The Jackard: A 1937 Packard Convertible with a 1962 Jaguar XK 3.8L motor

Not sure what these SU carbs came off of, but there is for sure some linkage between the carbs that is different then what I have on my HD6 carbs. These came with the pile of british car parts of the estate where the car came from.

Not sure if I can utilize any of these linkage parts with a cable setup.

Something similar to this work would be the best option. It takes a front-to-back motion (relative to the car) and translates that to a pull-up motion.
This is for a Weber carb setup. Many of the SU LBC setups I have seen come in from the top or transversely, which makes me cringe with the sharp angle on the throttle cable where it meets the carb bracket.

Having seen your level of fabrication expertise, I’m sure you’ll come up with the perfect anseer: my only suggestion is to if space allows to use a solid push – pull cable, rather than a little bicycle cable.

I’d probably use a universal LOKAR cable. They come with all the various end bits and can be cut to length.

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I had to run the roll-up door windows back to the place that cut the glass for me last year. The windows are framed on top and back, but the leading edge is not framed as it slides in the division channel. The glass sticks out too much on that leading edge, forcing the entire window assembly backward. This causes a clearance issue with the weather seal channel on the B-pillar that folds up when the convertible top is raised.

When I marked the glass to show them how much to trim, I noticed the amount of glass sticking out on the driver’s side and the passenger was different. So now I have them marked to have a 5/16" stick-out on both. The shop should hopefully have them back to me tomorrow.

I got the windows back from the glass shop. They turned them around in less than 24 hours, so that’s great. I’ll see if I can get back in the car this evening and see if that resolves the fitment issue.

With glass cut to the correct size, I was able to get B-Pillars finally sorted, and the weatherstrip was installed:

The seating position in my car has always been a challenge. As in, I don’t understand how shorter folks could have driven it. It could be a combination of the altered '38 split business coupe seats that are in the car paired with the '37 floor tracks. Also, it has a lot of recline. So I can’t even see the fenders while driving, and I’m 6’4". But looking through some of the Service Letters there are several instances of adjusting the seat height and position using a wood spacer wedge. Packard carried these for order, but also provided dimensions for shops to make their own. Also, advising them to use temporary blocks and have the customer sit in the car and make adjustments until the correct seat position was found. Then make the final wedge to the preferred height.

So I made 1" spacer blocks to go in under the rear of the tracks. This dramatically changed the recline angle to something way more standard/comfortable. But this left a large gap between the back of the seat and the wooden package shelf/bulkhead when the seat was all the way back. So, I moved the tracks back several inches and drilled new holes through the floor 1.5" thick wooden floor. The existing holes were not original as the floor had been replaced in the recent past, and when it was done, someone used those woodworking threaded inserts to receive the seat track bolts. Since I was drilling new holes, I elected to use longer and stronger bolts, which were needed anyway in the rear due to the spacer blocks and went all the way through the floor. Then I could use large thick grade 8 fender washers on the underside, which, to me, is infinitely better than those aluminum threaded wood inserts.

Now, I have more legroom and can see the fenders while driving. My wife no longer has to sit on a pile of pillows to see over the dash while driving.