So as you might know, my 1996 Jaguar XJS was recently stolen and crashed. The body damage is obvious and pretty straightforward.
The radiator and air conditioning condenser support was bent pretty bad. I assumed that this welded to the car member was an integral part of the car’s frame. After speaking to several random body shops, they all seemed to come to that same conclusion.
Then I spoke with a shop in NJ who specializes in repairing Jaguars and Land Rovers. He told me that it was not a structural member. And he might have a point. The degree with which this member was bent, while not causing any of the gaps in the hood or door to move is pretty incredible. Could it be that this member is indeed not structural?
How would one come to a definitive answer for that? Picture below.
#5 in the image is the part you are asking about I think. It can be replaced with a donor piece, as long as the frame is not bent, all should be good. the main purpose is to support the radiator, oil cooler and condenser. I hope that answers your question.
I did look that up on JDHT. The only problem is that it’s welded in place, not bolted, thus I believed it was probably more important than it is after all?
Now to find a bumper cover and a hood…
How far back are the hoods interchangeable? Would a 1993 work, or only 1994 on?
Yes the hood (bonnet) on an 93 will fit a 94. If I were you, I’d take the car to body shop that does frame alignment repair. They can pull that back into place and check the rest of the measurements to make sure nothing else is bent. If you like, I can provide you with the measurement data. Chances are, if the car sustained that kind of damage, there may be other damage further down the line. How are the panel gaps on the front wings around the cowl and doors. I’m guessing the bonnet is damaged.
Look at the paint on the bolts that hold the wings on the engine bay, look for splintered paint around any of the mounting points. This will tell you whether or not the car suffered trauma elsewhere.
Didn’t the 94 hood have a more pronounced power bulge?
If anyone is interested I have some copies of the diagram of measurement points.
These are what the body collision guys use to pull the frames on 94-96.
I did some thinking. The hefty cross member is the base for the front suspension. It is detachable by releasing nuts and bolts.
The crunched part is indeed a radiator support. Cars in wet climes suffer rot to them. Repaired by cutting out bad metal and welding in fresh. Here, it seems the most practical to get a sound used one and cut put the old and weld in the new.
If the doors open and close smoothly, that is an excellent clue that the damage is not that far back and the cowl remains in place . great, especialy oin a convertible.
Measure and compare the wheel bases. Left and right. Exact or durn close. If so might be OK. If not, something not good nas bent stuff.
There should be absolutely nothing to fear removing and replacing that radiator support. As mentioned it is a regularly replaced victim of rust. If some thought is given to the way yours and the replacement are cut (at the welds) from the car the correct placement will be a no brainer.
Kirbert
(Author of the Book, former owner of an '83 XJ-S H.E.)
8
Considering the way it’s bent, it’d be interesting to see if cutting through it would cause the chassis to go “boing” and spring open a bit.
I learned that decades ago when I cut the back part of a Model A Ford frame to “Z” it as one means of lowering the “eventual” car. No brace and indeed “boing”. the fore end members spread!!! I and a pal wrestled with chain and jack, manual, to squeeze them back,
Decades later, same operation on another A ford frame. A chunk of angle iron, actually bed rail, bolted to two convenient holes. I surprise my self in how much less work than I had imagined, it took to cut each rail on a 45 degree slant, And, neat and clean ready for the added metal.
I have to find someone I can work with around the Washington DC area. I’ll drive pretty far for someone who actually can confidently weld this back in place. I’m struggling to find someone who wants to do this, never mind knows what they’re doing.
So far My only option is a shop on NJ. I’m gonna send some pics as see what he thinks this will cost me.
Stay tuned.
1 Like
Kirbert
(Author of the Book, former owner of an '83 XJ-S H.E.)
12
I’m thinking in this case the “boing” may be the frame returning to its correct position! With the way that crossmember is distorted, I’d expect it to be pulling the two rails closer together than they should be. Welding in a brace to keep them there would hence be a mistake.
Finding a front bumper cover, and hood, as well as all the other small parts and pieces located, then competing the body work replacement and having her repainted for less than a replacement XJS is now being investigated!
For all the people that think these cars are going up in value, deals can still be found apparently!
There is a very small area of brazed joint at the front lower wheel arch where it meets the lower corner valance panel, there are also a number of screws along this joint, hidden behind the bumper.
Other than that brazed joint it is entirely bolt on.
Regarding the brace Kirbert, l didn’t mean to weld one in rather just fit the tube cross brace setup directly in front of the radiator which barring damage to that would confirm dimensions at least to some degree.
Weld not in my theory. Bolted in. But, as Kirby says that might secure the “sides” of the engine bay in a distorted position and then welding in the radiator would support the engine bay in the distorted rather than correct alignment.
Thinking more. dangerous, huh for a NON XJS guy, It is already well braced, almost. I’m thinking of a rough rectangle at the front of the engine bay. Suspension member goes across and is fastened underneath. And, not to forget, the real bumper of solid material behind the valance. Tin crosses over the radiator to “close” that rectangular opening. Distortion on would best be seen the! Although as Veejay says, the wing wall brace assists there.
The “odd” shapes and location of the dents in that member suggests a folding under of parts rather than left or right deviation.
Careful exam for wrinkles might reveal it’s presence or perhaps not ?
Caveat again. Observations from afar. I think the structure sans the radiator support is sound and in alignment.
Just suppose that the member remains in place. And the dented portion cut away. New material cut to fit nd welded in.
And, way out there, not suggested, only mentioned:
Leave it be and fix the tin…
Weld on plates to cover the dents. Make it look sound, as I suggest that it’s function remains intact…
But, aye the car can and should be saved.
I hope the impact knocked the @@@#%$##^ out of the @##^)*^
Question- If I sourced a replacement, should i get it installed/brazed on before I had it painted? I’d prefer to instal a newly painted part, but perhaps it wouldn’t blend well… Its a flat paint. BRG, no specks or metallic flake.
