Can someone confirm the orientation of the sump pipe brackets? Not sure if nuts facing the right way or if the bracket is sandwiched between the two ends that wrap around the sump pipe. I didn’t install the brackets on the bearing caps yet bc I wanted to loosen them only once.
Also. Should I use sealant on the triangular sump pipe gasket? If I try to fill oil pump with oil to prime it, won’t it dribble out when I flip the engine over? Thanks
Steven;
If I understand your question correctly you want to now the position of the clamps and nut and bolt position for the sump tubes.
When I took my engine apart in 2010 it had never been apart before. I offer these photos for your use, hopefully they will provide you your answer.
I will add about six more.
Regards, Joel
Steven;
The last six.
Both sets of photos were taken at the same time I just split them here as some times the photos seem to tax the site, probably more my fault then that of the site.
Regards, Joel.
You the man. Thank you.
There is a gasket between the oil pipe triangular fitting and the block - C22598
Hopefully you can tell from Hutch’s photos that the fat spacer on the pickup clamp should be on the other end of the bolt taking up that large gap between the bracket and the clamp. I’d use red Loctite on all these bolts in addition to the lock nuts. I’m not a big risk taker.
Also you’ll notice that there is a fair amount of possible side to side motion with that center clamp. I took great care to make it exactly centered using the sump bolt holes as reference. As you offer up the sump you want to make certain that the pickup slips straight into that hole in the sump mesh. It can be challenging enough due to the big cotter pin on that part.
You can use sealant on that pump tube gasket if you want. I used Indian head shellac which is my go to for oil and fuel gaskets.
Double check that the coupler between the pump and dist drive moves exceptionally freely before sealing things up. It’s very easy for the pump to be tightened down slightly off center, even using the proper dowel bolts. I had to tighten it down several times to make it perfect.
Yes I suspect oil you put into the pump would run right out the pickup tube when the engine is upright, and when inverted it would run the other direction and drip out the filter housing which you probably won’t have mounted until you install the engine. I wouldn’t bother with it.
Once you‘re sorted with the orientation don‘t forget To utilize your lock tabs. It seems you have the gasket installed.
Joel,
Don’t think I know the year of your car, but those big end nuts, I believe they are supposed to be castellated with cotter pins locking them. They were replaced on later cars I believe but I know that when my ‘68 came apart for the first time in 2001/2 I believe, it had those nuts and pins. We replaced them with the later and safer locking type. We fond that some of the pins had found their way into the oil pump, it was replaced also. Engine came apart due to low comp’ on one cylinder…broken rings.
Les;
My car, was my Dad’s, is a 1970. Original engine and I think a untouched before rebuild. My dad has been dead since 1992 so I can’t prove that but I am unaware of any engine work before I bought the car.
hanks for asking.
Regards, Joel.
just wondering why you have used socket head fixings on the main bearing caps?
That was what my machine shop recommended and bought for me. They are made by ARP and I just touched base with him a few weeks ago as I was beginning assembly and he said to get rid of the lock tabs (which wouldn’t work on a cap bolt anyway) and just use this. Last time I was at his shop he had a couple ferrari engines in for rebuild and I think he used to do the machine work for Classic Jaguar before they moved everything in house, so I assume he knows what he is doing.
The ARPs are great, and yes no locks, just higher torque and moly lube. XKs and also Terry’s I know sell them. They aren’t a controversial upgrade. Hopefully when you assembled the rods you took care to make sure the bolt heads weren’t catching on the rod’s bolt recesses. There were some notable failures 20 years back when they first came out.
As I recall the underside of the ARP rod bolts had a perfectly sharp 90 angle and some of the rod landings weren’t cut that sharp, so if the corner of either the bolt or landing wasn’t worked on, the bolt head could be put under side stress at high RPM. Then the head pops off and you throw the rod. Not sure if ARP ever did anything about that.
A few years ago, the question of ARP rod bolts came up amounst the members. As I had installed these on my rebuild, I took quite an interest especially as a few of our more knowledeable members leaned towards NOT using them. I even called direct to some very reputable Jaguar specialists and still could not seem to get a definitive answer. As I had yet to start my engine, I finally decided to call ARP direct. The conversation was short & quick; “what engine are they for”; “a 1965 Jaguar E Type 4.2”; “ARP does not make a con rod bolt/nut for Jaguars”. Into the bin & replaced with the later Jaguar bolts designed & machined for XK engines.
