So I’ve been having the throttle stick on my 68 FHC, and today I went to see what the issue was. I found the end of the horizontal throttle rod that goes from the firewall to the carbs and is supposed to be captured by a bracket w/ bushing secured to the firewall. The rod is not in the bushing/ bracket but free floating. This rod is probably about 10" long, with one end against the firewall and the other against a boss on the intake manifold, where it connects to another rod that travels below both Stromberg carbs.
It appears that the rod is sandwiched between the bulkhead and the intake manifold and that I need to take the intake manifold off in order to get this rod inserted into the firewall mount! Yikes. I thought I might be able to remove the bracket from the firewall, as it is held on by two bolts, but one bolt is underneath the windshield wiper motor.
Bob, My '69 is a little different from your '68. Can you remove one bracket bolt, loosen the other, & pivot the bracket? Maybe a picture? There has to be a better way than pulling the intake, I HOPE.
Also how are your engine mounts, as they control the fit of this part of the linkage. Tom
If you’ll post photo I’ll try and suggest something. If it’s really as dire as you’re saying and it’s impossible to turn the bracket nut, then loosening the 4 bolts on the wiper motor is a lot easier than removing the manifold. I still don’t understand how the throttle can be working at all if the end of that rod isn’t currently captured in that pivot bushing. It’s the resistance that changes a pushing motion into a rotational motion.
That can’t be right, surely! If I understand your question properly, you should be able to remove the rod at the forward end. You probably have to undo the fastener that engages the front rod to so so. I mean the one circled below:
That rod you mention is #12 in the below picture. You can disconnect the lower end of the rod part #4 from #12 and then remove the bolt and nut #11 ( small working space, but doable).
Bracket #14 is held to the bulkhead by two bolts. Remove them and you should be able work the rod #12 out. BTW, it looks to me like the illustration has part #14 reversed; it should be situated as per David’s picture above.
The end of the rod nearest the bulkhead fits in the bushing #13 which in turn fits into the hole in bracket #14.
To assemble I fit #13 into #14 and slide the bulkhead end or rod #12 into the bushing. I then work that assembly into position and install the bolt #11 and secure the bracket #14 to the bulkhead with two bolts and lock washers. Note that bracket #14 has slotted holes that allow for some adjustment to ensure the red #12 is aligned with the rest of the linkage under the manifold.
Ah that’s different from the 3.8. On the early cars there is no fastener between the front and back rods. The rear one has a permanent dowel on it that engages with the fork, and you have to pivot it into place. So the rear bracket must come off or the whole front linkage has to be removed. I still don’t understand how it’s working at all if it isn’t engaged with that rear bushing. I’d think it would just flop around.
Thanks for the photo David. That is how mine looks. I’ll give that a try. My carbs are on so getting to that connection will be tricky. Worse case I pull the rear carb…
Erica, it sort of still works, I’m guessing because there is still downward pressure to cause it to rotate, while the front end is held in place by connection to the forward rod? I can assure you it’s definitely a bit wonky.
just did this yesterday. i could remove the brackets 2 bolts, using a 1/4 drive ratchet and a short extension, without removing anything else, the plastic bushing fell apart, found that if you leave the right bolt loose and the left bolt off, you can turn up the bracket and the rod will just slip into the bushing and then turn into place and bolt her down.
use a 4inch extention on a 1/4 drive ratchet. had to get left hand in between hoses and turn with right hand, not real easy but not as bad as a starter motor
It’s an interference fit, with some red loctite and a couple of screws for insurance.
Edit:: I finally got to take a ride after installing this bearing. Big improvement! Throttle is more responsive and smoother. Idle is lower, and idles at a consistent rpm regardless of temperature.
I’m speculating that the old plastic bushing was getting soft and grippy when it got warm. Two thumbs up on this mod!
I got a new bulkhead linkage bracket from Moss Motors today to replace my existing one which was rusty. However, where my existing bracket had the two holes on different levels, the one from Moss has them at the same level. Any issues with using the Moss one? (pics of one like the one I took off of my car):
When my original bushing failed I fabricated a new one. It was made from a Teflon plumbing valve seat.
It has been so long ago, believe I used epoxy to hold it in place? Has lasted almost 50 years.
Glenn
