Why I prefer needle nose pliers.
Did you remove the nut and washer and serrated plate?
The gear is a good fit on the eccentric so either the plate or the flat on the pin are worn. Why don’t you just make a video and show us. Besides, the gears will turn very quickly whether the cams are connected or not. I tried it yesterday. Either you have tension on the chain, or not. Where does it stop moving?
Hi Phillip…l mentioned ages ago either in this thread or one of your others to check the flat on the serated adjuster they can wear and allow movement between itself and the flat of the eccentric cam…I also mentioned that some of the adjuster tools had prongs that were too long and prevented full movement of the adjuster…Steve
Confusion : is this resolved or not ?
Marco
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The answer is sort of. As described earlier, I am unable to turn eccentric adjuster plate or shaft enough so intermediate gear engages the top timing chain. So finally I used a big screw driver and hammer to bang on the idler gear and physically force it down. Success as intermediate gear engaged chain and the top chain rotates when I rotate chank.
But one achievement leads to another problem. The idler gear is so far down that the chains are too tight When I rotate the idler gear shaft back only about 10 degrees, the chain disengages. I have repeated this back and forth several times and always with a tiny rotation of the idler gear shaft, the top chain goes from too loose to too tight and vice versa
Why is the adjuster so sensitive? It doesn’t make sense. And since this is essentially a new issue, I have started a new post to ask what I am doing wrong.
Phil… is there anyone near you, with experience with these engines, who can take a look at it?