I’m not a wire wheel expert. All I know is that on E-Types it’s hard to remove a rear wire wheel if it is too wide or has the wrong offset as it needs to come a bit of a distance straight off to clear the male threaded hub. For the way we use our E-Type speed rating is not relevant. The heavier steering of the 205/70’s similarly isn’t a concern in country and suburban driving.
I claim, without real proof, that the low unsprung weight of our mini-lite set up very much improves the way the car feels, as the tail doesn’t wag the dog.
I had Michelin Harmony 205/70 on chrome wires and just a few weeks ago replaced them with Vredestein 185/VR 15 on a set of 5” Borrani wires, and the car is delightfully different.
I’m searching for the right word, haven’t quite found it, but will go with “agile”. It definitely feels different, in a better way.
I would go with ‘nimble’ or perhaps ‘spritely’. Anyway, I like 'em.
Our wires normally take tubes but the wheel can be sealed (by manufacturer or owner) to allow the use of a tubeless tire.
My understanding is that when using a tube one should lower the speed rating by one letter.
to be “clear” …pun intended…if the road is “clear” free of State/County/City chain/snow tire controls (signed or restricted by law)…then in nearly all cases any tire could be used, tho if cold use of a “summer” tire will destroy it…but is not illegal. When snow tire, winter tires, tire with the new snowflake on the sidewall is required…then of course…the summer tire or any non-winter snow tire will be illegal. So if by "winter CONDITONS is meant snow /ice to where snow tires are required…then OK. I have found no US jurisdiction where restrictions exist all winter , no matter the road surface conditions…Some specific mountain routes may require “have snow tires and or carry chains”. in winter months. Quebec requires snow tires in winter. The important issue for “{summer tires” is that they WILL be damaged beyond safe use in very cold temperatures (25F or so and below) …even to the extent if inflated with weight on them or if moved at all. Read up…
Nick
I really appreciate all the information provided. It seems that the original size 185-VR15 gets the most votes for the best overall in car handling (except winter/cold issues). The 207 70r15 gets the second most votes but minors mods needed and steering can be harder at low speeds. Nobody has mentioned trying any other size. The Vredestein 185/VR 15 are about $150 each (I need 4 new tires). Are there less expensive options besides the 205’s? I am not finding other options.
Universal used to offer their Universal Sport, a knock-off of the Dunlop Aquajet. Last I know they weren’t a lot less than what the Vreds cost now.
i believe the universal sport was a copy of the dunlop sp sport found on series 2 and 3 E’s.
Yes, and on their website they’re now $193. Wow. But they now are made in the US, while the set I bought over 20 years ago were made in Mexico.
How does it damage them? Cracks the rubber or something?
I presume all you E-type owners are into keeping your cars close to stock, but the guys at Factory Five came up with a nifty way to add power steering to cars with non-power steering racks. They use an electric power steering unit from a Chevy minivan of some sort, and install it directly behind the dashboard on a Cobra replica or the like so it’s not readily visible in the interior or in the engine compartment. The unit wants a speed signal, but there’s an outfit online that offers a little black box that provides the needed signal. The simple version just has a knob on the dash, dial in the amount of steering boost you desire. A fancier version actually provides a speed signal so you get less boost as you speed up.
Of course, you might need to upgrade your alt to keep up with the load.
that is a bit of a route down a slippy slop. modifying a car more, to counter act the derogatory effects of an earlier modification.
I don’t know if it is cheaper to retrofit 185 section tyres to over come the unpleasant steering issue that it is caused by wrong sized tyres than it is to fit powersteering. but i do know it is better to put a car back to standard than to continue spoiling the handling by adding more unesecary uncomplimentary tech.
I agree there are some clever powers steering kits about, but that only resolves the heavyness of the steering, not the slower turn in and vaguer, more numb feeling that is part of the less progressive handling.
when you have fitted some over sized tyres and it doesn’t feel as nice to drive, go back to the way it should be instead of burying your head and continuing to make it worse.
In the States the Cinturato comes from here https://www.lucasclassictires.com/185VR15-PIRELLI-CINTURATO-CA67-510p.htm don’t just buy on price. get tyres that look and drive the best.
On the subject of inner tubes, i have never herd it said that fitting an inner tube negates speed ratings.
I would say that you should always fit inner tubes in wire wheels. We say this because of the amount of failures we have come accross with failed seals on so called tubeless wire wheels.
I hope this is helpful https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kWJ-tWP3iU0
My guess that the concerns about inner tubes may have come from modern tyre companies fitting tubes in tyres that are less than 70% profile which shoud not be done.
I don’t need power steering. All I’m saying is the obvious - fatter tires feel heavier in slow, tight situations. Heavier is just a fact - TOO heavy is a different issue. The way we drive our car, yes, the steering is “heavy” in very slow, tight situations. Too heavy - “no”, in our case. Old guys wheel E-Types around in these parking lot competitions and don’t get heart attacks, so “heavy” is very subjective at one end while being a reality as an artifact of physics.
As I once remarked on this topic I have a built in fear that specialty tires, even of name brand, have the stink of reproduction parts on them. There can be no real proof that these odd (now, in 2019) tires are made with the science and care that more mainstream sizes are produced. No way are Pirelli (sp?) and Michelin are going to say “Well we just brewed up some old crap 'cause a few guys wanted them”. Maybe they are great, but I’ll go with tires made in a modern factory by guys who are afraid of lawsuits, and consequently take some extra care when they make them. Of course I very well may be wrong, but real testing of these “reproductions” is lacking. I do recall the red line reproductions were given a somewhat involved test and came up sorely wanting.
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Agreed: Tweety was shod with 205/60s, and yes, at low speeds–1-5 mpg–the steering was heavier.
When I initially put 215/50s on it, the increased effort was not worth the effort, and the car’s capability, as configured for street, was not worth the increased effort.
Above that, the effort was not noticeable, and the increased capabilities at upper envelope of handling was worth that extra effort.
Plus, the wider tires and wheels, IMHO, made the car look less pinched-In.
Same deal
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re the question …how does cold-sub freezing…damage “summer tires”…I urge an on line look with that topic…you will find it stated that sub freezing some summer tire compounds become like formica.(slippery-brittle) .and also that cracks will develop that make the tire unsafe, unuseable, damaged, even if inflated and moved at all, or with weight on them.: …there are some who think…ha…just a trick to sell more tires…which is why I say: …look it up…multiple sources…Tire manufacturers, Tire Rack, Mobil 1 oil, …many more.
There has been some real testing done on Classic Porsche tyres and Pirelli Cinturato won hands down.
On quality control with the better brand names, they have more reputation at stake. Pirelli make F1 tyres. They can’t let anything rubbish out of their shed.
What brand do Jaguar themselves fit to their heritage cars? These heritage cars are there for journalists to drive, so there is no economy there. They fit the best or in some cacses they fit the Dunlop because it was OE.
i can’t understand how you would come to a conclusion that a budget tyre manufacturer will make a better tyre that a top brand manufacturer.
The top brand tyres are made in the best factories, owned by the best tyre manufacturers. Not farmed out to anyone who has the production space. They use the best quality materials because quality is critical to them. Their qualty control is second to none. this is how they get their reputation of being the best manuacturers. This is how they become the manufacturer for F1.
The appearance thing is a wholey different question all together. no one is going to say they like the look of the Vredestein, but the price is good. But if you like the fuller wheel arch look, then thats that. you just have to sacrefice on handling a bit fit a fatter tyre and accept it won’t go round corners as well.
Wiggles by fitting 215/50R15 you have lowered your car by over 1 1/4" so the ride and gearing will not be good, but that lowering will help to keep the foot print on the road a little better. but when it does let go it will be far more dramatic. not the progressive way '60s sports cars are supposed to handle. have you done any other modifications? I would think if you push on in the corners it will be quite scarey. do you get uneven tyre wear? It would be interesting for you to just swap your wheels with a mate with stock wheels and 185R15 Cinturato for an experiment, just to see how much better it is to drive.
The looks are all about personal taste. For me it would be a series 1 with wire wheels. Sorry to say larebob i’m not a fan of Minilites. However i do love the colour of your car
Neither an issue for the limited track use the car saw, after I finished its restoration.
The drop in overall gear ratio was fine, too, with the shorter tracks I ran on. On the street, it did indeed rev higher, but still well within the engine’s capabilities.
I have the training and experience to know of, and to handle, that difference.
Yes: back in the 60s, when the car was raced with 6" Borranis, and the then-huge Goodyear Blue Streak racing tires, the rear bump stops and brackets were removed, the inner wing lip was flattened, and F/R camber was increased, to the maximum allowed by the suspension’s design.
I saw what one might expect: slightly-greater inner tread wear, but not excessive.
I love the looks of a gleaming wire wheel: day-to-day, the Minilite look is equally nice, easier to clean, and it saves a boatload of unsprung weight.
Had I kept the car, I was strongly considering utilizing knockoff Minilite/Panasports.
Perhaps I should have added: The guys building the Factory Five Cobra replicas also use different alignment specs when the car is fitted with power steering. Without power steering, the alignment is optimized to make the car driveable – those Cobra tires are wide and sticky! With power steering, the alignment is optimized for performance.
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Again, thanks to all for the information…and I enjoy the photos. I will need to post one of my car. I am a new owner of a 1970 Jaguar etype OTS…much to learn…but enjoying the ride. It seems that since I have original spoke wheels (5" wide rims) that I need to find the best 185-15 tires I can…this car is my daily driver!! The options seem to be the tires from Sweden V-something, Pirilli (most expensive but of seemingly highest quality, or others? One post mentioned “universal sport”…and I like the look of the white-wall tires!!
If you will indulge me…on another topic…I see cars having snaps for a tonneau cover for use when the top is down My car has no snaps (yet is an original/unrestored car)…did these cars come originally with a tonneau cover or is it an after-market add?