Because I cut it too short I’ll order some more hose one day and do it again, but for now, it’s working fine.
I checked my records, I managed to find a NOS GIRLING SP4140/2 – MASTER CYLINDER KIT, which contained the two plastic elbows.
I got mine from VintageJagParts.com for $5 plus shipping, but it looks like they no longer have any.
Maybe if you search in the UK, you may find one? Otherwise, used ones would probably work? Only reason I replaced mine was that I tried getting one out of the old master cylinder with a screwdriver, and put a scratch in it, which caused a leak.
If you do find a Girling kit, the rubber seals that come with it are way too old and hard. If you need the seals (the rebuilt MC I got had the wrong sized seal for one of the ports) I ordered a MC rebuild kit for $15 which had the two seals for the ports. Of course, the new aftermarket rebuild kits come with no plastic elbows.
Perfect thanks Greg!
glad to help. I was going to do exactly what you are doing when I was considering purchasing an 89 XJ-S.
When I found an 88 Lucas without ABS, I decided to jump on that so I didn’t have to deal with Teves and Marelli.
Do the lower studs on the vac booster actually go through to the inside of the pedal box? So they are secured with nuts up inside the pedal box?
Yea I’m also interested in the end result of your project since I converted to a 5 speed , My stock 91 ABS works fine now but it is 29 years old. No one , that I know of makes a rebuild master cyl or kit for anything on this system.
Good luck Bob.
BTW, what 5sp did you use, kit or otherwise. Give us the low down.
Future plans for mine is a White Lightning Shifter & considering??? a 3.70 diff along with IRS mods to handle the torque
Why does it look as though a separate piece was added to your adapter plate? Couldn’t you have just made it all from one rectangular piece of aluminum?
Are those the four original mounting holes for the Teves? That weird parallelogram pattern?
Kirby, in machinist talk, that is what we call a “mistake.” I was focused on getting the perfect square bolt pattern and making the plate the minimum size and didn’t realize that I had omitted covering the hump in the top of the pedal box until I did my first test fit.
Yes. I didn’t measure it, did it with transfer punches, but I don’t really see any rhyme nor reason to that pattern.
Now that you’ve gone this route, can you speak to the option of using a pre-ABS brake pedal housing and adding the clutch pedal to it? IIRC, the flat is there, just needs drilling for the master cylinder. You’d probably have to fab a bracket to hold that pivot joint for the pedal.
I am slightly concerned that the vacuum booster is going to hit on the inner fender well. It kind a looks like the pre-ABS pedal box had a higher centerline. My fender well does have sort of a clearance pocket in it, clearly intended for the vac booster. Which makes sense, they wouldn’t have changed the fender well when they change the brakes. No way to really tell, will just pull the old one out and do a test with. It will be close.
I can’t speak to pre ABS pedal boxes, I have never seen one out of the car. Adding the clutch should be no trouble, I would probably tif weld on a pivot bracket, and then you would have to cut and tap the pattern for the master cylinder.
Here are pics of an ABS pedal box with and without clutch. You can see that the differences are really not that significant, and the only reason I have the non-clutch box is that was my original plan, to convert it.
I believe most of the kits out there use pre-ABS automatic pedal boxes that have been modified for the clutch. The pictures that I have seen on eBay show various solutions for tigging on brackets, adding the mc, etc.
One thing to consider/check is the pedal ratio- pivot to pushrod vs pivot to center of pad. Most vacuum boosted systems are around 4to1 (manual 4.5+). Don’t know what the Teves uses, but you should check (unless part number is the same).