Thanks exactly what I needed. Thank you!
You also want to pay close attention to how to effect an emergency open of the boot lid when that cable breaksâŚ
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Is that weâre the hole is added where the plate goes? Watched a video on that.
Thanks for the reminder.
In case it helps here is pic looking up and under the dash at the map light and purple and purple/white wire on my '68 FHC. My map light comes on when doors are open.
David
68 E-type FHC
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BTW, looks like you installed mat material on the back off the boot. did you install it anywhere else back there?
I used the Noico mat in lieu of the thicker horsehair mat Jag used (non-stock but covered up). I glued the hardura directly to the Noico mat. I also used the Noico mat to cover the boot floor after primer but before paint to closely simulate the tar type mat that Jag used and to help with noise and drumming. I then seam sealed the edges prior to paint.
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Thank you David. 
I always put a washer under a nut/bolt for several reasons but in this case the best reason is not damaging the paint and creating a point for rust to start. Any standard washer of the correct I.D. should work but I like stainless hardware in non-load bearing applications. A drop of blue Loctite on the threads during assembly will keep everything together.
I imagine that the nut and washer are all part of the same assembly BD.27158 (Wilmot Breedon 7/35089).
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Nicole, there are inexpensive devices available on Amazon that will convert 35mm negatives or slides to jpg files.
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Not sure what bracket youâre referring to but my photo above is Series 1.5 OTS. You should be able to replace the missing stud using epoxy so you donât ruin the paint. Hopefully you have some touch up paint but this is behind the licenses plate so not completely necessary.
The boot lock bracket. Sorry I didnât clarify.
Yes, we have touch up paint thankfully.
Some more details from the truck. https://youtu.be/xZ8OwOjGvWE
Got then release cable washer/bolt on.
Some pictures of the gas tank area as well.
Are the wires correctly set up? Seems like that amount of bend in the wire is not desirable.
I agree that the wire routing is not optimal. Note that the six screws holding the fuel level sender to the tank should have two copper washers under each bolt head. Garage Smell from Car Since thatâs the case, Iâd remove the sender, flip it 180 degrees, and reinstall it with two copper washers per bolt and using a good non-hardening gas compatible sealer on the gasket. If not concerned and itâs not weeping gas you could adhesively secure the wiring harness to the tank to give some strain relief. I just did mine last weekâŚ
Crappy aftermarket sender but the only one available that I could findâŚ
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Thank you. Are the copper washers one large and one small?
Also in the video I posted, there seem to be wire âendsâ hanging where the antenna and other wires enter close to the gas filler area. Is that normal?
So glad to have eyes in this project as referencing the books is not always giving me the information I need.
Per the parts list they are the same part number, so both small.
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Candiece have you located the body tag number plate for your car ? I am not too sure if the OTS location is different but the body tag on my Feb '68 FHC is under the license plate in the area similar to your photo. Just a thought in case this is something you want to look for while you are in the trunk/boot area. This thread has a photo and talks some about body tags.
https://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?t=1997
David
Based on their colors (Iâm guessing on the colors) that the Green/brown wire is to go to the reverse light and the Purple wire is really purple/green and goes to the interior light at the back of the cabin.