Must add to the above post, these alternators have a larger main shaft and bearings.
Brushes/regulator assembly are generic and cheap to replace.
Glenn
The 11AC was used on several period cars…RR, Aston (positive ground, no less), and Sunbeam, as well as the early 4.2’s. All sidewinders. I suspect that in one of those applications, it would be more of a drop in. The vendor probably wasn’t aware that Jaguar used three different mounting positions, with various pulley systems. So surprises aren’t surprising.
I just googled Lucas Electrik, Massey Ferguson alternator & there are several 55 amp alternators
W/ Massey Ferguson listed as a vehicle. Some CW & some CW/CCW. I need CCW (1969 FHC W/A/C).
Can you give more info on which one of these that you installed and works so well?
Thanks,
Michael
Michael
The alternator # is A127/55A, replacing NAB 201. I purchased an aftermarket pulley and fan as per Mike Frank. I have another alternator as a back-up, do not recall if the Lucas came with a fan and pulley? the alternator will work CW or CCW, it’s the fan that needs the correct rotation. I recall locating a fan that will work either way?
Glenn
The Prestolite fan in my Bosch faq is omnidirectional.
For those weighing alternatives… I had my 11AC rebuilt at a local shop. They replaced the bearings, brushes & stator and repaired the rotor for $149.
It is the 45 amp unit. It works fine including day-long driving with headlamps on for weeks at a time… but I do not have AC in that car.
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I tried to get mine rebuilt back in 2012 around Austin, same town as Jeff’s Resurrections. (At the time he had an XJ 220 sitting in the shop). Local shops couldn’t find the correct bearings etc. ended up buying a new one from Engel Imports (who later bought Terry’s) been working fine ever since.
This is the outfit I used for rebuilds of both the alternator and starter on my S2:
They list both parts as available though I have not looked into what exactly are the alternators offered:
Hi, thanks for the write up! I bought a Wosp lma012 for my 4.2 XKE (no PS or AC) for my FHC a few months ago as I’m doing a full rebuild but seem to have misplaced the instructions / wiring diagram… Are you able to share yours? I cant find anything online… Mine has two large, and a single unmarked spade terminals centrally then a ‘B+’ and a ‘W’ around the perimeter.
Thanks
Hi Dale -
I can take a look tomorrow, see if the instructions survived - fair chance, I am notoriously poor at cleaning up 
. From what I recall, the B+ post is connected to the larger spade terminals. If you look at the back you may be able to see that. In my case, I could not use the spade terminals because the case was just too close to the large connectors - it would have shorted, so I used the b+ post instead and just moved the spade connectors over from the old unit.
I’ll check on the instructions tomorrow.
Allan.
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Ok, so I found the instructions and I was going to take pictures, but there is a lot of writing and different procedures depending on which car you have, etc. So instead, I copied all the pages into a PDF file for you, you should be able to access it at the link below:
Please excuse the fingerprints, it was a “working document”.
Allan.
Legend, cheers mate!
hey guys, i have a 72 4.2 s2 FHC and i have the same alternator with the same instructions. does anyone know how to easily tell / what key components there are to tell which of the 3 options to use on the instructions? I know i have a 3AW ignition warning light control but i don’t know if i need to choose route 2 or 3.
That’s what I would do actually I did the last one my self as a project after it burnt up
Marine alternators can be rewound to go from 60 to 90 amps or so I was told
Grrrrr…I have about one call a week about these, and I’ve never even held one in my hands. I’m really wishing they’d clean up their act.
I believe it’s a Nippondenso internally regulated alternator, with a W tap. On an S2, you have two different ways to make this work, one isn’t better than the other:
First way would be to connect the old F+ wire to the alternator’s D+, and the AL wire to the alternator’s W. Tape off F-. This eliminates the stock voltage regulator, but retains the alternator relay and 3AW.
Second way would be to remove the 3AW. Use a jumper to connect the WL wire to the AL wire. Then plug the AL wire into the D+ connection on the alternator. If you do this, the warning light becomes an integral part of the charging circuit: if the bulb blows, the alternator won’t charge. You can add a 300 ohm resistor in parallel with the bulb to avoid this ever happening. This version of the wiring eliminates the relay, stock voltage regulator and the 3AW.
The bad news: the fan is a clockwise fan. If your alternator mounts in reversed position, you should find a suitable omni directional or CCW fan to replace it.
and the following picture, the assembly.
Good work I’m proud of you That’s the way
Cheers
Another fantasy that goes under this topic: “bolt-on headers.”