Tremec T5: 5 speed Manual Transmission

gtjoey… are you running 6" x 15". centre laced Daytons on a series one or two ?
Did you remove the rear axel bumper blocks ?
I’m using these wheels on a series two and they give a overall 41/2" wider track
each wheel moves the outside of the rim two and a quarter inches out !
I’m using 215mm 60 profile tires with no problems.

Derek

I’ve been running 6 inch offsets for 30 years

Transforms the car

I will need to buy new rims for my S1 when it is finished so I am interested in what works. Is it correct that you are running 6 inch centre laced rims with 215 60 tires with no interference problems with the fenders or the bump stop? Also do you have splined hubs and if so are there no problems with removing or replacing the wheels?

I used Dayton 6" x 15" centre laced stainless and Crome wire wheels, these wheels stick out 2 1/4" each side more than the stock 5" original wheels on my series 2 XKE.
I removed the rear bump stops and replaced it with a one inch rubber block, I ground the rear fender lip 1/4" at the back edge only the front edge of the rear fender lip has lots of clearance. To remove the rear wheels I have to jack-up the cage with a block of wood
between the pipes and the wheels drop down so I can remove them. I run 215 60series
tires with the car lowered 1" using adjustable shocks/springs rear and adjustable torque reaction plate at the front. Derek

Allthe bodies were different, remember no computers when new…
All of my etypes have 6 inch offsets.
Ive never had a rub but on my red car I did shave the bumpstops down they were close.
My green series 2 I never did anything but it was tight on one outer fender side.
They transform the car.
Good luck.
GTJOEY1314

Offset refers to backspacing of the wheel, which for wire wheels is typically accomplished by either rim lacing or hub lacing. The photos of your red car show wheels with standard rim laced wheels. The wheel width may be 6", but the offset of the wheel itself is likely almost the same as factory spec. This is why the bump stop comes into play with the wider wheel/rubber. With hub laced wheels, the rim is moved outboard, and the fender lip becomes the larger issue as opposed to the bump stops. My car has 6 inch wide, (offset) hub laced wheels. A 205 70 tire clears the bump stops but requires a 1/4" shave on the rear fender arch at the 10 0’clock position.

I read in the archives that you purchased a Tremec T5 from Elite Racing in Mar 2018. Do you have any update on the installation and the performance of the 5 speed. I’m seriously considering purchasing one for my S2 1969 FHC.

Thanks Andy

Per Arne hasn’t posted in a couple of years, hasn’t visited J-L in 1½ years so probably no feedback forthcoming. Too bad, would have been a good long term view.

Andy. I actually ended up going with a four-speed with overdrive but I got out of the old jaguar XKS. Just got it back into the car last week and as a matter fact. Took me a good long year. I can certainly fill you in on the ends and outs of doing this but yeah that’s far I’m pretty happy with the results

Hi guys

I’m still here, I forgot about my promise of reporting back my experience with the T5, thanks for reminding me Andy.

I bought the gearbox from Elite, March 2018 and did the installation together with the Engine rear seal modification. (not a drop of oil since that)

The gear ratio from 1st to fourth is very close to the original box, and that was one of the things that I liked with this box. This ratio combined with the low geared rear 3,54 gives you a pretty good acceleration.

Also the fact the you need no modification to the car, and the shift lever comes up at the exact correct location made me go for just this box.

The installation is an extremely close fit, and I had to bend a little to the sheet metal (did not damage anything) around the box to create a clearing.

You have 2 choices for the 5th gear ratio, .63 and .8, I went for the .63 which is a bit too high for normal roads, but if you stay on speeds above 110 km/h its ok. I think if you stay on roads that suits the E-type best, I would recommend the .8, the best would have been something in between.

I like the guys at Elite, and the Gearbox itself T5 very much, it is quiet and feels modern with its very firm shifting and short movement of the lever. It is pretty expensive but once it is paid for and you forget about it J, you will enjoy it very much, I do not regret the purchase at all, you get to have the quick acceleration along the fun curvy roads, and still have a quiet smooth ride along the long straits. So all in all a very good combination. I have enjoyed it for hundreds of kilometres now, and I am very happy with it. I would do it again J

The best from Norway

Per Arne

4 Likes

Hi Per Arne,

thanks for getting back to me and the forum after a 2 year hiatus. I just checked with Elite and they are still manufacturing the T5 gearbox which is good news.

Thanks for your honest feedback regarding the 0.63 5th gear which maybe a little too high for driving back roads. I’m was leaning towards the 0.80 5th gear which is the same as the O/D on my MGs.

Did you have any problems with the install, did you do it yourself? Where do the mounting kit brackets attach to the underside of the car? Do you have any photos?

Apart from widening the trans tunnel a little were there any other modifications that you made?

Thanks for your feedback on this install.

Andy
CA USA

I have a T-5 with the .73 5th, and find that a very useful OD, but still close enough to 4th that the occasional 5th-4th downshift for overtaking is easy to manage with a modest throttle blip.

Our son and I put a T5 in his Merkur after the C3 blew up. It had the lower 5th, as it was from an SVO Mustang. We needed it because the rear end was an auto ratio and the car wouldn’t pull anything in the 0.70 range. I think the 0.63’s, etc. are bunk, a ratio designed for EPA mpg, not reality. It amazes me that all the T5’s for retro fit are this ratio. After all the effort and expense installing an aftermarket trans, spending for the more “rational ratio” is a no brainer.
Our current '65 Vette with the 365 hp solid lifter mouse motor spins a 3:70 with exactly the same tires as our E-Type. No issue as the mouse will spin till it blows up without complaint.

You might check with E-type Fabs. Their box uses a .73 final ratio. https://www.etypefabs.com

His good reputation may trump the still pretty high ratio - better than 0.63, anyway. I thought guys reported that production of this unit is very limited. Really interested people are best to check with the actual guy.

The .63 OD’s great in the applications for which they were designed…V8’s.

I’ve got T5’s in two V8 cars with .63 OD’s, and 2,000-2,200 rpm on the freeway is a very “real world” engine speed for those cars. They’ll both pull any grade in 5th at legal highway speeds, and even overtake slower traffic without the need for a downshift.

Hi Andy

Actually I took a few pictures during the installation., have to send two mails due to size.

I think the .80 will be the best solution for back roads.

I did it myself, with no problems, it fitted perfectly.

Rear mounting utilizes original bolt holes, nicely. (see pictures)

Except for the tight squeeze, no mods needed

Regards from Norway

Per Arne

Hi Per Arne

thanks for the photos, but the photos 1-4 came through twice and there are no photos 5-8. It appears that the T5 attaches very similar to the T9 that I have in one of my MGs; very straight forward.

You said that you installed a new engine rear seal at the same time and haven’t leaked any oil since then. What type of rear seal did you install and did it require machining of the end of the crankshaft.

Thanks again,
Andy

Med Vennlig Hilsen

Per Arne Braaten



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Andy.Preston
October 14

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Hi Per Arne

thanks for the photos, but the photos 1-4 came through twice and there are no photos 5-8. It appears that the T5 attaches very similar to the T9 that I have in one of my MGs; very straight forward.

You said that you installed a new engine rear seal at the same time and haven’t leaked any oil since then. What type of rear seal did you install and did it require machining of the end of the crankshaft.

Thanks again,
Andy