My temperature gauge was acting funny than just died. The gas gauge still works. . As a quick check can I switch the two wires from the B side to the I side and see if the temperature gauge works. This would eliminate the voltage stabilizer as the source of the problem.
if the gas gauge still works then the stabilizer must be ok as it supplies the Temp/gauge same wire code G/B, so why not isolate the Temp gauge & test with it’s own power supply & also check voltage of G/B wire @ temp/ input if same as gas voltage, i can give you a schematic extract of it all if you need…
1 Like
You absolutely can’t exchange B and I. The gas and temp gauges are both powered @10VDC by the IVR. Furthermore, they are the same gauges except for the faces. To test whether the temp gauge or the temp sender is the problem, just switch the wires on the temp gauge to the corresponding lugs on the gas gauge. If the gas gauge behaves the same way, it’s the temp sender or the wiring. If not, it’s the temp gauge itself.
4 Likes
Glad I asked! Since both have two wires GB one to the gauge and one to the sensor I assume that I would have to switch both the gauge and sensor wire,
Thank Tom. I have the schematic I couldn’t find it yesterday. When testing the voltage where do the two leads go? One to the stabilizer and the other to a ground? Or both to the spades on the sensor?
You may find it difficult to check the ‘stabilized’ voltage if you are using a digital VOM. It is anything but stable.
An analog gauge will smooth out the fluctuations and show an average output, possibly 10 VDC but a basic digital gauge will show what’s really going on: 0-14-0-14…
Just goby what you’re seeing on the gauges. If the stabilizer was bad, both gauges would misbehave the same way.
2 Likes
Had my education for the day !
Art,
the stabilizer is just power in power out, the out is the green/black trace wire, so pos+ to the g/b, & neg/earth, if you get a poor reading try with engine running and charging but as mention by others both fuel & temp would not work properly if stabilizer faulty - check voltage at both gauges - should be equal - perhaps it might be best idea to go to the sender - supply full power to see if the gauge goes up fully.
Just to be clear… removing the wire on the sender and touching it to ground should peg the meter. If it does then the sender would appear to be at fault.
correct…just mimics a sender on full high
When you say the sender you are referring to the sender attached to the engine correct?
That’s right. A single wire, probably secured with a tiny brass nut that will try to escape and disappear if you give it a chance.
1 Like