The Jackard: A 1937 Packard Convertible with a 1962 Jaguar XK 3.8L motor

Proof you can polish a turd…

Getting ready to take this car and the '54 to the Packard National show in Wisconsin. I’m sure the '37 will get some interesting attention!

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Did you use Reservatrol?

No. Went ovet the entire car with 300 grit paper to level the paint, rust and crust. Then copious Prep-All to remove all the dirt.

Then just two coats of regular paste wax.

When done, I though my arm were going to fall off.

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All your arm… or just the right one?

:stuck_out_tongue_closed_eyes:

Looks great!!! I know your plan is to paint the car, but it sure looks awesome the way it is… :slight_smile:

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She looks great!

I will shed a tear the day you repaint her.

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That just needs a couple of coats of clear, job done.

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I had considered doing that wipe-on clear coat. But no time for that before the this weeks national meet.

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Are you driving both to the meet?

Yes. We are taking both cars. Ill drive the '54 and my wife will drive the convertible. She’s more sun friendly. I’d be a lobster after that long of a drive.

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Getting a ticket and a lecture for having a Jaguar motor in a Packard.

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The bumper looks oddly tilted or is that just the picture. And how much was the fine for having the mismatched motor combo

It just the angle of the shot.

Please tell us that it was for something fun!

The officer was walking around looking at the cars early that morning befoe we all left for an event. One of my Packard buddies said " you should lock him up for putting a Jag motor in a Packard". So Officer being a good sport, posed for the picture.

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If you want to see a quick pass of the 100+ Packards at the meet, here you go:

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Very nice. My first car was a non running 52 Packard 2-door. Unfortunately, it stayed that way.

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The right front fender for sure had a hard life and rear corner was crushed in and torn.

So i pulled it back into shape, ground off the paint and made patch to weld in. This is just to fix structure. The fender still needs a lot of straightening. So just covered the repair in some rattlecan black to ward off rust until im ready to strip and metal finish the entire fender/car.


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Yesterday was a bit of a can of worms day.

Im still getting some oil seapage between the block and the head.

Looking at head nuts, the rear two are missing the their washers. So perhaps those nuts are bottoming and not applying the correct clamping force.

Also some of other washers are mismatched and several of nuts are pretty crusty looking. So I ordered a replacement set of washers (both D and round as needed), and half a dozen new acorn nuts to replace the shabby ones.

Starting in the middle and working out i replaced each washer and nut were applicable and retorqued back to spec.

All was good except for three of them. The studs twisted out with the nuts. Two rear most (the ones missing their washers) came out. But I was able to chuck up the studs in a vice by its shaft and using an impact break lose the stuck nuts. I then cleaned up the threads and used some blue locktite on the lower threads and using some jam nuts was able to reseat those two studs. Also then add the missing washers and new nuts. All good there.

In the front, the second stud back on the left side of the car also twisted out. But that must go through a water passage, as coolant then started to percolate up through the loose stud hole. The upper tank on the Packard radiator sits higher than the motor.

Bigger issue was I think there must be corrosion on the stud shank as even though the stud was loose, I was unable to extract the stud through the head. It kept getting hung up. So with the nut still seized on the stud, and unable to extact it and unable have enough exposed shank underneath the nut to firmly hold to muscle off the nut, I had no choice to but to just reseat the stud as is and leave it.

Another thing I wanted to tackle was the breather. I am getting a fair amount oil from the breather hose.

So I ordered new gaskets and a new breather screen. So I removed the breather and was a little perplexed by what I saw. There was a no screen in there. But instead was a flat plat with two large holes drilled into it. But instead of the plate being oriented so the holes were on top of one another, they were oriented besides each other. So no oil could drain back. Which created a bowl in the lower part of the breather covered which was full of chocolate milk looking oil. As all the oil and water vapor was mixing and condesing there, and eventually overflows both back into the engine and also down the breather pipe. Uggg.

So I replaced that plate with the correct style screen, and fresh gaskets.

After seeing that, plus not knowing is that stud that was leaking coolant had now leaked coolant into somewhere it shouldn’t have, indesided and oil change was called for.

So far so good. Still a little seepage at the head below the rear exhaust manifold. Ill run it through a few heat cycles and then recheck the torque on all the nuts.

I think that second stud from the front left is the one with a larger diameter at the head/block interface that serves to locate the head on the block. Any slight damage (like head washer compression of the upper head surface) can make that stud difficult to extract. Have had to use a slide puller before on that one. I also think it does not go through a water passage, but will say it’s been awhile since I’ve had a head off a short stud XK engine.

Once you’ve run the car through a few heat cycles, It would not hurt to to retorque the head again.

Don’t know of a 3.8 with a stud going through the water jacket, hope you haven’t got a head gasket problem there.