you can hear a change in tone of the whir of the pump as the carbs fill up.

What do you expect Paul , it’s only an E type :grin:

Yeah tried that. I do the full 20 seconds and she kicks in half a turn.

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Peder, you ask a good question. I have a slightly different opinion about why our cars are a bit balky after sitting. When you bring your car in hot, it has well-atomized fuel distributed evenly throughout the intake and combustion chambers. That fuel stays there for awhile, maybe a few days, gradually evaporating, but making the engine start faster if still there. After some time, say two weeks, there is nothing left, and the system is starting over. You may have fuel in the jets, but sufficient atomized fuel takes time to get to the chambers, especially since the carburetors are very inefficient when cold (thus the need for choke or ASC). I think the idea of a stronger starter is on the money, as it will allow more efficient vaporization. Fuel injected cars start right away because they don’t have this problem - the fuel goes directly into the cylinders.

4 flats on the ASC is a lot. You might be too rich. I would suggest one flat at a time. The service manual actually says to adjust the ASC hot, but I think you have to fine tune it start-to-start. I only have 4 cars with ASCs (lucky you with all those jags), and they all start a little differently. Another thing you can do, but might not be practical with all those cars, is to put an oxygen sensor in the exhaust downpipe and measure the air-fuel ratios during start-up. I’ve done this in my Mk10 and see air-fuel ratios in the 11-14 range on the ASC when cold. The A/F meter is helpful in real-time tuning and needle selection as well, allowing examination of fuel mixture while driving. The cable for the gauge is long enough to reach in the window. When you are done, take the sensor and gauge out and screw a plug in the bung.

It won’t de-atomize after weeks only and it won’t de-atomize that differently for different cars