Thanks for letting me in. Hope I can get a little guidance with the Tremec just recently purchased going into a 1965 mk2.
I got the whole package put together. I’m a down below person as I have access to a two post lift. The subframe is out of the way ready for a rebuild too so there is plenty wiggle room.
The gearbox is a Tremec with the long tail housing on the back and a flange for the drive shaft.
However, I noticed when lowering the body that a little trimming of the tunnel was required above the original hole so that the stick area was not jammed up under the tunnel. With this out the way the next issue was discovered.
The gearbox is so long that 5"of the tail housing extend beyond the crossmember that traverses the car. Surely I should not be chopping away at the frame with these conversion kits?
Unfortunately the supplier is closed in the UK because of the Covid crisis.
Even if the crossmember was chopped and raised and I could level out the engine more, the flange would be sitting very high up.
As it sits at present, the rear engine mount on the bulkhead is sitting on barely a couple of turns of the nut. Engine is not pulled up anywhere near high enough at the rear because of the lack of space issue with this box.
As I am not so great at explain things, I’ll post a couple of photos when I figure out how!
Wow, one more exciting thread to follow !
I won’t be of help with tailhousing collision as I chose the short (S10) T-5 version for my project, but I’d love to hear what’s Your clutch of choice.
I used an original mustang WC T5 for my 65 mk2. Full build thread is here:
I lifted the trans as much as it would go until it almost contacted the trans tunnel. The shifter housing sticks up through the floor. But the result is the engine does tilt down toward the back now, it isn’t level.
Not sure I completely understand your situation but take a look at my thread and see if it provides any clarity!
Thanks for the info. I did cut the upper area of the tunnel so the stick housing would have room, but the back end of the tail housing is the problem. It goes way past the crossmember going across the floor. It extends a good five inch or more past this.
I can’t lift the transmission any higher because it’s stuck under the crossmember, the rear engine/firewall mount is only held onto to the nut by a couple of threads because the engine is so low at the rear!!
Someone asked about the clutch setup. I went with a 9.5" clutch, pressure plate with a thrust pad and a roller release bearing instead of the old type carbon pad. The release bearing had to be resized (on lathe) to give the clutch fork more room for travel.
And just for comparison here is a shot of my full syncho gearbox with “compact” type overdrive just removed from my 3.8S for an engine overhaul. Even with the OD, the entire unit is much shorter. Mark II cars may be different however. Does Tremec make a unit with a shorter tail housing?
I used the full size mustang one, so the length is probably the same but the shifter is 6 inches farther back. I’m not sure what you mean by the crossmember. I took out the trans mount and made a new one that goes under the tail housing. Maybe my car is different as it used to be an automatic, which has a larger trans tunnel? My engine rear mount is fully installed and threaded, the engine tilts back maybe 10-20*.
Yes I believe there are two tremec kits for the Jags, one has a shorter back end and one longer. The latter was recommended to me.
Theo, crossmember is probably a bad word. I’m referring to the piece of box section that goes along the floor from side to side inside the car. Without remove the seat and all the carpet, I assumed this was structural before I start hacking away at it🤔
The tremec kit I have has drive gear adapter for the speeso and also an electronic option. Latter I will just leave dangling to the side. The adapter is made to fit the stock speedo cable/thread… i think! I will check it tomorrow. I never got as far as that because the space issue has me puzzled.
Your T-5 tailhousing is a S10 version, i.e. front shifter location.
What pressure plate are You using for clutch ? A direct fit to flywheel 9.5" diaphragm for Jaguar ?
What is Your non-carbon release bearing ?
Are you thinking about this as the ‘crossmember’? Mine bent up and over the tunnel… but I cut it out anywhere because the shifter came up right through it.
Unless your photo shows the seat far forward it seems that your shifter location is going to be quite awkward. This photo shows a 3.8S with the seats fully back.
There are several Tremecs that have different shifter locations, believe one can have options to get shifter in more correct location?
Options on Tremec for early C1 Corvettes can get the shifter exactly in original location. Slight offset to right and exactly where original was, no cutting.
John
The passenger seat is a bit far forward in this picture. The shifter is a bit farther back than stock but I love it. It’s a very short throw shifter and a short handle, in the perfect position for me.
All XK engines slope down slightly but not 20 degrees.
The bulkhead attachment is NOT an engine mount, it is merely a stabilizer. Tightening it to pull the engine up will probably end up damaging the bulkhead attachment like on E-types. Slight caveat since it’s ten years since I has my Mk2 but I believe it’s the same idea.
I have the GM T-5 in an E:type and love the shifting. I have a Tremec im an Iso Grifonand don´t like the sfifting. 1st, 3rd and 5th are too close and the shifting is very crude/harsh.
