That’s not a seat, it’s a lacerated cow. 
i just wish it were my bottom being embraced by it. Love the ride!
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The seats are a disaster and eventually will get recovered. But that is many miles down the road. For now, I found some seat covers that fit the Packard seats. The seat is relatively narrow compared to a post-war seat. Also, it had a split folding back. So this seat cover I found on eBay was the only thing I could find that was even close to fitting. Not my preferred color, but better than sitting on tattered rodent-soiled material. We describe the interior as “50 Shades of Brown”
Also, I stripped and painted the firewall. Eventually, the entire body will get stripped and painted the color I want. But for now, I want to maintain the patina on the outside and for it to be clean and serviceable on the inside.
So the engine bay is getting a semi-gloss black job. The inner fenders are always semi-gloss black from the factory. So painting the firewall the same black, for now, would tie everything together and give me a painted surface that is cleanable. Eventually, this will be painted body color.
I also fitted inner fenders, which were missing when I got the car. They had to be modified to allow room for the alternator on the left side and the air intake of the carbs on the right side.
I also installed a battery cut-off switch. The battery on these cars sits in a tray underneath the car and is accessed via an access hatch under the seat. Since this car has a folding seat to access the storage behind it, I put the switch on the floor directly behind the seat frame in it’s rearmost position. This makes it very quick to fold the seat and turn the battery on or off. And is only about 12" from the battery itself.
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Before I begin working on the Carbs, I want to pull some of the ancient fuel out of the tank. It’s at least 4 years old. So I pulled 5 gallons out as that was all the space I had to store it in. That will get used in my lawn mower and snow blower.
Then I put 5 gallons of fresh fuel back, which will help to dilute any stale fuel in the car.
Also, the battery cables I ordered online arrived. These are made to order based on length, color, gauge, and what terminals you need on each end. They are better quality and cheaper than the ones I can get at the local part stores.
I will try to get these installed this evening.
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Lots of great patina in that old paint
E types don’t look so good with paint like yours
Hi Kevin,
Who is your source for those trick battery cables? Many times have I needed a certain color or terminal on a cable, and had to make do with whatever I could source locally. It would be nice to be able to order exactly what I need!
Thanks,
Jay
Got the new positive cables installed today. Still need to get the ground straps.
So first shot is new 1/0 cable with a terminal boot hooked to the battery. You acan see the battery under floor and access via a panel under the seat.
Second shot are the cables hooked to the cut off switch. In this shot I still needed to secure the cables to the frame. You can see how the switch is pretty protected in the frame. The front edge is protected by the battery.
Last shot is the new 1/0 cable connected to the solenoid. The old cable is on the left for comparison. Probably 4 or 6 gauge.
Also added the wire boot for starter trigger wire.
Thanks Kevin!
Got that saved to my Favorites.
Jay
Headed back to the estate where this car came out of as the family needs to clean out one of the buildings as the property has sold.
Supposedly still alot of 50/60s Jag parts there. Ill know more soon. But I may go grab a bunch of stuff before it gets junked. I know there are several boxes marked XK-140.
Post pictures on the XK forum. We can identify the stuff if its XK.
Any luck yet … this is most interesting
Hope you post pics of the jag artifacts
Patiently waiting …
I wont have an update until I am onsite on the 10th and 11th.
-Kev
1000 mile round trip in 48hrs
part haul…
It going to take me a few days to get everything unloaded and sorted. But the back of the Telluride is stuffed with Packard, Jaguar and a few Austin Healy parts.
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When I was picking that estate, I found most of the parts for the top mechanism. Also I found this top boot. It needs to be cleaned up a bit and looks a little deflated without the mechanism underneath it.
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Nice find. Do you have the top or will you have one made or do you care …
I’ll have to have one made. I now have all the metal components for the top assemble, but there is a wooden header bow and some wood b-pillar pieces that have to be made from patterns.
This being a 1937, it still has some wood substructure in the car.
This is one of the b-pillar posts I have to make, and the ash wood I’ve bought to make it from.
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Circling back on my oil filter issue where it hits the vacuum advance, I realize there is an additonal issue. With the inner fenders in place and also how tight it is towards the front of the motor, there is just not room to spin and ratchet or a wrench.
So I think my best option is to convert to a spin on oil filter.
Because my motor is a bit of a hodge podge, i am not sure if is the correct oil filter housing for this 62 3.8L motor.
So i need help.with two things:
-
The correct oil filter adapter for a spin on filter. Hopefully as low profile as possible.
-
the correct gasket between the oil filter housing and the engine. Mine is leaking.
Thanks!
If old profile one is your need, perhaps a modified XJ6 housing with a remote oil filter might be in your offing