Steering rack bushes number

Hey guys
Can anyone tell me the part no. For this steering rack bushes ? (Pic attached)

The OE part number for the mounting bushing is CAC 1634. They are made of rubber and not a good choice. You can buy Polyurethane bushings which will greatly improve your steering response from the usual suppliers- mine came from Welsh Enterprises. Kirby’s Book will explain all!

You don’t want it! :grinning: Get the poly bushing instead, most Jag specialists have them available. For example, in the UK Steering rack bushing set

Why the bushes came in a 3 pack ??
From what i see i only need two of those…

Two on one side and one on the other side, look above the lower ones you will see where the third goes.

I got mine from Johns cars in Texas…bought tool also…half an hour job…polyurethane

So i need 3 bushes for each side ?

3 bushes TOTAL.

Getting them out may need a tool, but if you’re putting poly back in, that part can be done easily.

Get the Poly bushes.
Getting the old ones out can be a pain with the rack in the car.
If your old bushes are not completely destroyed there is a way to reinforce them without having to take them out.
A relative thread.:

not the best pic , i made my bushings from solid aluminum, steering response is amazing and quick, and i dont notice much vibration?


I don’t recommend solid aluminum for steering rack mounts. Such things commonly benefit from a bit of flex, even the flex you get from poly mounts. When truly rigidly mounted, even thermal growth can become a concern. If you do plan to rigidly mount, I’d suggest rigidly mounting only on one end, probably the driver’s side end, leaving the other end rubber mounted.

Kirby been 26yrs , NO problems , driving is a joy with amazing response, i have driven other guys XJS s

and they feel loose/and rubbery!
to each his own.

Hey Kirby , why does the Italian tune up work so well?
what do you think is taking place in the car???
for yrs i was skeptical but seems to help for a more relax drive! deffenatly smoother!

and this brings up a long forgotten subject, way back like late 50s up to late 60s, !
some of us performance guys had a saying!
BREAK THEM IN FAST,(always be fast)!
BREAK THEM IN SLOW,(always be slow)!
it seemed to be true after many months of ripping up NEW Muscle cars! Chevys. Fords, and Mopars, BIG block types! if it wasnt at least 400 ++up!

I dunno about that. I can tell you that, before manufacturers began cam grinding pistons, you’d better break them in slow! They’d bind up in the cylinders if you didn’t. I dunno when they started making pistons non-round, but it’s been a good long time, and since then engines really didn’t need a break-in period.

no just three total.

K, the piston manufactures started cam grinding back in the teens and 1920s!
mostly when they started aluminum pistons, most pistons used to be cast iron, with little expansion rates!

i know i’v been around a long time , my father said he had one of the 1st Harley Davidson with then new DOW METAL pistons(aluminum), 1927!
anyway little related to 1950/60s big V8 engines , and todays engines run very tight clearences!