The Chronicles of Car-nia: The Jaguar, the Wife, and the Doghouse

Allow me to introduce you to the newest member of my family! I will not shy away from the fact that this is a monumental act of stupidity. I bought a 1990 Jaguar XJ-S (for $1,500) from a person on Facebook that never registered the car, doesn’t know that you have to tighten battery cables more than hand-tight in order for the car to crank and run properly, doesn’t know how to diagnose simple issues (he thought the driver’s side door switch was not working correctly, but it was the passenger’s), and doesn’t know the difference between fine thread and coarse thread. Also, the wife has hated the car from the moment she saw it; this does not help my chances of avoiding the doghouse on this one.

I purchased this car with the intention of driving it back and forth to work - a grueling journey of 1.5 miles one way. This is the only way I would be able to buy one of these cars. I am going to do the simplest fixes and avoid a full restoration for now, just to keep it from bankrupting me. This doesn’t mean I will not be taking care of the car, but it does mean that I will not be fixing cosmetic issues beyond ensuring that they do not become problematic mechanical ones. The radio and speakers are missing, and someone has replaced the factory clock and readouts with some ugly purple clock that, surprise, isn’t working. I work at a company that does electrical engineering work. Since I do a lot of troubleshooting and repairing in my job the electrical gremlins don’t scare me, and I have access to many things that might help with repairs.

So, on to the issues! As one might expect, there are quite a few known (as discussed with the owner) and surprise issues with a car in this condition. Almost nothing I have run into so far has been unique to this car (they are the same things that would go wrong on ANY car that has been treated this way) with the exception of the current issue of the B bank not firing anymore. Here is a list, in order, of all the problems I have found so far and what has been done (if anything) to fix them:

  1. Car has trouble cranking. The man looked surprised when I took out wrenches to tighten the battery clamps to the battery when we first attempted to start the car (he indicated that he had disconnected the battery to protect it from being drained by the vehicle while he wasn’t driving it.) Wouldn’t you know, a good electrical connection makes a huge difference!

  2. Primary fan loose. Cause: Previous Idiot attempted to tighten 5/16-18 coarse thread nuts on 5/16-24 fine thread studs. This ruined the studs. Solution: Replaced with bolts from Lowe’s (this being a Saturday and the nearest parts store was out of fine thread studs, go figure. Also, I was surprised at how few retailers carry any kind of fine thread hardware.)

  3. The driver’s side window switch does not roll the window up. Previous Owner’s solution? Unplug the passenger switch and plug the Driver’s side connector to it to roll the window up. This solution will no longer work, as two days after purchase the switch basically disintegrated somehow while I was inside at work. New switches are on order and will be here Friday (hopefully).

  4. The old windshield wipers were disintegrated. I replaced them with the cheapest Wal-Mart has to offer for a temporary solution. Which leads me to:

  5. The windshield wipers don’t work. Opening the motor revealed a rusted mess with loose magnets, as I am sure many of you are familiar with. Currently the motor is in pieces so I can clean it and reattach the magnets while on break at work.

  6. The Air Conditioner does not work. I have never bought a car more than 10 years old with a functional A/C, so this is no surprise and not really a big deal at the moment.

  7. The instrument cluster is having… issues. The speedometer, tachometer, and oil pressure gauge all have a tendency to call in sick to work or decide to take unannounced breaks. This caused quite a scare the first time it happened, as oil pressure dropped to zero.

  8. The alternator wasn’t charging the battery. I had two theories: Either the alternator was too small for the engine, or it was nearing the end of its life. Thankfully I was wrong on both counts! It turns out that the alternator was not tensioned properly. I had to adjust the nut a full inch to get the belt tight enough! At least this was a pleasant reminder that many times the simplest solution is the best.

  9. Speaking of the alternator, the bolt holding the tensioner arm on did not have a nut on it… Simple fix, very annoying.

  10. Speaking of missing hardware, the driver’s side valve cover appears to be missing a nut. There is a small amount of oil leaking from that spot.

  11. The parking brake does not work. It probably needs a new cable.

  12. The brake warning light is always on. There is enough fluid in the system and the car stops easily enough. I’ll get a better look at what’s wrong when I flush the system.

  13. The coolant light is on, despite the coolant being at acceptable levels. Once again I will see what’s going on when I drain and flush the system.

  14. There are two missing hoses that go to… something. One is behind and a bit below the alternator and the other is at the back of the engine. I will sort these out later, though I do think it may have something to do with the A/C.

  15. The cruise control doesn’t work.

  16. When the engine is hot (it isn’t really overheating, at least according to the temp gauge) and the car stops (say at a stop sign) it has a tendency to cut off and not crank again for a few minutes. I suspect the engine speed sensor is the culprit, as I have read that it does not like the heat very much.

  17. The reverse lights do not work.

  18. The headlights aren’t all working properly. The solution to this is likely in the next item.

  19. There are multiple frayed, broken, brittle wires in the engine compartment (and behind the headlights as a closer look found out!) that will have to be replaced. This will be done a little at a time. I’m going to buy new connectors for each harness and replace the wiring with some improved higher temp type.

  20. This is actually out of order, as it was one of the first things I noticed but thought that it was the fan. I am not typing this out in Word and am too lazy to renumber everything, so it goes here. There is a faint rattle as the engine runs. I have a scope that I can insert into the spark plug hole to see if anything is actually in the cylinders or if it is another culprit. Possible culprits include a dropped valve seal (I hope not), internals of the A/C Compressor, internals of Water Pump, internals of any of the other belt-driven components, and possibly a worn out pulley or bearing. I am looking into this problem right now, as there’s no good that can come from ignoring possible debris in a cylinder.

Items on the list as far as known fixes and improvements I’d like to make:

New plugs/wires. This is technically the item that has the Jag sidelined for now, as the new plug wires won’t be here until Friday. I am installing the new plugs (with anti-seize!), taking the time to scope each cylinder while I have the plug out. It has also given me the chance to clean an old rat’s nest out of the valley.

Radiator flush and fill. Pretty self explanatory. I may look into getting a new radiator or having this one cored, but not until later unless it keeps running hot enough to cut off at stop signs. Not really an issue in the drive back and forth from work.

Transmission fluid change. Once again, self explanatory.

Brake fluid change/system flush. I really don’t trust any of the existing fluids in the car.

Oil change.

Complete hose replacement. Someone has already started this, as is evidenced by the number of screw type hose clamps under the hood. I’m going after the worst first, then I’ll come back and eliminate all the ones that have already been (somewhat shoddily) replaced.

Replace/change the exhaust. Someone at some point opened up the air intake a bit and eliminated some of the more restrictive portions of the exhaust. I wouldn’t have a complaint, but now the car sounds like a fart-canned civic (but much smoother!), just slightly lower. I need to find a combination that won’t wake everyone up at 5 AM while still allowing me to let everyone know what I have when I punch it.

As it is now, the car is not in good running condition. It will work to limp around, but is not where it needs to be. One thing I did notice: When driving it home on the interstate that first night it was sublime. I fell in love with the smoothness of the revs and the way the car was just asking for me to push that pedal a little harder. I’ve owned some cars over the years that you had to plead with to get up and go, and even then it took them some time. I’ve owned some cars that did what you wanted and suggested that they would do nothing else, even though there was plenty more they could give. I’ve only owned one other car that felt like it wanted me to go faster all the time, and that was a 2012 Mustang GT with a performance pack. This car wants it even more than that Mustang did, at least on the interstate. I am happy that for now common sense has overridden that voice, and that I won’t have to deal with it much while commuting to work. I’ll just have to keep that in mind the next time I get out to where I have open highway in front of me.

The Score So Far:
Total Time Driven: 3 hours (I’m rounding up, but give me a break on that if you don’t mind.)
Total Time Spent Repairing: 11 hours (and counting)
Joy to Repair Ratio: .27
Wife Aggravation Level: 7 (Down from a 10 at one point Saturday. Crying babies tend to do that.)

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Delightful. Thank you for sharing, and for the smile on my face.

You’d better hope your wife doesn’t have internet access. Calling her a crying baby isn’t going to improve things.

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I can offer some slight glimmer. Remove the rust and bond those magnets back in place, clean all the contacts up nice and that wiper unit should come back. Mines fine even after trying to eat both magnets and cracking both.

I presume you have the Book?

http://www.jag-lovers.org/xj-s/book/

I do. I have been reading in it, and I specifically made sure to read about the ignition before I bought the car. It is a huge help, and where I have gone first to help narrow down problems to things more easily checked.

The wheels are 17", and I haven’t decided if I like them or not. They do throw the speedometer off a bit though, so I’m either going to need to find a way to correct for that or replace them with a size closer to the original.

What do you think of the rims?

I’m not entirely sure how I feel about them myself yet. They seem a bit too “poser”-ish, like when someone buys a Mustang/Camaro/Civic/Whatever and throws whatever the cheapest shiny rims they can get at it. Of course, they also cost money to replace, so that will have to factor into the conversation as well.

Nice breakdown on the car. The wheels? I’d like to see a side on shot to be sure but they seem to have a Pana Sport look to them.

Gordon

If you would like a set of 5 refurbished Kents…I would trade you for your rims.

Cheers

Delightful post indeed !
And a very nice car.
I am sure you will address all the glitches slowly and you will have a very nice looking XJS.
And once fixed and running properly I’m also sure that the Wife Approval Factor will improve drastically!
It’s a car with unsurpassed Class, Elegance and Smoothness, both in looks and in the way it drives.
And I like the wheels by the way.

A few points:
Much of the noise is coming from the butchered Air Filters.
Either get replacements or duck them to the outside of the car (see Cold Air Intakes)

  1. One bank not working: is it a Marelli car? It’s all in the Book.

  2. Your Instruments is an other well known issue of ground and printed board connections.

  3. Parking Brake: I don’t know if the 1990 has the drum hand brake or not, but if it’s the inboard type then it’s a bit of a big pain, most probably it’s your brake pads and calipers and not the cable.

  4. The missing hoses might be part of the Charcoal Canister (the one by the alternator at least)

  5. Cruise control, most probably a leaking or disconnected bellow or bad wires.

  6. No crank or no start?
    In any case, change the GM module inside the Ignition Amplifier.
    It’s one thing that can leave you stranded and totally destroy your Wife Approval Factor in a nanosecond.
    Costs $10.

  7. Micro-switch on gear shift under center console.

  8. Are you sure it’s not just the injectors clicking ? they can be loud.
    Chain tensioner ?
    Droped valve Seat, hope not.
    I think that debris in a cylinder would have caused much greater havoc already,

Being in the electrical engineering world, take the advice of the Book and put relays in Lights, Windows and Wipers. It will totally transform them.

Keep us posted.

Best,
Aristides

Definitely a plus !!!

  1. Soothe the wife with whatever it takes, short of disposing of the car. It can be done. Happy wife - happy life. When, most of the ills are fixed, she may well learn to love it. And, she may well realize that when you are working on it, she is well aware of what you are up to, Wives are in to that security thing.

  2. Your “punch list” is well developed. Now, is the task of fixing each flaw, one at a time. Tis quite rewarding as each is accomplished,

  3. It is a more than decent car in appearance and well worth fixing it’s relatively minor ills.

  4. Keep up us apprised. These tales are inspiring and educational.

Carl

Carl, I’ve NO idea if you meant this, literally, but, in any case, I HOWLED!!!

Those wheels wouldn’t be my first choice. It’s all personal preference, though; asking someone else’s opinion is kinda pointless, since it’s how YOU feel about them that’s important.

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I’d be wary of running a V12 for just 1.5 miles, twice a day. Plug fouling, condensation in the oil and other short distance issues will probably cause you more headaches in the long term. However, once you have the major problems ironed out, I bet you’ll be taking off for a long run every weekend.

Good point.
My XJ350 daily driver can get me to work in 5 minutes on a good day, 10 minutes if there is a bit of traffic snarl. I do not takes the shortest route to or from work, I make sure the engine is fully warmed before it goes in the garage. It is only a 3.5L V8, warms up in about 7 to 10 minutes.

If I use one of the V12 XJ-Ss I am looking at close to 15 minutes to fully warm up.
I take an even longer route.

Here is a side shot of the wheels:

An unintended read!!! Ambiguous, for sure.

I’ll leave out any clarification to allow the humor to remain.

But, one can easily guess…

Carl

I’m not entirely sure what’s going on with the left bank. It’s not just pumping fuel into the exhaust, as I have verified the spark plugs are firing and I have power. The right bank exhaust is blowing 2-3 times as hard as the left, and warms up much faster as well. I originally thought that there was a restriction in the air filter, but it is fairly clean. (As a side note somewhere down the line someone bought the K&N filters for both intakes. I was finally able to tell my wife something positive about the car, and all she did was roll her eyes.)

Like I said in the original post, someone has done a lot of clearing out as far as exhaust and silencers go, but I wonder if they didn’t remove as much from the left exhaust as they did from the right (or if there’s just a bunch of debris in there - from the hack job most of the modifications to the car have turned out to be so far it wouldn’t surprise me) and that’s restricting air flow.

  1. I plan to improve all the electrical connections and copper goop them. We use some stuff called Penetrox E at work on cable connections to bus bar to prevent oxidation in the joint from causing higher resistance, and it holds up well in mining environments. That should help keep any grounds from suddenly losing connections due to rust or such.

  2. Very likely a leak, as I suspect most if not all the original rubber that is left is falling apart. I’ll get it all replaced eventually.

  3. No start. It cranks just fine, and gets close to starting after a few minutes. Waiting a short time after that point will usually get it to start. Since the A/C doesn’t work I’ve left it off, forgetting that the secondary fan only runs if the A/C is on (unless I read that part wrong). It has been better since I started running the useless A/C.

  4. I’ll have to record the sound and post it. My hearing isn’t the best (one of the first things you lose is the ability to tell similar sounds apart. Combine that with a loud restaurant and you wind up with a mad wife that thinks you have been ignoring her most of the evening.) so it may be better for you guys to be able to hear it anyways.

I have been reading The Book every chance I get, it’ll just take me a bit to get through everything. I greatly appreciate the support and advice everyone has been giving, it helps in those times where you’re just so frustrated you want to toss things.

Also, though I joke about my wife being mad at me a lot, she’s really not bad about it at all. If you consider how much patience she’s had with an idiot like me throughout our marriage you have to conclude that she’s really rather reasonable about all this. I seriously don’t know what I’d do without her.

I’ve been waiting until pretty much everyone is in bed to go out and work on the car, and that has calmed her down a bit since she has help around the house when the kids are awake. It means I get a bit less done at a time, but I’d rather do it that way than abandon her to work on it.

I do like having a punch list, even if I am usually the first item on those. Now if I can remember to take it one thing at a time I should actually get it all done!

They aren’t so bad that I want to just ditch them now. Since one of the main points of doing the build the way I am is not spending unnecessary funds, I’ll leave them unless some problem comes up. They are mounted on what looks to be a decently large spacer (I assume to allow the wider tires to clear the wheel wells while turning) and I do wonder how badly that may affect handling.

I take the long way to work in the mornings just to ensure the car gets up to temperature. It also takes me down a road where I can punch it just a bit once it’s warmed up, which is a great way to start the morning if you ask me.

Continually on Brake warning light is probably due to the cork float inside the cylindrical level on cap

That happened on mine a lot … when cap is brand new it work fine for a while then aaargh that blessed red light again

Marcus,
Can you send me a list offline?
I have a large collection of parts I am hoarding.
Lots of fasteners, correct speakers and other bits.
Text list to @ 650-455-1110
Steve