THrottle stuck wide open

Saloons
1

This happened last year in Yellowstone and I greased some of the linkages and now the problem has reoccurred. With the car on a lift about 2 feet in the air we used a floor jack to gently lift upwards on the bell housing thinking that the rear engine stabilizer might be worn. The engine came up about an inch. This would be a bear to change without removing the hood and in common Jaguar form, just pulling the engine!!

I used a tooth brush to thoroughly clean all linkage connects and then applied white lithium grease spray and the movement does seem better. I will retain the hillbilly fix of having a rope around the bottom of the gas pedal to pull upwards in case it sticks again. Motor mounts are 2 year old higher quality units but the rear stabilizer is 10 years old. A note on the E type list mentions adding a shim under the right motor mount; thoughts??

Gerard

There are so many complex angles to this system that I am sure the British were trying for the lets make it impossible to work on award! It’s a 1966 3.8 MK2 with dual SU’s

Gerard

2

The shim under the engine mount is due to the proximity of the picture frame to the SU linkages, not applicable to the saloons.

3

Assuming your problem is linkage trouble and not throttle plates jamming in the carb bores.

Then examine / check and lubricate the shaft BUSHES that support the throttle cross shaft. That is the shaft from the pedal to the side of the bulkhead, through which it passes. The bush at the pedal end tends to seize on the shaft and tries to rotate with the shaft. Ensure those bushes are free.

4

There does appear to be some side to side play in the shaft from the pedal going into the bulkhead. He thoroughly cleaned all of the linkages connections and Might even spray them with carb cleaner and re-lube them.

Is this a area that, if lubed would weep onto the surrounding carpet causing a stain?

Gerard

5

In the instance of throttle sticking at wide open.

you can disconnect the carb linkages from the pedal linkages,
and see if there is any sticking at WOT in the pedal section (there was in my case)

you can also add another return spring…a short strong one that only activates very near WOT.
takes a bit of fiddling to get right, (it is connected by a steel wire) and you can feel the extra spring return pedal pressure at that point only