Throttle pedal install on new floors

The new floors I just installed on my S2 did not come with 1/4-28 weld nuts to mount the throttle pedal. It looks like one gets buried inside the floor rail with one just outside the rail on the edge of the foot well. Is that correct? Anyone have any tips for installing the one inside the rail?

Also, would the nut inside the rail prevent the LH engine frame from sliding in far enough into the rail to install it? It looks like it would be very close. I’d check the last one myself but I don’t have my engine frames here.
Thanks
Anthony

1 Like

Morning Anthony,
If I were doing this again I would use a ‘rivnut’ for this application.
http://tinyurl.com/hcwwd67
Cheers,
Lynn

Good suggestion Lynn but there are 3/8" dia holes already punched in the floor. rivnuts would likely fall through. I guess they forgot to install the weld nuts at the factory the day they made my floors. And wouldn’t you know it, I just noticed them missing when I went to dry fit the throttle pedal.
Anthony 69 OTS

You are correct, one inside the rail the other right between the rail and
the floor pans. If your floor is in then your choices are limited. I
cut the replacement floor back on the bench, created a patch with the
welded nut then welded the patch back onto the floor. You can get a nut
on inside the floor rail with a bit of a struggle, before installing the
engine frames of course. You might have to use long needle nose pliers to
hold the nut inside the frame. As to whether it interferes with the
engine frame, it should not - if it were a welded nut it would be in just
the same place… Problem with this of course is that if the pedal comes
loose at some point you would have to drop the engine and remove the frame
to tighten it back up.

John North
S2 Coupe
S1 Roadster

If you’re not too worried drill a larger hole in the rail from the bottom up to set a nut, then just rubber plug it.

Thanks John and Martin, great suggestions. I can tell you both appreciate the problem! I have gone ahead and welded the nut on the outside of the floor rail below it’s pre-punched hole in the floor. That one’s a no-brainer. The one that’s inside the frame rail will be a challenge. I’ll have to somehow offer it up through the front rail opening just past where the engine frame will end, position it under the pre-punched 3/8" hole in the floor, hold it there, and tack weld it to the floor from the top side. Trouble is I’m not confident enough with my welding abilities to work from the top side without accidentally filling in the nut with weld. With that nut held against the 3/8 hole, there’s not much to weld to from the top side.

I will give both of your suggestions some thought and see what I can come up with. If I’m successful, I’ll post my solution with some pictures. I’m sure others have struggled with this in the past.
Thanks
Anthony 69 OTS

Anthony,Would it be sacrilege to suggest that you mount yr new fittimgs to a small plate and weld that onto the top of the floor !! . I never plucked up the courage to weld upwards,and never even tried! We won’t tell anyone whats beneath the carpet.

This is what I’ve come up with and I’ve posted some pictures with text.
The problem is shown in the last photo… Before I weld it, does anyone know if the engine frame will clear this makeshift weldnut I fabricated? If I had my frames here I’d try a dry fit. Unfortunately they are in storage 130klms away.
Thanks
Anthony 69 OTS

Hi John, Good point! I actually thought of that and it’s a very good idea. Still with that method I’m concerned about the fitment of the engine frame in the floor rail. Anything in that floor channel looks to me like it would prevent the engine frame from fitting. Maybe I’m worried about nothing?
But without my new or old rails here to check for a dryfit, I’m reluctant to weld it in place. I don’t want to screw this up! My need to save space and store “offsite” has come back to bite me!
Thanks
Anthony 69 OTS

Hi;
I have my 69 apart right now, the engine frame is just a tube dropping back at an angle at that point, so it sticks further into the frame rail at the bottom. As long as your “nut” is behind the edge of the metal above the frame rail you will be fine.
Dave


Anthony;
This is a photo of new subframes. You can see the two pieces that attach to the bottom frame rail of the tub. They are sitting on the 2X4 pieces. As Dave mentions they should clear your ‘welded captive nut’ as they are at an angle and are not ‘pushed in’. On the right side you can see the ‘back’ hole, the front one is hard to see.
This is a picture from the opposite side, not much different.
Hope this helps.

Regards, Joel.

Hi Joel and David. Great help! I see exactly what you both mean, and seeing these photos I can now remember what mine look like and how they are offered up to the floor rails.

Thanks for taking the time to post those photos Joel. It all makes sense. I’ll get started on plug welding my weld nut and move on!

Really appreciate the help.

Anthony 69 OTS

Boy, I wish I had found this thread several months ago while the car was still at the body shop. Alas…

Here is my question: Should the right hand captive nut have been fitted in the hole shown in this photo? Basically, I’m trying to ensure that the pedal is mounted in the correct spot.

My plan is to drill the right hole to 10mm and mount an 8mm Rivnut (my rails are installed and the car has been painted


) and drill and bolt the left. Does anyone have a better idea?

Folks - please let me resurrect this thread.

I have the same situation as Angus’s picture above - new floorboards, a single hole like pictured, and rails already installed (66 FHC as well)

  • any recommendations ?

I’m not familiar with Rivnuts?

Thanks in advance,
Nick

Nick, It turns out the hole in my picture is the right-hand hole of the throttle pedal (while facing the front of the car). I ended up drilling a hole to the left and mounting a rivnut. So far so good, but I’ve not yet driven the car, so…

They are like wall plugs, they deform to grip the steel floor.

Thanks Angus and Robin - I’ll look into the Rivnuts, found a u-tube video from Pete’s Garage - looks pretty straightforward… Thanks Nick