When I pulled my 1986 XJ-S into the shop to replace the belts, the power steering worked perfectly. I replaced all the belts because the alternator belt failed and it made no sense to take all the belts off to install a new alternator belt and not replace all the belts. I did that over the next three weeks. While I had all the belts off, I chased down a small water leak I had for several months. Turns out one of the bolts in the water pump cover was loose and tightening that bolt solved the water leak. Other than noting that I need to replace the passenger side (US car) interior tie rod rubber boot, I did nothing to the rack. I lowered the car. The steering now has three or maybe four hard to turn spots when I go stop to stop. It is this way with the engine running (and having power steering) or with the front wheels raised off the pavement and engine turned off so no power steering. I cannot figure out what is causing this problem. Before I disconnect the tie rods to make sure it is not something with one of the wheels (which I am positive is not the problem) I am asking for any ideas as to what could have caused this problem. The Power steering belt was tight the first time and apparently not slipping, however I tightened it so that is now really tight. No change in the problem. I had all the front suspension bushings and the motor mounts replaced about 18 months ago and, until yesterday and today, the car drove fantastic. It has 322K on it. It had 89 K on it when I purchased it in 1991. It has been a great driver for now 31 years. Help please.
Spit balling here, you say three or four hard to turn spots, I don’t know the exact number but it seems like the XJS rack is somewhere between three and four turns lock to lock. My question is does the hard to turn symptom always happen when the steering wheel is in the same position, i.e. when the top of the steering wheel is at 11 o’clock, or 2 o’clock, etc.
If yes, that could point to an issue somewhere in the steering column, versus the rack.
Bob
First, thank you for your timely reply. Yes, the problem occurs at the same points with the wheel in the same points on the clock. Since you mention the steering column, I notice that every point at which the problem occurs, the steering column at the dash moves to the left. Tonight I will confirm that the problem occurs at the same clock point(s) each time and what those clock points are. I did move the steering wheel in and out to see if that would solve the problem and it made no difference. I will also experiment with the steering wheel in/out position to see if there is any difference at various intermediate points instead of all the way " in " or “out.” I cannot think of a reason this would make any difference, but I need to check it out. More late tonight.
Gordon,
See if something jams at the steering shaft, between the rack and the column.
There is weird u-joint at the top of the steering rack, it could also be the case.
If you can undo it (mark the position first so you don’t loose the center of the steering wheel), you could determine if it’s the rack or something at the column.
You can do the same at the u-joint at the bottom of the steering column at the footwell (easier).
This points to a problem with the steering column.
Steering column u-joints? Just a thought.
Could the tie-rods have been injured when you disconnected them? That is, at the ball-joint end?
Cheers
DD
I like Aristides idea of disconnecting the u joint at the rack so that you can separate the steering column from the rack as a test. A bit fiddly, but not difficult to do if youre patient.
I think that you should check the internal components of the steering column.
Two of the customers who were having similar issues had the internal horn contact tube jammed up.
You should also check all the bolts that hold the column and the dash together.
Sounds like they are loose.
Thank you. I will check all that tonight. Just the fact that people have had a similar problem and it was the steering column rather than the rack gives me comfort. I will check all the bolts and nuts from the back of the dash to the firewall for tightness and any appearance of slipping.
Gordon Mortin
In a message dated 9/6/2022 12:11:37 PM Eastern Standard Time, noreply@jag-lovers.com writes:
Thank you. I noted that the funky u-joint is laying flat in the closed position. I did not check to see if this is the condition when the steering wheel is binding. I suspect that it is and I suspect that one of the clamps between the fire wall and the dash is too loose and slipped causing the funky u-joint to bind. I will know more tonight.
Gordon
In a message dated 9/6/2022 7:59:24 AM Eastern Standard Time, noreply@jag-lovers.com writes:
Another spit mball. thanks for rereshing my memor of that term.
Check out the smple U jint in te column i suspect t is binding.
Th symptoms fit tht very well.
Clean and lube? or replace,. dunno.
slack off the brlt. can ruin a new one
Way off theory. bleed the system. run the engine, wheels od ff te ground. Go lock to lock.\Or more fun. find large space. drive a few figure 8’s.
Carl
I would start from raising the front whees and trying to fully lock the steering wheel with engine off - then running. Quicker than thank starting from messing around with “impossible-weirdo-UK-steering joint” from the beginning.
Checking steering rack’s bushes also seems to be good idea…
a good rule of thumb is backtrack all work done… I personally would say the problem lies in the work last performed… before your belt change. maybe that has something to do with the way the belt got bad… with that many miles there’s going to be things wearing out.
Thank you to everyone who replied today. I appreciate all your comments and ideas. Frustrating night tonight working on this problem.
First, the tight spots are (from centered wheels and steering wheel) 12 o’ clock and 6 o’clock.
Second, I adjusted the adjustable steering wheel in/out to the full out position. With the steering wheel all the way in (closest to dash) the steering wheel bind was at 12 and 6 o’clock positions with wheels and steering wheel initially centered. With the steering wheel all the way out (farthest from the dash), the binding problem was substantially reduced. Still a little stiff with the steering wheel centered and tires straight ahead. I did a test drive. I think the steering was just like it was when I picked up the care after having all the bushings, ball joints and tie rods replaced about 18 months ago. At that time the steering was stiffer than before an more stiff at steering wheel centered and front wheels straight ahead, but I attributed that to results of all the work that was done. I had also removed the left air cleaner so I could see the funky knuckle position, the left under scuttle and the soft cover over the collapsible area of the steering shaft. Since everything checked out on the test drive, I reinstalled all the above (using wire ties to hold the soft collapsible area cover in place), brought the tire pressure from 32 up to 35 lbs. When I started the car the steering was not as bad as it had been but definitely stiffer than when i drove it. I have no idea why the steering was stiffer again after I did all this.
In answer to some of the other questions, (a) I have not yet removed the tie rods so they have not been damaged by me. They look very new and properly installed. (b) With the front wheels jacked up off the ground, I had already cycled the steering wheel stop to stop in both directions to bleed the power steering system. I also did a left 360 degree turn. I have not done a right 360 degree turn yet nor figure 8s. I will try that tomorrow, but I think the tires raised off the floor and the several stop to stop cycles should have eliminated any air in the power steering. (c) I moved the steering wheel stop to stop while watching the inside the car at the firewall steering shaft u-joint. Nothing appeared improper however I know that a u-joint can appear to be operating normally but in fact actually be binding. Replacing that U-joint I think is harder than it looks, unless the steering wheel and shaft will move back away from the dash when the u-joint clamping bolts are loosened. Does not look like I can slide the firewall side of the joint shaft back through the firewall and then be able to retrieve an slide it into the replacement u-joint, but I need to look in the manual.
Too tired and frustrated to think tonight.
Thank you all for caring enough to help an old man.