I recall that when I first worked on mine it looked like there was not enough room for useful travel - yet in the end it was just fine. I don’t have a measurement handy but this is how it looks:
DONT reinstall the engine until you proven the clutch is operating correctly. You can do this by simply using a lever (big screwdriver) in the clutch fork, having first put it in gear. Have a friend turn the gearbox output flange etc etc. It should be a definitive test.
Yes,
I plan on running the engine on the test stand I just made.
I want to make sure all of the leaks are solved before reinstalling
I really haven thought of a easy and fast way to pressurize the slave cylinder yet to test the clutch disengagement.
The original issues which lead me to removing the engine were a ton of leaks and all kinds of shifting issues which I posted about and got some advise on solving them.
Anyone have any suggestions On a fast and easy hydraulic test setup.
Thanks
Lee
Kirbert
(Author of the Book, former owner of an '83 XJ-S H.E.)
6
As I recall from my fiddling, 1/2" seemed to be the magic number. It seemed to be the distance most TOB’s need to travel.
Typically the TOB will move forward about 3/8" from first contact to disengage the clutch. The fork is longer from the pivot to the slave attachment point than it is from the pivot to the TOB, to give it some mechanical advantage, so the former will move further than 3/8"
