Throw out Bearing fork

I am getting close to reinstalling my engine and I have a question about the TOB arm travel.

How much distance does the TOB arm need to move to disengage the Clutch.

I only have about 1/2” of distance for the arm to travel before it hits the end of the bell housing opening.

The TOB and arm are new ant the TOB looks to be correct from past post on TOB.
The old arm had a bend in it possibly to allow for more travel .

I am using a Aluminum Flywheel and was thinking the the thickness in less then the original.

Any thoughts
70 4.2

I recall that when I first worked on mine it looked like there was not enough room for useful travel - yet in the end it was just fine. I don’t have a measurement handy but this is how it looks:

Mine looks about the same
We will see

DONT reinstall the engine until you proven the clutch is operating correctly. You can do this by simply using a lever (big screwdriver) in the clutch fork, having first put it in gear. Have a friend turn the gearbox output flange etc etc. It should be a definitive test.

I plan on running the engine on the test stand I just made.
I want to make sure all of the leaks are solved before reinstalling
I really haven thought of a easy and fast way to pressurize the slave cylinder yet to test the clutch disengagement.

The original issues which lead me to removing the engine were a ton of leaks and all kinds of shifting issues which I posted about and got some advise on solving them.

Anyone have any suggestions On a fast and easy hydraulic test setup.


As I recall from my fiddling, 1/2" seemed to be the magic number. It seemed to be the distance most TOB’s need to travel.

Typically the TOB will move forward about 3/8" from first contact to disengage the clutch. The fork is longer from the pivot to the slave attachment point than it is from the pivot to the TOB, to give it some mechanical advantage, so the former will move further than 3/8"

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Wise words: that was SOP, for me, on any clutch job.